Halo B vs. Reloader B

[BlackWeenie]

what are the differences? im eventually gonna buy one of these and i dont know what the difference is other than that the reloader is more expensive and uses 2 less AA batteries. im unsure if it can take the upgrades that the halo can (victory board, rip drive) would someone care to enlighten me?

[Blazestorm]

Empire comes stock with RIP drive, and is sound activated, I believe it's capped around 35 (Not positive) but it'll feed as fast as you shoot, not much more needed.

I plan on getting an Empire Reloader as soon as I get a hAir trigger :p

[cris8762]

reloader comes stock with rip drive, doesnt need victory board, doesnt have eyes so you dont need to worry about paint color (with your hopper at least....)

i love my reloader and would never consider getting anything else....

[Deathshadow9k]

reloader is sound activated, no idea what the feed cap is but its up there. it comes stock with rip drive but you cant put in a victory board cuz there is no eye (which means more over than the eye seeing it, if you chop paint your hopper wont be screwed until you gut it).

[BlackWeenie]

thanks a lot for all the help guys

[TSovern]

I have both and have found the Reloader to be unreliable on any setting other than 1 (the slowest) I can get decent results on 2 with larger, harder shelled paint (ie Evil) on a closed bolt gun but same setting and paint on open bolt gun is not reliable enough to count on in tournament play. I have trouble with both guns on 2 with smaller, softer paint (ie Draxxus).

The problem I am encountering is both A) loader is forceing the ball "on deck" into the ball in the breech enough to either crush it or more often enter the breech far enough itself to get it's bottom chopped by the bolt B) Double feeding on 2 different style of detents (F4 and same side double buttons (ie 04 aka)) and C) although more rare, the spinning drive cone cause breaks on the last several balls because it's spinning so fast and constant that the balls just bounce instead of sorting
.
The shells on the Reloader seem to be more brittle than those of the Halo, but that may just be me. The tray is absolutely more brittle on the Reloader as mine is cracked in the neck area and the Halo tray material is what the entire hopper should be made of (but then, they would never sell replacement shells!)

The Reloader seems slower than my Halos (Z and TE 1 code) in 1, same or slightly faster in setting 2, and easliy faster in 3 but I'm lucky to get one hopper off without a problem, and have never had two hopper in a row on setting 3. I should note that all of this has been with the 6 battery config. I have been experimenting with the 4 battery config. recently, and I don't think the results are going to be much different.

The Halo isn't perfect, but it's the loader I take out on the field when it counts, I still experiment with the Reloader during practices, but I think it will need revised to be reliable enough to count on.

[RRfireblade]

The problem I am encountering is both A) loader is forceing the ball "on deck" into the ball in the breech enough to either crush it or more often enter the breech far enough itself to get it's bottom chopped by the bolt B) Double feeding on 2 different style of detents (F4 and same side double buttons (ie 04 aka)) and C) although more rare, the spinning drive cone cause breaks on the last several balls because it's spinning so fast and constant that the balls just bounce instead of sorting


Are you going through the 'correct' calibration method during start up?

If so, when using extra brittle paint, simply back off on the spring tension(rip drive)and you should be good to go.

I have only ever ran mine on the fastest setting.Last saturday I was using it with old paint so brittle it would break if dropped from about 1-2 feet.Just backed off on the spring tension a bunch and let 'er rip.

[Creative Mayhem]

Right now I use a HALO B w/TE software and RIP drive on top of my warp. I haven't had any problems at all with it.

I don't know much about the reloader B itself, but i have heard it won't work well with the warp, the sound activation doesn't like being that far away from the gun or something.. Never the less, the HALO i have has served me well.. and I am more than happy with it. I am looking at trying a Reloader B on my project mag but it will be a vert setup so i dont see the sound activation being an issue as of yet.

[FallNAngel]

I have both and have found the Reloader to be unreliable on any setting other than 1 (the slowest) I can get decent results on 2 with larger, harder shelled paint (ie Evil) on a closed bolt gun but same setting and paint on open bolt gun is not reliable enough to count on in tournament play. I have trouble with both guns on 2 with smaller, softer paint (ie Draxxus).

I've used PMI Premium on setting 3 with absolutely 0 problems.


The problem I am encountering is both A) loader is forceing the ball "on deck" into the ball in the breech enough to either crush it or more often enter the breech far enough itself to get it's bottom chopped by the bolt B) Double feeding on 2 different style of detents (F4 and same side double buttons (ie 04 aka)) and C) although more rare, the spinning drive cone cause breaks on the last several balls because it's spinning so fast and constant that the balls just bounce instead of sorting

I've never had a problem with a gun chopping another ball because the one above it was pushing down too hard, this is with several different guns. Double feeding is entirely a problem with the detents, not the Halo itself. I had a bad double feeding problem with my Cyborg... new detents cleared the problem right up.
.


The shells on the Reloader seem to be more brittle than those of the Halo, but that may just be me. The tray is absolutely more brittle on the Reloader as mine is cracked in the neck area and the Halo tray material is what the entire hopper should be made of (but then, they would never sell replacement shells!)

A) The shells are the same
B) My Reloader cracked in the neck area as well, but NPB is replacing it for free (Thanks for the recommendation RRfireblade, I owe you one :hail: )

Aside from the feedneck cracking (at least it was replaced free) and crushing paint (if you're going to have a hopper feed that fast with fragile paint, it's gonna happen) I've had no problems with mine.

[minimag03]

The Reloader B doen't have eyes you you dont ahve to worry about cleaning them, and it is faster. I think they may come in two different sizes to, but I'm not sure about that.

[TSovern]

Well I must be an isolated case (not the first time, believe me) One thing I am sure of, the loader is pushing to hard. I can take the barrel off, look down the breech, and see that the top ball is nearly 1/3 into the chamber. Mine is pushing paint past detents that never fail with my Halos. The spring preload does not seem excessive, perhaps the motor is always applying some torque?? I have considered lube on the belt, but I hate the bandaid methodology approach to problems

[TSovern]

Are you going through the 'correct' calibration method during start up?

Yes

If so, when using extra brittle paint, simply back off on the spring tension(rip drive)and you should be good to go.



I have only ever ran mine on the fastest setting.Last saturday I was using it with old paint so brittle it would break if dropped from about 1-2 feet.Just backed off on the spring tension a bunch and let 'er rip.


A little confused here, please clarify "backing off the spring tension"

[animal]

I use a Halo B on top of my 12v warp, and it keeps the warp full as fast as I can shoot. I can't see any reason to change it, plus I'm already into the halo B for $130 or whatever I paid when it was brand new. Works great til the batteries go dead :)