need a carbon dating, on this autococker

[Chingis]

Howdy all

Welp one of my long time friends has given up the sport and retiered his ancient Autococker to me, its not a bad marker but needs some work , and honestly im not even sure of the year on this thing. ill try and get a pic of it posted later.
here is the serial # on it 21297, got a guess on the year ?

as it sits right now it leaks air from the LPR hole when gassed up
im going to try and get this old beast up and running, if anyone has some old stock or non stock cocker parts to help me with this adventure , leave a message or shoot me a PM , im looking for extremely cheap parts till i get it running and then ill go from there.

ty very much for any help you may give with my new project



sure am glad i got my RTC its SOoooooooo much easier to work on , even with the lvl X

thanks again

http://webpages.charter.net/jam5/minimagcocker%20006.jpg

[magmonkey]

show a pic of the other side of the marker,

does it have a detent?

does it have a sear lug adjustment hole on the top of the marker behind the feed neck?

bu the frame and lpr I would have to say it is quite old

[ChrisRT]

By the looks of it, I would say maybe a 95??

[Chingis]

here is that pic of the other side

http://webpages.charter.net/jam5/minimagcocker.jpg

it has no hole on the top for adjustment
nor does it have a ball detent?

[Destructo6]

1995, with one or two upgrades.

I have # 25927, which was purchased in late 1995.

The front end parts appear to be original.

The "cut" backblock is an upgrade. The original was truly a block, with the same thickness from top to bottom.

The gripframe is original. Kinda funny, because the early Automags used the same gripframe casting.

The first things I would do with this is:
1) Rock/Micro Rock regulator.
2) Threaded timing rod.
3) Inline regulator.
That should get it useable. If the hammer lug hole is not drilled, have that done.

Most new Autococker parts will fit that body with no trouble. The gas block screw is smaller than today's, the velocity adjuster requires the plug type, and the bottom of the body is square (Kapp makes a 15° ASA for these). Those are about the only things you need to keep in mind.

[Chingis]

woooohoooo what fun

destruct06 your talking mostly french to me "im a Mag guy" but that gives me some direction to go with it , thanks. ill see what i can get rolling with to get it workiing

[magmonkey]

pm us if you want the body upgraded

ball detent, sear lug hole, air passages opened

[graysonp]

I wouldn't touch it if I were you. Get it shooting and leave it all original. That thing's ancient. Like Destructo said, it's probably a 95, maybe even a 93-94. It's a classic. I wouldn't touch the body if I were you.

[Got_Paint]

get a pump kit, and leave it the way it is :D

[Muzikman]

It's almost surly a 95 as I have a 96 with a 30K serial number.

[MagmanLee]

GOSH! I love old pb stuff, fixing em up is like fixing up old cars

[Mighty Mike]

Here's my autococker I bought back in 93/94 from a Smart Parts catalog. The serial number on mine is #15600.

[Destructo6]

Is that a brass Rock reg I see? If so, I understand they are fairly rare.

And a female Stabilizer in a ring mount?

That's the original style backblock I was talking about.

I think it would look better if you stripped the blue paint off of the body.

There are a lot of resources for Autocockers on the net. If you do a google search for "autococker timing" you should get enough to disassemble/reassemble, clean, maintain, and time the thing. Here's a good start:

http://www.paintballravi.com/Articles/AutocockerInfosheet/ACTroub.html

[Chingis]

hey thanks very much guys, so im pretty sure from what has been posted its a late 94 or its a 95 yr, im gonna try and time it first and see where that takes me i would love to leave it Origina...

ill keep ya informed once i get it timed

[ramenjames]

Sweet

i would get a pump kit if i was you .....that would be a pimp sniper

[NukeGoose]

Mike-
Looks like SS braided LP hoses?? Nice.

[Chingis]

ok got it up and shooting im 60 % sure i got the timing close enough to shoot , but i got the LPR leaking from the small hole on the side of it im sure its some sort of safety relief valve. anyone know ? and how to get rid of the leak?

[NukeGoose]

That means that there's too much input pressure. The leak is from the Pressure Relief valve.
Try running an inline reg.

[Acer12]

Its either a 94 or 95 i saw one like that at my local shop. i will see what year it was.

[Destructo6]

Yep, you need an inline regulator and, most likely, a low pressure regulator for the front block. That vintage of Sledgehammer LPR is terrible.

Looks like SS braided LP hoses?? Nice.
No, those are springs that hold the "top hats" on the barbs. Neither the springs nor the top hats are really required.