Out of the Box RT Pro will not fire

[trimegatron]

what's up guys, today I pulled my new RT Pro out of the box to go put the smack down on some electros. To my disappointment the marker only shot one time by itself at the crono. After inspection the valve seemed to be stuck in the forward position. I put a couple of drops of oil in the ASA (without success) then I thorougly lubed valve w/ the included oil (without success). The field players suggested lubing the on/off with shocker lube. Which I did, I also worked the on off in and out of the valve for five minutes or so (I was told this might help). Also, I compressed the spring in my hands for another five minutes hoping that this would break in the spring slightly. After every adjustment I would try and fire the marker. Every shot left the bolt in the forward position. I was able to forecefully use my finger to reset it but even after lubricating everything and trying to break in the parts I wasn't able to get better results. Does anyone know what might have caused this? Man, I guess this is going to be a little bit more complicated than my classic! Thanks for your help in advance. Trimega

also if it matters it's the ULE body with 'cocker threading. thnx

[personman]

You need to tune your Level 10. I guess AGD doesn't do a very good job from the factory.
You were going to have to do it eventually though anyway, because the oring has a break in period.
Here is a guide, just follow the instructions and you should be good.
http://www.automags.org/resource/level10/index.shtml

By the way, there is a reason that shocker lube comes with shockers and mag lube comes with mags. Shocker lube is a grease and mag lube is oil. Wipe off all the grease you put on and replace it with a coat of oil.

[trimegatron]

That's sad to hear about them not tuning the valve. It makes me wonder about the crono tag where it was fired three times at the factory. Given its condition it seems hard to believe that it had ever been fired.

I'll take a look at that link. Thanks for you post!

[Tunaman]

Sometimes the orings are tight. Just go up a carrier size using the same oring and try that. If you cant get it going just contact me and we get it fixed asap. ;)

[alooney11]

Check your pressure, what type of tank are you using?

[CaliMagFan]

go to the link in my sig... if you cant fix it from there, then god help your soul... jk... hey--- junk that "shizzzocker lube" and get some "auto lube".... tru that...

-kyro

[B.A.M.]

sounds like my kind of like my problem. my rt ule wont recock sometimes but im now tyring to tune the lvl X

[trimegatron]

Guys I appreciate your imput. This morning I went to an NPPL event @ Disney. AGD was there and the tech took a look at my rig. He swapped the carrier out for a different one but I dont' remember if he said it was larger or smaller. In addition he took out two shims. It shot fine at the event but when I got it home it started leaking down the barrel. Did I read that you should run the largest carrier possible without it leaking out of the barrel? I'm not sure what to do. Should I try and add a shim? I think that he has it setup without any shims added. Thanks!

[BlackVCG]

Go back down a carrier size if it's leaking. Sometimes o-rings just don't work between two sizes of carriers. They'll be too tight in the next size down from the one that is leaking.

In this case, get a new one out of the bag of LX parts and try that. With enough practice, you'll be able to "feel" the fit of the o-ring and know when it's going to leak and when it's too tight.

[trimegatron]

I'm going to put in the smaller carrier, but should I leave out the 2 shims?

[personman]

I'm going to put in the smaller carrier, but should I leave out the 2 shims?
If you are leaking, then the only thing you should really change is the carrier. If the shims are set fine then you dont need to worry about them. Use the same amount.

[Bad_Dog]

are you running a LP tank?