New 'Mag owner... Questions.

[Boydster]

I recently bought an Automag Classic power feed left off of eBay a couple of days ago. The guy lived in houston like me so I drove to get it. I got the gun but that was it. I didn't get the movie or manual or the other stuff. Warpig's FAQ for the Automag said I could call AGD and re-register my gun and they'd send me all the stuff. Called them and they no longer register Classics because they are so old. In addition, they stopped making the videos 6 months ago.

I take it the video shows how to crack the valve open. I would really like to see someone open the valve on the tape before I do and have springs fly all over the place. Is there a website that has the Classic Mag video hosted anywhere? Is there any way I could see that movie at all?

I bought the level 10 bolt kit off of eBay and it came with a Reactor on/off which supposedly lightens the trigger pull. The trigger pull right now seems like 5lbs. Is that normal? I thought my A-5's trigger pull was tuff... How do I get that on/off in there? Does the entire valve/reg become accessible by just unscrewing them?

Some other post I read in these forums said that CO2 causes shootdown. In the online mag manual on Warpig, they say these valves will recharge three times a second. If you shoot faster than that you'll get shootdown. Through out that entire manual, they talked about using CO2. In that post I read in these forums, the guy said HPA will eliminate the shootdown all together. Is that true?

Actual questions are in blue. There was something else I had in mind to ask you guys but I can't remember it. I should remember it by my next post. Thanks for the help!

[TMAXXKING1]

i love this link ... hope it helps you and welcome to ao
http://www.airgun.com/downloads/valveexplodedview.pdf

[frop]

go to AGD (http://www.airgun.com) , you can find manuals there. look in the maintenance thread stickied up here for some good info. HPA does work wonders for shootdown, it's true.

[space_weazel_45]

Ok
1) As long as the gun is degassed and you have shot all the air out, NOTHING will fly out or off. The videos where digitized by someone and I have had no luck finding them recently and I just searched www.jayloo.com to no avail. The exploded view should provide all you need to know and we are all here to help. Given a little time I may be able to digitize the video and get you and others a copy but it may take a little time, pm so I can contact you when and if that occurs

2) The mag trigger is stiff, but snappy, you just have to learn how to shoot it, stay away from the reactor on/off it will only cause problems especially with the LX added, if it has a more open on/off top then you may be able to use that but it will only increase flow to the valve not lighten the trigger. Feel free to pm for more details about this.
The valve has a few parts the front [the bolt], the middle [valve], the back [the reg], and the on/off in the bottom. When you take off the front you have the bolt and the power tube which you will deal with when installing the LX [** read the LX instructions FIRST] and life will be much easier. When you unscrew the back from the middle you can fiddle with the reg seat which will wear out eventually not a regular thing. If you take the big threaded thing out the back part [the reg] you can change the reg piston or grease it you should rarely if ever need to get in here. Again any questions just ask, but ask first.

3) Mags can and have been run on co2, the co2 should have an antisiphon if mounted horizontally and the use of a regulator [set above 800psi] or a expansion chamber is recommended especially in colder climates. And since co2 expands slower at a lower pressure and changes due to relative temperature, it can be a hassle, HPA will help a great deal no need for an expansion chamber or a regulator, you gun wont "freeze" when shot in cooler temps and will work longer and better with fewer problems in the long run. co2 will wear the seals faster. HPA wont eliminate shootdown on a classic, the valve has limitations, but an RT, retro, emag, X valve wont have this limitation but is required to run on HPA because of it.

Bring on the questions.

[CaliMagFan]

geezz... pretty soon i'm gunna have to break down and digitize the classic video.... what format would you guys want?

i'll most likely do something like this: record vhs to digital8 tape via sony camcoder...DL that as DV info to my computer and edit it into chapters and so forth, change format and presto...

VCD or DVD i can make menus and all that jazz on both, but the DVD would of course be higher.... only those without DVD-rom on their computers would be out of luck. oh yes, and i would send copies for free, but it would be cool if you could mail me back a buck or 2 to cover cd/DVD cost and postage...

oh yeah, and i dont know if ther eis an RT vid... i never got one, but would be willing to produce one, but it wouldnt be official AGD.... i'm pretty good with my ule custom and would make a video to that effect. ---thoughts?

