ULT on a classic

[autockr01]

I just got my ULT today and I put it on my classic valve. (I'm actually tuning it as we speak) On a side note, i also have a level 10 on my classic valve as well. The ULT kit only comes with like 5 shims, which apparently isn't enough. I had 2 shims left over from my level 10 kit so i stuck those on the ult also. So now i have 7 shims in my ult and it is firing a little more reliably. Unfortunately, i am still getting some bolt stick, and unfortunately im out of shims. Other than the bolt stick, this gun rocks!! No more chopping, and a lighter trigger... AWESOME. I know that the ult is not suggested for use with a classic valve mainly because of inadequate trigger return pressure. BUT, does anyone have any advice or tips so i can decrease the stick? ANy way i can tune my ult or lvl10 so the bolt stick will go away?

[White_Noise]

use lvl10 shims in the ult. theyre equal to 2 ult shims.

[onakone]

So its chuffing right (or refusing to fire, same thing)?. In that case what you wanna do is make it easier for the bolt to come forward and you can accomplish that two ways. You can either mess with your carrier oring and get it nice and loosly fitting (without leaking), or if your carrier oring is already good and worn in you can cut the bolt spring down a bit (only cut little bits then re-chrono and test every cut). Remember if you cut too much your gun will start chopping again.
And this is all assuming the lvl10 is the problem. I supposed it could be the ult but I wouldn't be the one to ask about that.

[warbeak2099]

It probably isn't the ULT kit. Most likely your lvl 10 needs a bit more tuning. It could also be a problem I've had. Make sure your front frame screw and field strip screw are screwed in equally tight. If one is screwed in farther than the other, the body and rail will actually bend and cause the bolt to stick. Oh, and you've got the equivalent of 9 shims on your ULT if you have 5 ULT shims and 2 Lvl 10's. If you have an RT valve, you'd be getting mad bounce lol.

[Asym]

first a few questions, are you running HPA and if you are is your tank adjustable?

now heres what I've found while playing with my classic with ULT and level 10. The on/off pin does stick but just in case I've made sure it wasn't the level 10 by going to the next carrier and letting it leak down the barrel. If you shim the hell out of the ULT you will make it very reactive and its almost uncontrolable and has shoot down, this is too many shims.

What I have done to mine is polish the on/off pin on the ULT and switched to a small quad oring that cause less friction. This has helped but I still get some slight sticking because of the combination of the ULT and other trigger/sear mods I haven't had time to completly work out.

As for the question about if your using HPA, higher input pressure is supposed to help the recharge rate even on classics which "might" help with the pin stick a little.

[White_Noise]

i know ive seen threads of people with ult classics....i believe that inorder to get them to work reliably, they need something like the equivilent to 13 shims.

[autockr01]

Thanks a lot for your input everyone. I am running HPA, but unfortunately, it is not adjustable. I'm going to try to tighten my field strip screw with an allen wrench to see if that will help with the stick. 13 shims huh?? Yea, it seems that as I've been adding more shims, the trigger pull has been getting a little heavier, but i guess thats because the reactivity is increasing. But hey, if adding more shims will help with the stick, im willing to try it. I'll let you guys know my results.

[autockr01]

I've opted to buy more lx shims from agd. So far, i have the equivalent of 11ult shims in my ult. Waiting for more shims to come....

[BeaverEater]

I had like 5 lvl10 shims in mine and all the ULT shims and it worked great. I believe bad_dog has a thread with it somewhere just to lazy to look.

[BAMFSK]

I had the same problem which i was unable to fix at the field but when i got home and put just two ult shims in I dry fired it until the 4500 tank i was using was empty with no bolt stick i found that the stick did occur usally after i short stroked it so at my house i tried to repeat that but could not. At the field i would pull the trigger maybe 10 or 15 times and it would stick but at my house it went for 700 trigger pulls no problem. I have a minimag by the way

[mag-owner]

just to make sure, can someone give me the part number for the extra level 10 shims that i need? thanks. and one more thing, my classic valve is like a friggin tank, are there any negative effects if i put a ult in? i also have a level 10 in my mag.

[Asym]

LX shims (http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=292&categoryID=38)

[Bad_Dog]

this (http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=110976) should help ya out... :)

you might want to buy a few more lvl10 shims....

[autockr01]

Ok... so i finally got my Lx shims from agd. Now i have the equivalent of 15 ULT shims in there, and its working a lot better and reliably. The bolt isnt sticking as much which is a plus and its not short stroking as easily. Although the trigger did get a little stiffer (compared to when there was 11 ULT shims), the increased reliability is worth it. 15 ULT shims is a good number mainly because no more will fit in there, while still being able to put the valve in the gun (because it makes the ult bottom stick out to far). As a plus, there is a pleasant amount of reactivity in the trigger, but not so much to run away. Unfortunately, if i short stroke now, the bolt SOMETIMES gets stuck forward and vents. I'm thinking thats just a problem with my field strip screw and frame screw tensions. I think this is happening now because the bottom of the ult does stick out a little bit because of all the shims, and its giving the valve a little bit of angle. But again, i think i just have to mess with the strip screw and frame screw tensions to fix this.

[mag-owner]

i just got my ult in today and intstalled it, i got it to work within a few minutes. i have 13-14 ult shims. (this thing is great!!!!). i took my valve out and looked at the ule and i saw that my sear/pin assembly was putting scratches on it. (picture 1) this is not supposed to happen right?? so i checked my marker and saw some things....first i saw that the sear/pin assembly was a bit off center in the hole, it was leaning to the right. (picutre 2) and i took my body out and i saw that the metal square-thing that the screw is supposed to go into is slightly angled. (picture 3/4) i used a striaght edge to make the angle more visible. so what should i do? the easiest thing i could think of is to get a ule body...im planing on getting one any way...