Reactivity Factors

[jrod]

I have a new Tac One. It does not have the ULT. Obviously it's an RT with X valve. The shims and carrier are whatever the factory put in. Lastly, I've put about 2500 rounds through the marker.

Anyway, on to my question. What factors influence the reactivity of the marker? I recently purchased a hyperflow and cranked the pressure as far up as I dare (about 1100 psi according to the gauge). I only get some minor reactivity. I can feel the trigger getting pushed back, but I can't really sweetspot it for more than two or three shots. I am familiar with sweetspotting; I've done it with friends' markers. So what can I try?

I'm actually considering the ULT, and I understand reactivity will suffer. But at this point, I really don't care.

[Z-man]

I wrote up this info on my website just for your benefit :D

Z-man's "How To Rapid-Fire" Pages (http://www.zakvetter.com/Pages/Paintball/Automags/Rapid_Fire/rf_disclaimer.html)

[MindJob]

Try a shorter on/off pin. It will GREATLY increase the reactivity.

[lbonettosd]

J-Rod,
I've got a Tac1, ULT, a preset 92/45 crossfire tank and I very worn in X valve (40,000+ rounds thru it). Now I've put 4 ULT shims + 1 Level X shim in the ULT and I've got tons of reactivity for sweetspotting, extremely low trigger pull weight and the amazing thing is its walkable. Now if I my AGD flatline on the gun (w/900psi or higher inlet) it becomes very easy to sweetspot. I own a couple of X valve mags and the one thing that I have noticed is that the X valve seems to become more reactive the more the valve gets used.

I've tried to duplicate this setup in a newest X valve (one with like 3 cases thru it) and it had a light trigger pull (not as light) and the reactivity wasn't their either. I even tried adding another LX shim to the trigger and it still wasn't the same as my oldest X-valve. Now my point is that the more the valve gets "broken in", or used, the more reactive they seem to become. So Don't get discouraged just know that it is going to take a little while for the valve to be broke in (10+ cases).

Hope this helps,
Bone

[jrod]

J-Rod,
I've got a Tac1, ULT, a preset 92/45 crossfire tank and I very worn in X valve (40,000+ rounds thru it). Now I've put 4 ULT shims + 1 Level X shim in the ULT and I've got tons of reactivity for sweetspotting, extremely low trigger pull weight and the amazing thing is its walkable. Now if I my AGD flatline on the gun (w/900psi or higher inlet) it becomes very easy to sweetspot. I own a couple of X valve mags and the one thing that I have noticed is that the X valve seems to become more reactive the more the valve gets used.

I've tried to duplicate this setup in a newest X valve (one with like 3 cases thru it) and it had a light trigger pull (not as light) and the reactivity wasn't their either. I even tried adding another LX shim to the trigger and it still wasn't the same as my oldest X-valve. Now my point is that the more the valve gets "broken in", or used, the more reactive they seem to become. So Don't get discouraged just know that it is going to take a little while for the valve to be broke in (10+ cases).

Hope this helps,
Bone

That's kind of what I thought. Can anyone else confirm this?

[Z-man]

To a certain degree yes. After I figured out the basics of how to get the RT to rapid-fire, I picked up an RT Pro and stuffed in a brand new X-Valve. Within the fist 500 dryfires I was able to get it start. But it took a case of paint or 2 to get the parts worn in and after that it would rapid-fire without stopping (and I could drop the input pressure a bit.