Building a mag can you guys just go through this to see if it'll work?

[Southparkrocks]

I plan on building or maybe upgrading a mag what ever you'd like to call it.

A
-68 Powerfeedmag for around 120 for the internals unless I can get it for cheaper
-A body like this (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10554&item=3692240143&rd=1#ebayphotohosting)
-or A ULE Body(Does it come with a rail or can I use the 68 powerfeed one?-145
-And a Logic Vert Frame for 130
-And an xcel gas through grip

Would that work?

[WickeDKlowN]

Yea, it should all work. Both the ULE and the IT(the one on eBay) can use your stock rail.

Almost forgot, Welcome to AO!

[Southparkrocks]

Thanks, what rail is the one in this pic, wait its a Logic Alpha Rail
And with the IT Body is it limited? And crap the body is limited and doesn't come in black anymore.

http://img24.photobucket.com/albums/v72/p8ntball226/MVC-053F.jpg

[ß?µ£ §mµ®ƒ]

Welcome always happy to see more maggers!

[Southparkrocks]

How do you see if its the kind thats milled from a Slug?

[vf-xx]

IIRC the one's that have been showing up on ebay aren't the sluggo ones. I honestly don't recall for certian though.

[GT]

if you like search the techincal forum, or rank the posts by number of persons "viewed" my "how to build a mag" thread should be in the top ten.

gt

[Southparkrocks]

Does any store sell all the internals of the automag

http://underconstruction.typepad.com/home_sweet_home/fb9bd6cc.jpg

I'd like to be able to get all of them without getting a classic. Does the Retro Valve include all the internals(not including the rail,frame,body)?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=47252&item=3691499020&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

[Skoad]

if you buy that body off of ebay you will still need a feedneck and the washer/ring inside for the bolt and spring.

[Southparkrocks]

Would a stock automag include those?

And here's my setup, my friends gonna do the same thing

Red I.T. body-50
Logic Vert Frame-130
A 68 Automag-120
(Logic Alpha Rail, maybe)-59
CP Gas-thru-24?
ASA-20

Total of 403 dollars


http://www.p8ntball226.com/mvc-054f.jpg

[Lee]

Would a stock automag include those?

yes and no. a stock mag will have those parts already soldered into the body. i thikn you can get those parts from the airgun store, but not sure. you'll need to know how to solder them correctly though.

best bet is a ule body or a used body like the one you want that has already been correctly fitted with the rings.

i'm not sure what feednecks that ebay body takes but it'll most like;ly be cocker or angel threaded. those are pretty easy to find, but may not be easy to find one that matches up to the body color.

and welcome to ao!

[Southparkrocks]

http://www.jayloo.com/files/pics/5000/IMG_1916_b6136.jpg

That's like this one, automags don't seem to be ugly at all.


This thread said that it had a washer already in it?
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=144524&highlight=Xtreme+Depot

Then this thread contridicts it
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=128273&highlight=Xtreme+Depot

Damn this is confusing.

[Blood Ghost]

Well South Park Is My Friend Im The One That Got Him Into Paintballing And Im The One Who Wants To Build A Mag Also So Any Suggestions Or Help Will Be Wicked Sweet Thanks For All The Support.

[evan123]

Just don't even bother with the classic since you will be replacing everything anyways. Just buy a ULE Rt pro and sell the intelliframe to get a logic and your set.

[Southparkrocks]

We're buying it piece by piece, and parents don't want us spending that much money at once so we can't get the ULE Rt pro.

[Lohman446]

Ok.. parts you will need

A rail of some type

A body (like ULE or classic)

A trigger frame (many choices)

A sear assembly and the pin for it

A rail bushing

A valve (retro, classic, X) - this should have all the "internals" except the sear

I think thats it, though if Im wrong Ill be corrected

[Southparkrocks]

I emailed the dude on the washer thing and he said no sodering involved but you do have to get it from AGD. And were exactly does the washer go, I checked the manual but its not there.

http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?action=cat.prodInfo&productID=372&categoryID=16

http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?action=cat.prodInfo&productID=373&categoryID=16

Those are the parts you need

[SpecialBlend2786]

heh, I was in the same position as you were.

Contact Roguefactor here on AO, you can probably buy all the parts from him.

Also try Tunaman and Logic
:bounce:

[Southparkrocks]

You just need the washer and clip right?

[gc82000]

Do you also have a Compressed air tank, because if you get a Retro or X-valve you need these things. They dont take CO2 just so you know. other then that I am done.

And take the advice on checking a dealer here on AO for any help you might need in the future. And welcome to AO.

[bunker17]

if you buy the it body remember them to give you the inside washer and the c- clip cuz in my order they forgot and i had to buy it from airgun for about 5 bucks . it should work fine.

[WGPforlife]

southparkrocks, on post 12, do you know what frame that is on the solid black mag? the trig looks like blade but the frame's curved.

[Southparkrocks]

I think its 1 of Rogue Factors new 90* 1's

[Southparkrocks]

Does any store sell all the automag internals so I don't have to buy a whole new 1? Or do only the forums have them?

[Southparkrocks]

Instead of buying a whole new old mag could I just buy one a A.I.R Valve and put in in a ULE Body, get an Alpha Rail and Logic frame and work? The manual here http://www.airgun.com/downloads/valveexplodedview.pdf shows all the parts, does that mean I can get them all at the automag store?


