Help needed (automag newbie)

[Rallog]

Hi... If something like this has been posted before, I'd appreciate someone pointing me to the thread.

I'm an experienced paintballer with an a5 with an egrip, flatline, freak system, and lots of other goodies, but now I'm interested in switching things up. I'm really interested in an automag, but I'm not exactly sure how to set one up. I'm a recballer, but the field I'm a ref at is putting in a speedball field as well (sometimes we take off the ref shirt and hop in to balance things out especially when its some walk on kids). I want to try to stay away from an electronic setup, so it looks like the RT pro is the way to go. However, I want to make sure you can get rid of those shiny sight rails and foregrip. Pretty much I guess what i need help on is the details, what side feed and what type of feed to get (right or left, warp or power, that sorta thing.. i'm right handed). As it stands I'll be running of HPA with a remote line, I'll just get a new back for my freak to fit it, but I don't know what specifics to get on the gun.... I was also thinking of completely eliminating batteries and trying out a qloader system instead of warpfeed/halo. Anyway, I appreciate any help you guys could give me on this one. Keep in mind that I'm primarily a rec baller, so I don't want shiny things, but at the same time I'll probably be doing some speedball so I'll need something that can hold its own.

-Rallog

[TheDuelist]

Welcome to AO first of all. As for the sight rail, yes it can come off. The front grip can be removed comlpletely if you want or you can punch through the rail and change the front grip however you like. There is a spot on the rail designed to be drilled through to do this. Roguefactor makes an excellent front grip. Check out the "Dealers" section of the forum for some aftermarket parts.

As far as feeds go I would recommend the ULE body. Its lighter since its made of aluminum and if your not running a warp you don't have to worry about right or left feed types. I will be honest and say I don't have any experience with the Qloader system so I can't recommend what would be best in that situation but i'm sure someone here does and they will most certainly offer you some good advice. Hope this helps.

[Dayspring]

If you want to get rid of the shiny stuff but want the same performance, get the Tac One. Same gun, different body.

[Joni]

If you want to run a warp, use a warp left ULE body. Otherwise centerfeed ULE or TAC would be best. The foregrip can be exchanged to anything with standard ASA threads, but I find the bicycle grip very comfy.

[Rallog]

Thanks for the input so far. The reason I want to stay away from the tac is the centerfeed. I really don't like them. Couple more questions to add to my list:

What exactly does the intelligrip do? is that just to aid the warpfeed, or are there other features about it?

Is the warpfeed ULE the standard feed tube size, just angled lower(in other words, could i put a warpfeed ULE on and hook the qloader system to it)?

[Rallog]

Oh, one last thing, does anyone know if I should get a automag freak base or a autococker freak base? It says its autococker threaded, right? :tard:

[TheDuelist]

ULE bodies are cocker threaded.

[temps]

yes cocker threads, automag twist lock is for the old stainless steel bodys.

Welcome to AO :D

[mobius]

Both the ULE and Tac One bodies are center (vert) feed. If you're trying to stay away from vert feed, then you don't want a ULE body, unless you decide to go for either a warp or Q Loader. Then get the warp body. If your right handed, you'll want a Warp left, since it places the warp on the left (inside) side of the gun. These bodies use Cocker barrels, so buy a Cocker back for your Freak.

If you want a powerfeed, you'll need to stick with the older stainless steel body, which uses the twistlock barrels. It's heavier, though, and requires an elbow for your hopper. If you want to run a warp on a stainless body, I recommend getting a powerfeed right, and a long warp powerfeed plug. This will pl;ace the warp on the left side of the marker. It will also allow you to put an elbow and hopper on later, if you prefer. In this case, you'll need an Automag back for your Freak.

The Intelliframe allows you to add a microswitch that activates your Revvy or Warp feed every time you pull the trigger, instead of whenever the sensor tells it to. The general concensus is that this is a good thing. The Intelli is also a double trigger frame, whereas the stock carbon frame is only a single. It is also an incredibley well made trigger frame.

[Rallog]

Thank you all very much for your help... very informative... makes me look foward to becomeing an automag owner.