Anodizing question

[mobius]

With the major thread about M.A.X. Anodizing and Empyreal Rogue's Mag, coupled with the idea that you shouldn't reano a Mag valve, I had a ponderance.

First, I assume that the tolerance issues with reano-ing a Mag valve are due to the internals of the valve (air passages, etc). Is this correct? Or are we also heavily concerned about the outside diameter of the valve?

Second, if the major source of concern is the interior of the valve, would it be possible to mask off the openings of the valve, and only strip and reano the outside, thus leaving the interior tolerances intact? Granted, the interior of the valve would be a different color, but I don't see that as a problem, since the only time that it would be visible would be when the valve is taken apart.

What do you guys with serious knowledge of valve tolerance and anodizing think?

[Tunaman]

The answer is simple. Don't reanno the valve. There are issues with the powertube and threads, as well as mating surfaces that use orings to seal. I would leave it alone. ;)

[mobius]

Yeah, I've heard that before (from you, i think). ;) Anyway, my question still stands: Is it possible to reano just the exterior surfaces (ie, the parts that are visible with the gun fully assembled), without doing the threads and interior? This should leave the tolerances intact. I just don't know if you can ano one part of the surface, but not the other, by masking it somehow.

Either that, or you can hook me up with a raw X-valve when I decide to get my gun anoed... :D

[mobius]

Anyone? Beuller? Beuller?

[teufelhunden]

Sealing off the interior or not, the metal still undergoes changes as a whole. Can screw up a bunch of stuff.

[CoolHand]

Sealing off the interior or not, the metal still undergoes changes as a whole. Can screw up a bunch of stuff.

That, is just not true.

I have on at least three ocassions reano'ed a barrel back that I did not want to change the ID of. How? I simply plugged and masked the ends, so that no stripper (and no acid from the ano bath) could get inside. When they were done, I had one blue, one red, and one orange DYE UL back, but all of them had black bores ('cause I didn't reano the bore). They shot the same after their experience as they did before.

It is possible to plug and mask all the holes, so you just strip and reano the outside surfaces (if you can get the valve all the way apart that is), but its gonna be a hassle, and probably cost a fair amount of money too.

I just hate to see people say things are impossible, when in actuality, they are just hard to do.

I think it would, however, be prudent to work with someone local, so that you can be there to babysit your parts while they mask and ano them (lest you leave and they forget to plug the holes :eek: ).

Anyhoo, that's all I've got.