PDA

View Full Version : Should I shorten my on/off pin?


trains are bad
08-01-2004, 01:31 PM
I can't get my mag to runaway. I can't get it to sweetspot even with the tank cranked all the way up till it leaks.

Now, I don't want to either, but I do want max reactivity and I have to run my flatline cranked way up to get it.

If I shortened my on/off pin, would it maybe be more reactive at a lower pressure so that I could run a sensible output pressure like 900 psi instead of 1150?

I have an xvalve with a regular on/off (no ult).

Is a quad oring better? An old retro valve I have has one in it. If so where can I get one?
68magOwner
08-01-2004, 01:42 PM
id say your lucky if you cant sweetspot it, makes it legal, anyway, no, dont mess wiht on/off, could mess up gun
trains are bad
08-01-2004, 01:51 PM
how?
NJPaint
08-01-2004, 01:57 PM
how?

Too short of an on/off pin will allow/make the gun go full auto, even with out pulling the trigger (as soon as gas is turned on). It will just keep going back and forth between "on" and "off". I don't think you should mess with your on/off pin. If you want to try a smaller pin, get an extra one and mod it all you want. Heck, buy a shorter one from a dealer, or from someone near you (We had to mess with 5-6 pins to get my e-mag from going full auto).
hAppy
08-01-2004, 01:59 PM
A LITTLE bit of change will throw off the length of the pin significantly. Don't do it
Anyways, I accidently BROKE my on/off pin, so as soon as I gassed it up, it went full auto. Scary.
trains are bad
08-01-2004, 02:05 PM
Too short of an on/off pin will allow/make the gun go full auto, even with out pulling the trigger (as soon as gas is turned on).


And.........................I'm out 8 bucks. How does that hurt my marker?



A LITTLE bit of change will throw off the length of the pin significantly. Don't do it

I have nice calipers. I also broke my on/off pin once, that's what gave me the idea. I think I'll start with .005, since you all say it's critical. That's the thickness of a ULT shim.
hAppy
08-01-2004, 02:26 PM
And.........................I'm out 8 bucks. How does that hurt my marker?
$8 for a stem of metal....

Anyways good luck, let us know when you suceed.
the electrician
08-01-2004, 02:29 PM
just use shims like they do in the ULT. that's what I do. it is reversible if it doesn't work, unlike shaving down the pin ;)

just order up some extra lvl 10 shims.
trains are bad
08-01-2004, 02:36 PM
But the regular on/off isn't threaded apart. You mean just put them between the brass and the orings in the top?
StormSurge
08-01-2004, 02:58 PM
Um I'm not sure but..... *Cough* *Cough* http://www.zakvetter.com/Pages/Paintball/Automags/Rapid_Fire/rf_disclaimer.html *Cough* *Cough* might have the awnsers you need...
Adrenaline_Junkie
08-01-2004, 03:22 PM
The whole rapid fire thing wont really help him. That page and stuff just explains rapid fire not his whole pin thing hes doin. IMO i wouldnt mess with the pin, theres no reason to have a fullauto gun if its illegal to play with.
68magOwner
08-01-2004, 03:24 PM
i think i heard it can wear out your sear faster
Blazestorm
08-01-2004, 03:49 PM
My gun has total run-away all the time.

I'm always shooting 20bps :D It's actually an effort to get it to shoot a single shot.

This is with a preset tank as well, but I was told by a friend I have a bad-oring in the on/off causing that. I'll look into it further, but for now, it's a lot of fun to play with :D
Lohman446
08-01-2004, 04:26 PM
:ninja: I once took out one of the o-rings at the top of the on-off.... and the marker cycled faster than I have ever heard a gun cycle, not sure if they were full pressure shots or not but the only way to stop it was to undo the tank :ninja:
the electrician
08-01-2004, 05:54 PM
I thought you said you had an x-valve. doesn't it have an RT on/off in it?

the RT on/of ahs a top and a bottom. how do think they got that little o-ring in there?
take it apart and add the shims one at atime until you get it the way you want.

you can shorten the pin, ut when you go too far, you have to buy another one and start over. I've done it both ways and the smart way is to use the shims.
punkncat
08-01-2004, 06:46 PM
just use shims like they do in the ULT. that's what I do. it is reversible if it doesn't work, unlike shaving down the pin ;)

just order up some extra lvl 10 shims.

I tried this method and it didn't work long. It was AWESOME reactive for a few shots and then wouldn't reset until I de-gassed it.
LudavicoSoldier
08-01-2004, 07:26 PM
I have a shortened on/off pin in my E-Mag valve. Makes the trigger rediculously reactive. It is hard to rip off single or doubles, but bursts of 5 or more are very very easy. It also makes the gun alot more tempermental if you dont oil well and often. I took a couple of pics of a stock AGD extra I ordered and my shortened pin. Check em out:

http://idisk.mac.com/dgreening/Public/stockagdpin.jpg

http://idisk.mac.com/dgreening/Public/shortpin.jpg

I'd advise you to order a back up pin in case you screw up. I am thinking that the best way to cautiously remove the metal is to use a whetstone (knife sharpening block). You WILL need a pair of digital calipers. Good luck.
tyrion2323
08-01-2004, 08:36 PM
I can't get my mag to runaway. I can't get it to sweetspot even with the tank cranked all the way up till it leaks.

Now, I don't want to either...

Sounds to me like you do.
trains are bad
08-02-2004, 09:08 PM
Sounds to me like you do.

um, no, I want to lower my input pressure and maintain highreactivity. I want high reactivity without running insane input psi, because that causes more shootup and I want to shoot deeper into the tank. I get crappy 2000psi fills half the time.

I shortened my pin to .735. Just need to get air to try it out.