I think i am going to fry my warp, HELP

[emanjamin]

I just finished hooking up my intelliframe to my 12V rev and warp as of 4:11 in the the morning. I have a jack made for the the intelliframe to the warp. That was done before with no problems worked perfectly. I just hooked up my intelliframe to run the rev by intellifeed.

I have both the rev and the warp wires hooked up to the same roller switch in the frame.

Well everything is hooked up right on the intellifeed for the rev because I hooked it up without turning on my warp and it works fine, just as it should.

Because I had to hook one of my wires up to my battery, I decided to take a DMM and measure the voltage going to the warp jack.

I connected the DMM to my warp plug and without the rev on. This gave me a reading of .6 ohms (the resistance in the wires). When the rev is turned on however, it reads 18.3 volts (both batteries in series in the rev). That is with out pushing the switch. When the rev is on and running, not by pressing the switch but the photo eye, the DMM reads 3.75 volts. Either when the rev is spinning or not, when I close the switch the DMM reads 10.6 ohms (again the resistance in the wires).

So my question is, when I plug the jack into the warp and turn on my rev, is my warp board going to fry because of the voltage being too high? I can't test this right now because my AGD warp is at the factory, and the PTP warp that I have on my gun right now needs the jack for the external sensor to work.

Please anybody who has any experience with frying warps, fixing warps, and knowing everything about warps, or anybody with knowledge of electronics please help me. I don't know what to do.

I am pretty sure that I would be fine if I could hook up two roller switches to the frame right next to each other but they wouldn't fit in the frame.

Anybody? Please help.

(This is the longest post I have ever had and it is 4:30 in the morning!)


Oops, this should go in the tech forum, sorry.

[TheTramp]

Well, I'm not an expert in the electronics of the warp but I do know that 18V is not good for your Warp. People who have put 2 9Vs in series have put a 12V regulator into the line (info on this can be found in the tech forum)to get the boosted voltage without risking the board. Another option would be puting the 2 9Vs in paralell. While you'll only have 9Vs, the batteries will last much longer. I've got mine set up like this and it dorsn't seem to have any problem keeping up. Hope this helps.

[Shaft]

All this talk about putting batteries in parallel is bothering me. I've always been taught not to do this.

I understand that the goal would be to use the batteries as current sources.
9v don't generate gobs of current, but I would think all that is happening is one battery is charging the other.

It matters not really because batteries are cheap.

If putting them in parallel makes the batteries last longer does that mean longer than using two 9v one at a time?

[emanjamin]

No, I don't think you understand what I am saying. I know that the warp isn't supposed to run off of 18 volts and I am not trying to do that. The little silver jack that you would plug an intellifeed cable into on the side of the warp requires, I think a 5 volt pulse to turn it on and spin.

If I turn on my rev, I would have a 18 volt pulse going into the jack. I want to know if that 18 volts is going to damage my warp.

[TheTramp]

Well, you pose two questions/points.

1) Batteries aren't that expensive.
- I find 9Vs fairly expensive. I'm not saying the'll break the bank but when you are using 4 at a time it can get pricey.

2) Do two 9Vs in parallel last longer than using each separatly?
- To be perfectly honest, I don't know. I'm basing my knowlage on things I've learned here. I'd like someone to test this out. Granted it'll take a while but it would be good information to have.

Anyone have the answer to this?

[gimp]

well, I dont know about your question, perhaps Tom or Rob can answer it. But I do know that your warp will fry if you try to power it with 18 volts.

[TheTramp]

I did misunderstand where the 18V's were going. I def. wouldn't but 18V's into something that only needs 5V (but I could be wrong). With that said, I don't have any suggestion on how to fix this. We need to get someone who has done this mod to ecplain how they overcame the problem.

[BlackVCG]

It sounds to me like having hooked up one of the wires to the battery as you said you did is drawing an unregulated 18V. What would really help is if you could take a picture of your wiring harness and post it. Then I'd be able to see what's going wrong. There's a way to do this so that it all works properly, but I'd like to see how you have it setup right now and see where we need to start from.

[Shaft]

Originally posted by TheTramp
Well, you pose two questions/points.

1) Batteries aren't that expensive.
- I find 9Vs fairly expensive. I'm not saying the'll break the bank but when you are using 4 at a time it can get pricey.



I must clarify. A 9v is cheap in comparison to a bench top lab power supply. Hooking two powersupplies in parallel is an expensive experiment since this can break these supplies.
Hooking two 9v in parallel would hardly cost anything if they fried each other.

[TheTramp]

Good point.

I was thinking of a practical experement using the Warp and two (well 4) 9Vs. Once you start getting into power supplies I'll just follow the directions and not do any experementing of my own.

[Shaft]

The powersupplies work pretty good on the field, but the extension cords tend to give my position away.

[emanjamin]

I have pictures to put up but I don't really know how to get them up here. All of the websites that I use will give me their "Picture hosted by: Blah Blah"

Is there anybody I can send the pictures to have them put it up here?
Thanks

[Dubstar112]

you got aim? teamcolors30 and ill post them.

[Dubstar112]

http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/Dubstar112/5jpg.jpg

http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/Dubstar112/4jpg.jpg

http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/Dubstar112/3jpg.jpg

http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/Dubstar112/2jpg.jpg

http://www.hunting-pictures.com/members/Dubstar112/1jpg.jpg

there ya go.

