Installing a Intelliframe in the Z-grip.

[Rrok]

My dad and I are trying to figure out how we can do this, I've seen some pictures of a Z-grip with an Intellifeed out there but I'm not sure how they set it up. Does anyone have some pictures of the frame internals to help? Does the sear hit the microswitch to activate the revvy? One more thing, on the circuit board without a regulator where does the white wire connect?

Thanks for your help,

Rrok

[Xzion]

Try using the search function next time, below is a link to a thread regarding installing a Microswitch into a Z-Grip, enjoy.

Z-Grip Intellifeed Setup (http://www.automags.org/ubb/Forum1/HTML/005667.html)

[Rrok]

Sorry about that! I'm usually good about searching before I post too. Thanks a lot though!

Rrok

[magmanpaintball]

is there a slot up there where u can put it up there cause there was a thread where he showed how to do it.

[X-Plosive]

Well I just put the finishing touches on my z-grip/intellifeed. I use an old revvy without the suboard. I will go step by step for you.

Materials

1/8 phono jack (female)
1/8 phono plug, prefrabricated or you can just buy the ends and use your own wire. It should have two terminals.
Wire stripper/cutters
Heatshrink
Flux Resin
Soldering iron/gun
Solder I prefer the one in a tube with a feeder
28 guage wire (red and green preferable)
Electrical tape
Lever Microswitch


These Instructions have only been tested on revvies withOUT the sunboard

1) First focus on mounting the switch in your frame. You will first need to measure the depth of your frame where the sear sits. In pencil draw a horizntal line on the outside of the frame. The place the sear and seat it properly. Vertically draw another line. Then put the microswitch at the back of the frame vertically. You will most likely need to cut off a little bit of the lever at the end for it it is too long. Make sure the END of the leaver is facing towards the rail. Now push it almost all the way back but leave a 2 millimeter gap( for the electrical tape and wire). Then draw another vertical line on the outside of the frame right where the microswitch ends. You should have about a 1 centimeter gap between both vertical lines. That gap tells you where you need to start drilling the hole. Drille the hole BIT by BIT SLOWLY!!! Have one man drilling and then another making sure it is at the right angle and centered. Use a center ounch to mark the plave you are drilling. Before drilling also draw another line on the outside showing you the path the hole will take. Make sure you don't drill the hole into the grip screw threads. One you make the hole take your phono plug. Cut one end off and then measure about 1 ft and a half. Split the two wires and then strip them. Rune the wire up the hole. Connect 1 wire to the 1 st terminal on the microswitch and one to the second terminal. When I say I 1st I mean the one closest to the front of the microswitch where the leaver is closest to the black shell. You want to wrap the stripped portion of the wires on to the terminals then heat shrink them or wrap them in electrical tape. I personally reccomending soldering them on and then heatshrinking them. Then wrap 2 pieces of tape around all 3 terminals of the microswitch. Wrap tape around the sides as well. Put one wire on the left side of the switch and one on the right. The switch should now be seated firmly in the frame. Remember the switch is Vertical. Then take a drill bit and set it parallel to the Hogue gripsat the top right corner. Start drilling a channel or notch deep enough so some of the wire can fit in. You may also use a utility knife and cut a "V" into it like Mr. Kaye. I reccomend buying a 90* adapter for your plug so that it is a smaller target.

2) We will now move on to your hopper. Take the female ohono jack and place it in a relatively free spot in your hopper. I believe I placed mine in the area that said "iew" of the "View Loader " logo. Inside the shell it is up in that little corner where there should be a circle protruding because of the mold. Place it as far up in that corner as possible and bend the 3rd terminal upward a little so that they are all basically pointing up. This will allow it to get closer to the corner. Next you want to take a pencil or white out and make a circle around the area the circular part of the phono jack touches the plastic on. Then check this SEVERAL times OVER AND OVER again to make sure it will not intefrfere with anything. Not put all the parts of the hopper back together and leave the jack in. See if the jack is able to stay in that spot without interfereing with the servo motor. You can never be too sure. Then when you are ready drill the proper size hole in that circle. I reccomend a pilot hole and then slowly step it up. You may then get a round file and file out the circle and the edges. Now place the switch on there and put the locking nut on to make sure it fits properly. Take it back off and begin your wiring. Get a green wire and strip both ends then put it on the 1st terminal of the jack. DO NOT SOLDER YET. Then get the other end and measure out enough to connect that end to the infra red eye. You will be connecting on to the gold elbow which the ribbon belt connects to. Make sure you connect it to the gold elbow that the other green wire connects to. I would connect the wire between the 90 * elbow and the circuit board. Then connect a red wire to the 3rd terminal of the jack which will be the one you bent upward. Strip it and connect it. Make sure that none of the stripped portion of the wire makes contact with any other gold elbows. This red wire will go from the third terminal and then lead to the circuit board that houses the LED and switch. It will lead to the gold prong that the other red wire connects to. Once again connect it half way between the elbow and the plastic housing. Put all the electronic parts back and make sure they fit well. Then take each part out one by one and solder these 4 new connections. I am very sprry about the spelling but ohh well deal with it. If you have any other questions ask me. Tom has done it a different way and honestly I would be afraid to strip too deap and actually cur the wires apart. Then you would have to resolder them and may even have to replace them. Its a little different and a little harder for me that way. However my way you must make sure that no wires touch any other contacts than the ones intended. Then just reassemble the revvy and plug in the wire. You are now done. I reccomend doing this intellifeed over the course of 4-7 days.

[Rrok]

You answered all of my questions!!

Rrok

[X-Plosive]

Remember take your time and measur several times. Mark out everything before you start working. When soldering make sure you have the wires going to the proper places and that they are not in the way of anything. You are welcome and I only postsed this because no one else was going to offer you this help. Magc68 is great but he didn't give me very good detail.