I just checked and you can get everything except the Valve Assembly :( And the only people who sell the whole thing sells it for more than a ULE RT Custom, and too bad the ANS 2 Valve doesn't include the damn bottom. http://www.pbn5.com/paintball/paintball.mvc/p=1000639


http://www.airgun.com/museum/largetiffs/airvalvevm.jpg

[Dryden]

Instead of buying a whole new old mag could I just buy one a A.I.R Valve and put in in a ULE Body, get an Alpha Rail and Logic frame and work? Do any stores sell them?Yes you can do this, but the Classic Valves aren't sold retail any longer. The best thing to do if you go this route is to buy a used Classic Valve from someone in the AO classifieds. They typically can be had for $40 or under with the stock Level 7 bolt. Later, if you decide to upgrade to an X-Valve, you can trade in the Classic Valve for a substantial (~$100) credit off of a new X.

Incidentally, when you purchase a rail, you'll need to get a sear pin/axle and a sear to fit. The RTPro/Emag rails use a different sear and pin from what is found in the AM/MM (Logic Alpha) rails. I'm sure Ryan at Logic can hook you up with the front frame screw, field strip screw, sear assembly, and rail bushing when you order the Alpha rail if you ask. Also, you should specify whether or not you'll be mounting a foregrip, so that the front of the rail is punched or slotted before you receive the rail. Depending on which body you use, you may or may not need the rail's twist lock assembly. Old stainless bodies require a twist lock assembly, while the aluminum ULE and variants (Deadlywind) do not.

[Southparkrocks]

Yes you can do this, but the Classic Valves aren't sold retail any longer. The best thing to do if you go this route is to buy a used Classic Valve from someone in the AO classifieds. They typically can be had for $40 or under with the stock Level 7 bolt. Later, if you decide to upgrade to an X-Valve, you can trade in the Classic Valve for a substantial (~$100) credit off of a new X.

Incidentally, when you purchase a rail, you'll need to get a sear pin/axle and a sear to fit. The RTPro/Emag rails use a different sear and pin from what is found in the AM/MM (Logic Alpha) rails. I'm sure Ryan at Logic can hook you up with the front frame screw, field strip screw, sear assembly, and rail bushing when you order the Alpha rail if you ask. Also, you should specify whether or not you'll be mounting a foregrip, so that the front of the rail is punched or slotted before you receive the rail. Depending on which body you use, you may or may not need the rail's twist lock assembly. Old stainless bodies require a twist lock assembly, while the aluminum ULE and variants (Deadlywind) do not.

So I need the front frame screw, field strip screw, sear assembly, and rail bushing even though I'll be using a Logic Vert Frame? I'm not using a RTPro or Emag though?

[Dryden]

So I need the front frame screw, field strip screw, sear assembly, and rail bushing even though I'll be using a Logic Vert Frame? I'm not using a RTPro or Emag though?Yes. The front frame screw bolts through the trigger frame, rail, and into the body. The field strip screw bolts through the trigger frame, rail and rail bushing, and into the valve. The rail bushing is pressed into the rear underside of the rail to hold the trigger frame in alignment when the field strip screw and valve are removed. The sear pin sits in the rail and provides the fulcrum for the sear to pivot on. The sear drops through the rail and is partially positioned in the trigger frame, directly behind the trigger itself.

Everything is built off of the rail. These misc parts (~$30 brand new) are not usually included when you order something like a valve, trigger frame, or even a rail. Some of these things could be preinstalled or thrown in, but I would encourage you to ask the seller first to be certain.

The only parts that are usually included with a valve (or that you may assume will be included) are the z-lock pin, the bolt, spring and bumper, and some type of on/off assembly appropriate to the valve. If it's an X-Valve, it should also include the Level 10 anti-chop bolt with all additional parts for tuning. You should not have to worry about dozens of internal valve components like reg seats, piston assemblies, spring packs, and power tubes provided the valve is sold new or tested and advertised as working.

A trigger frame would normally include the trigger itself and pin, a saftey mechanism, and grips. Mounting screws, the appropriate sear and sear pin, and bottomline adapters are not included in basic trigger frame packages purchased retail.

[Southparkrocks]

So I would need this

AM/MM Sear Assembly (http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=207&categoryID=16)

AM/MM Sear Pin (http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=206&categoryID=16)

Front Frame Screw (http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=184&categoryID=16)

Rail Bushing (http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=175&categoryID=24)

Field Strip Screw (http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=100&categoryID=23)

Field Strip Screw Washer (http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=265&categoryID=16)

With a logic Alpha rail, Logic Vert Frame, ULE Body a CP Gas through grips, Unimount and the appropriate gas fittings?

[Dryden]

You need everything you listed except the field strip screw washer. A washer is included when you purchase the field strip screw (AGD's store mentions this in the product description).

Also, you will need to decide between either a vert ASA or a Rogue or Doc Nickel 15 degree ASA. The CP gas through grip is designed to screw into a vert ASA, but you don't have one in your parts list. The vert ASA should include the cap head bolt to secure it to the rail (I know Rogue and Doc include one with theirs, I'm not positive about AGD). They're about $20 - $25. Specifically, you're looking for the 'dovetailed' vert ASA, not the 'flat' ones like what are included in the RT packages. They're not the same type, as the RT ASAs actually bolt onto the silver bracket, not the rail itself.

You want the 'dovetail,' either this (http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=87&categoryID=16) or this (http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=144107).

[Southparkrocks]

Thanks

[Southparkrocks]

http://www.logicpaintball.com/AlphaMag.jpg

I don't think I need think I need those 2 to put a foregrip on. And can anyone suggest a color scheme?

[Dryden]

I don't think I need those 2 to put a foregrip on.In your parts list you mention a CP gas through grip. Well, the standard CP gas through grips screw into a vertical bottle ASA, like this one:

http://www.bininger.com/images/cp.jpg

The picture which you show above of the Logic Mag uses a one-piece design gas through that is already milled with the dovetail on the top to fit the AM/MM rail, and therefore the Logic Alpha. If you're getting a CP grip, you'll need something to screw it into since it isn't designed to bolt directly to the rail, hence the AM/MM vert bottle adapter with the dovetail.