Befuddled, help

[vogle]

I'm quite new to mags. I've owned one for three whole weeks.

I bought a brand spanking new RT Custom - blue ULE body, Ygrip, x-valve, ULT , and lvl10 , and wow was I happy - for two games.

Starting my third game with the marker, and at a big scenario game at that, I suddenly had this happen:

The marker was 'factory tuned' for shims and spacers and carreirs. I had dialed it down to 250fps for indoor the week before, started chronoing at 350. Several turns down, still 350. Suddenly, i started to leak, and blow oil out the back of the marker.

Lovely. Strip down the marker, the regulator piston O-ring is nicked, somehow. Ok, swap it out, put the valve back in, gun charges up, fires once, and then the valve doesn't recharge.

Strip it down again. Check the reg seat, reg seat oring, powertube oring, carrier oring, all good. Reassemble, and gas er up.....

oh. Now i'm leaking down the barrel. I look in and when i apply gas, the bolt is moveing forward abotu 1/2". I can push it back with my finger, though. When I do , the leak stops, but the marker still never charges. Can't fire, no pressure on the trigger.

i followed the instructions in BlackVCGs RT Valve disassembly thread, replaced everything I can find... no idea what to do. The factory tune came with 3 shims in each place - 3 shims in the on-off, and 3 in the power tube area.

Any ideas/thoughts? I'm no mag expert, maybe i'm missing something, but I can't figure it out.... ready to cry at my aluminium doorstop that was, until sunday past, the nicest marker i ever fired.....

[ChrisRT]

Did you turn the velocity back up after putting it back together?

[vogle]

Yes, I did turn the velocity back up. I also borrow a 3-way setup and checked the input pressure into the marker from my N2 tank. I'm inputting at 790. Should definitely be enough to charge the trigger.

At this point I'm at quite a loss. Input is 790. When I gas it up, it immediately pushes the bolt forward, but the leak is not super fast. It acts like its not getting enough pressure into the X-valve reg. , but my input says 790......Quite confusing. I admit to not understanding how regulators work in any event, but i did all the maintenance procedures I can find here, and can't figure it out.

I'm wondering if the nicked oring has sent a piece of rubber somewhere into the valve assembly that I can't find...

[ChrisRT]

I think if you have an adjustable tank, turn input pressure up to 850-900, then try to adj velocity. It sounds like you did everything else right. Maybe reseat the reg piston oring?

[vogle]

But i've tried with 4 different tanks, one of which was outputting at 840. Same results. I did the reseat as well.

Nada.

i'll keep working on some ideas tonight. there's no o-rings left to replace though, unless the regulator valve that AGD describes as 'not serviceable' is gone already...

[Major Jam]

When you pull and hold the trigger, does the leaking stop?

[vogle]

There is no pressure at all in the trigger. THe only way to make the leaking stop is to physically push the bolt in, then it stops, but the trigger never gets pressure.

Could my regulator pin be plugged? or partially plugged?

[ZapTheMad]

It's gotta be your velocity adjustment. Crank that thing in there harder while working the trigger. The X-valve velocity adjuster is pretty stiff.

[vogle]

except i've turned it *all the way in*..... still the same issue.

[Big'n slo]

Are you using an allen key to tighten down on the field strip screw?

[BlackHalo]

The marker was 'factory tuned' for shims and spacers and carreirs. I had dialed it down to 250fps for indoor the week before, started chronoing at 350. Several turns down, still 350. Suddenly, i started to leak, and blow oil out the back of the marker.


By turned down, do you mean the nut was going into the marker? if so, you were increasing the FPS and the safety went off and blew air/oil out the back.

Only thing I can say is make sure that when you re-assemble, make sure the trigger rod is going to the right place. Had it a few times where I missed and I was getting the 'no trigger pressure' thing.

[athomas]

Take the valve apart and see if the regulator valve pin assembly is able to move freely. If this is stuck for some reason, then your valve won't recharge.

[vogle]

when i said 'dialed down' i had backed the velocity adjuster out of the marker a bit, down 25 fps to 250; it arrived from AGD at 275fps.

The very next time i put the bottle on , it *started* at 350. Blew the reg piston oring. Upon replacing it, when i gas it up the bolt hops forward and the valve won't charge.

Now, athomas, the regulator pin valve assembly, as best i can tell, is the piece that 'pops' into the front half of the valve, in front of the regulator seat? it friction fits; sure doesn't *look* like it moves . What exactly am I checking for?

[athomas]

Check it by sliding the back half of the valve and o-rings onto the pin. You should get a feeling as to whether it is really stiff or slides freely. Put a drop of oil on it.

A continuous 350 fps would indicate a leaking regulator seat o-ring.