[emanjamin]

Thanks Dubstar,
OK, The top picture is the one of the two wires hooked up to the revy, one is connected to the battery and the other is connected to the red wire, just as instructed from AGD in the other post.
#2 is a picture of my frame with both the intellifeed to the warp (green/red wires), and the (black) braided to the revy. There is a third wire going from the switch to the jack pictured, that wire doesn't do anything, it is just there so I could braid the other two instead of twisting them.
#3 is an upclose picture of the switch, both sets of the wires hook up to the same terminals of the switch.
#4 is the same picture as 3 just with the black braided pulled up so you can see the green/red (warp) wires.
#5 is just a picture of how the revy is put into place with the hook up.

So the question is, is the 18 volt pulse going to fry my warp board?

Thanks

[emanjamin]

up.

[emanjamin]

up,up
BlackVCG, what do you see wrong with it?

[mykroft]

Hooking up 2 batteries in parallel will NOT damage them, it will simply provide a longer battery life( 2x the mAH available, vs 2x the voltage in series). Some adjustable bench powersupplies can be damaged when put in parallel due to internal design, so read the instruction manual first before using them, it is simply a design issue, batteries cannot be harmed by being placed in parallel.

18V= new Warp board, guaranteed to fry it, 12V is Max it can handle


As to the Warp/E-Mag Bat/Revvy mod. The revvy will take 18V across the battery contacts no problem, as it has an internal 12V regulator(Main difference between it and a Shredder), the Warp needs a 9 or 12V reg though. simple way to do this is to go to Radio Scrap and get a LM7809 or LM7812 compatible part, and build the reference circuit that will be usually on the back of the box, with the 12V output being hooked up to the Warp. Note that this will hurt batterylife, as the reg will draw power as it uses heat to disapate the extraneous voltage. I'm going to design a better voltage reg for this mod, when I get the time, and my electronics gear down from my mothers, where it currently resides.

[emanjamin]

Mykroft,
Where do I put that LM7809 or LM7812 regulator?
I don't have a reference circuit. Do I just put it anywhere between the warp and the revy in my case?
Thanks for the help.

[BlackVCG]

Here's the deal you basically have a parallel setup going from the Revy to the Switch and from the Warp to the switch. This setup will always cause the Revy to slowly spin with the switch open and once it's closed (pressed down) it spins the Revy at full speed. What I'm saying is that if you run two wires from th Revy directly to the switch and the same with the Warp, or you run two wires out from the switch and create a Y-Splitter to intellifeed both the Revy and the Warp at the same time, it will cause the Revy to constantly spin, but at a slower rate when the switch is not depressed. I've tried both ways and it doesn't work. The Revy will not stop spinning when the switch is open. I don't know what's going on because I haven't taken the time to figure it out, but it acts as though there's some voltage leak and it's going to the Revy causing it to slowly spin when the switch is not depressed. Press the switch and the Revy and Warp both spin full speed without problems.

To be honest, I don't know of anyone that's been able to setup intellifeed to both the Hopper and the Warp from a microswitch in a mechanical gun. I did find a a way to wire it so that both spin at full speed when the switch is closed and when open both the Revy and Warp are not spinning. The only problem is, I never actually setup my gun with intellifeed for both the Revy and Warp. I just had a testing harness built up that I used to test it and see if it worked. It did work and voltages read right with the DMM, but I have no idea how well it will work when actually setup on the gun and used during play. I don't know that it works 100%, so I'm not going to tell people how to do it and then be responsible for any problems that result, because I didn't fully test it in the first place. My suggestion is to setup the hopper so it works off of the eye and just run intellifeed to the Warp. I've been running this setup for awhile and it works just fine. I've never been able to shoot fast enough to justify having intellifeed going to both the Revy and Warp. Sorry I can't be of more help, but I'm not going to comment on how I think it should be done, when I don't even know how it will work with prolonged use.

[emanjamin]

Well thanks anyway BlackVCG.
When my rev is turned on and the eye is blocked it won't spin, if the eye is unbocked it will spin. That is normal. If the rev is spinning and the switch is pressed, the rev will actually spin faster. You can easily notice this. Like I said before the DMM will read about 3 volts when the switch is closed and the revy already spinning. This means that 15 volts is going into the rev right? Why isn't it regulated like it is supposed to be? Is it becase the 18 volts is not going into the rev board when the switch is pressed but is going trough the switch directly to the red wire, I hooked the other wire too?

How much voltage can the warpfeed take in the ittelifeed jack? I know it needs at least a 5volt pulse right? What is the max voltage it can take?
Should I just put a resistor in the wiring going to the warp after the switch? Would that help?

[BlackVCG]

The Revy will work fine if it's just hooked up to intellifeed. If just one or the other is hooked up, they'll work fine, but once you have both setup for intellifeed the Revy will spin at about 5rpm with the switch open and full speed once it's closed. I'm not sure how much voltage can be sent through the intellifeed jack. With the jumper on (+) I think it's only 5V, but with it on (-) it changes to where the amount of voltage you have going to the board is what comes out of the intellifeed jack.