Are ule trigger pulls worth buying if u don't have x-vlave??

[paintballfreak90]

look at title. ive heard that they only lightin the trigger alot if u have an x-valve. Or is that info wrong. If they don't work that well then how do u shoot fast on a mag and still make it tourny legal (not using x-valve).

[ß?µ£ §mµ®ƒ]

well x and rt valve are essentially the same, just one is lighter, it also works with a (modified-drilled) classic valve

they lighten the trigger pull, you can still shoot fast with out it

[TeamNausea]

Could you start using search and just reading other threads to find all this info... You've made a couple threads that i know ive seen answered numerous time elsewhere on this site.

[Gijim]

To be honest, I tried the ult trigger for a year with my classic valve and it was more trouble than its worth, but now with an Xvalve the ult trigger is awesome. Its up to you but my bolt stuck constantly with my old classic valve, frustrating when you have a good shot on someone and then your bolt sticks :mad:

[athomas]

it also works with a (modified-drilled) classic valve



The ULT fits the classic valve without modification. The smaller top means less force returning the trigger so the operation is more dependent on the operator making complete trigger pulls and releases. It does work though.

They fit all X-valves and newer retro valves. The older retro valves need the on/off hole machined out .

[soccer4minimags]

I bought two ULE triggers. One went in my x valve the other went in my air valve. The x I set up once and have not yet had to touch it again. It works just like its supposed to. On the air valve however, it took quite a few tries to get it going. Then every time I would use it it would have to be adjusted, it was never consistently working. Too much of a hassel and left me too many days with not being able to use that gun. I am pulling it out and putting in the stock on/off. I also have sent in my retro valve to be drilled to accept it so I will have both my rt's with the mod.

To me it wasn't worth it the difference in weight didn't seem that significant on the classic valve. I wasn't trading reliability for a small decrease in trigger pull weight. I could already fan 10bps easy with out trouble on the air valve and use it effectively. I'd say that the ULT in my classic maybe even slowed me down.

[Fred]

I had my retro milled out for it, it took a little bit to get it running right, but now its rockin!

I keep hearing about people putting them in classic valves... and wonder why... but whatever, its your money and marker, do what you want.

---Fred

[BeaverEater]

I have a ULT on my classic and it works perfectly fine. Everyone on my team have classic valves with the ULT and they have never had any problems either. The only problem that I know of is that you need a lot of shims. I only have 4 in mine but I know that some of my friends have around 10 or so. I got my ULT for 30 bucks and it was the best investment I've ever put into my gun.

scott

[penguinpunk555]

Yea, just gotta add more shims.

[danheneise]

I just recently got a ULT for my classic and can personally say, IT ROCKS !!! Now yes you do have to use many shims, for my setup i used all the ULT shims and 4 L10 shims, mainly because that's all that can fit in there, and the trigger feels awsome, i do have some bolt stick but hopefully some more L10 shims will help with the bolt stick as there is only one shim in the L10 right now. The bolt stick usually is not as noticable with a full tank, once i get down to the last few shots, it gets extremely easy to make the bolt stick.

[Bad_Dog]

all it needs to work on the Classic is some extra shims, and to avoid bolt stick, I installed trigger stops...

heres some more info on the ULT/Classic mix:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=110976

heres some more info on the Trigger stops:

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=136646&highlight=Trigger+stop+thread

by far the most valuable investment I've put into my marker...