Lvl X guts... can't get to em!

[warbeak2099]

I can't seem to get my shims and carrier out of my powertube. Someone on chat told me to use the field strip screw to catch the threads on the carrier, but that didnt work. In fact, I hope I didn't damage the carrier. Why is this not working? I can't seem to do anything to get these things out. Also, how do I take out my on/off assembly so I can switch it with a different one? Thanks all.

[AGDlover]

stop by your local dentest and ask for a few dental picks they work wondering on getting parts out of your on/off, PT or any small pace in your gun you need to pull parts out of

[warbeak2099]

Dental picks eh? I think I've got a few. Thanks.

[warbeak2099]

Oh, and how do you take out the on/off valve? I want to be able to switch out my ULT for a stock RTP on/off for when I want responsitivity. And any other ways to take out the carrier and shims?

EDIT:
Ugh, that's a negative on the dental picks. That didn't work either. What's wrong with this carrier and why won't it come out???

[silentdeath55]

switching the on/off won't work. lol, responsivity......Thats sounds funny. I think you mean reactivity.

My level X is the same way. Dental pics will work. You need to hook it under the carrier and pull on one side, and then pull the other side out. Just keep doing that until it comes out, it may take a while

Good Luck.

[Dayspring]

The field strip screw trick WILL work. You just have to thread it in far enough.

As for the on/off assembly. You already have the valve out. Just turn it upside down, pull the brass (for RT valve) or circular (for classic) assembly out.

[warbeak2099]

Thanks. I tried the strip screw even before reading these two recent posts and it worked. Yea, I just had to screw it in a little more. I also got the ULT out with a flathead screw driver.
silentdeath55: Yea I meant reactivity, scuse me. 4 and a half years with Tippmanns and I still can't say it right gahh! But what do you mean switching the on/off won't work? When I want to sweetspot with reactivity I'll put in the RTP on/off. When I want a light pull I'll switch in the ULT. I don't see a reason that won't work.

[the electrician]

the dental pick can be used quite effectively. get one that looks like a small hook. now look at the carrier and you should see a small hole in the brass, off to the side of the main hole. stick the hook in there and spin the carrier around a bit, while pulling it out. this will get the carrier out without any type of damage to it.

[warbeak2099]

I like the field strip screw approach myself, that's what has worked best for me. Thanks though. And will someone please tell me why the .756 RTP on/off won't be reactive in an xvalve?

[Dayspring]

If there's pressure pushing your trigger back out after you fire it, it's reactive.

If you want near full auto bouncing, then you need to do specific stuff to it. Keep in mind. It was NOT designed to bounce like that. The RT valve was made for a rapid recharge. The RT kick was a side-effect of the re-routed air flow in the valve.

[silentdeath55]

I'm pretty sure that switching the ON/OFF's won't give you more reactivity, but you could always try it.

[warbeak2099]

Ok, wait a minute. I thought that an X/RTP/RT/Retro/Emag valve had reactivity and bounce with the stock on/off. The when you put the ULT in, it gets rid of all bounce and reactivity. Now, if I put the stock .765 on/off back in, won't the reactivity come back? Won't I be able to sweetspot it unlike with the ULT? Now, what are these things you have to do to get reacivity besides increasing the input pressure?

[cheetah256]

you won't necessarily be able to "sweet spot" it, but you'll definitely see an increase in the trigger reactivity over the ULT.

[warbeak2099]

I'd probably need an adjustable tank to sweetspot it right?