-kyro

[Boydster]

If anyone did make a copy of that video I'd be more than willing to send a blank tape and cover shipping or something.

So that's ALL the parts in the valve/reg? I'm looking in the link TMAXXKING1 supplied. Not near as many as I would have thought.

I guess I knew the trigger was stiff but I didn't realize the 'snappynness'. Now that I think about it, that snappyness is VERY snappy. So if the stiff trigger pull is normal, I can live with it because of the snappyness as you call it.

I won't use the Reactor on/off.


If you take the big threaded thing out the back part [the reg] you can change the reg piston or grease it you should rarely if ever need to get in here.
I thought that was an accessory. The velocity adjuster, right? I've only seen classic mags with the allen wrench type velocity adjuster. So that hand-twist-RVA is stock on some models?


3) Mags can and have been run on co2, the co2 should have an antisiphon if mounted horizontally and the use of a regulator [set above 800psi] or a expansion chamber is recommended especially in colder climates. And since co2 expands slower at a lower pressure and changes due to relative temperature, it can be a hassle, HPA will help a great deal no need for an expansion chamber or a regulator, you gun wont "freeze" when shot in cooler temps and will work longer and better with fewer problems in the long run. co2 will wear the seals faster. HPA wont eliminate shootdown on a classic, the valve has limitations, but an RT, retro, emag, X valve wont have this limitation but is required to run on HPA because of it.
I have an N2 tank just so you know now. I was testing my gun out I had CO2 running through it because I didn't want to run out of nitrogen. I was going to go play today but it's too wet. When using CO2(and N2) the Palmer Stabilizer is hooked up always so that should stop the liquid altogether. The online mag manual on Warpig says the Classic valve can recharge three times a second. Any faster and you'll get shootdown. Is that true???


geezz... pretty soon i'm gunna have to break down and digitize the classic video.... what format would you guys want?
DVD would be cheapest. Cheap medium to store stuff and it's light so cheap shipping. Though I would pay you if you have Paypal or something.

[Boydster]

What pressure does the gun operate the best at? How high can it operate without doing damage to the buit-in regulator? Lastly, is it safe to turn the built-in regulator all the way in and regulate the pressure solely from the palmer?

EDIT:That was my dad talking. He thinks my gun isn't shooting far enough. It goes about 75 feet and then drops off as usual. That's normal, right? The Palmer is set at 680psi and the RVA is in to about where I can't turn it anymore. I don't think I should turn the velocity knob all the way in. When it goes that far it becomes impossible to turn back out. I found while shooting it today that this has a lot of blow-back gas. I stuck a peice of paper towel over the hole and that blew far away.

Here, what pressure should I set the Palmer at? Then I could do the fine tuning with the gun's reg.

Does the level ten fix the blow-back by any chance? If it doesn't, is there a mod I can do to eliminate it?

[CaliMagFan]

set your palmer at about 800 if you can... the mags internal reg is all you really need... your Co2 bottle of course has 1 reg... that is what is putting the gas out at anywhere from 500-900psi.... then you have the automag reg that takes that 500-900 and cuts it down into the mid 400's to shoot... the palmer stabilizer should only be used to help filter out any liquid in the system and not to actually regulate the pressure down or up..

the way to see where the adjuster in the back of the marker should be is to shoot the marker over a chronograph and see if its shooting at about 290 fps... it if is, then you're in the right spot more or less.... you could turn your palmer stabilizer up ad infinium and it would not affect the speed/distance of your shots becaue the automag reg has the final say on what the operating pressure of the marker is...

tell your dad that its not an issue as to how far you think your marker "should" be shooting... its a question of if your marker is shooting within the legal limits-- UNDER 300fps---

ie.. you shoot at 300 fps and gravity accelerates matter toward earth at 16ft per sec^2... shooting level from your chest (approx. 5ft high).... fire the marker and the ball will hit the ground at ~5/16 (~1/3) a sec from the time of the shot, which is ~1/3 of 300 feet... so approximately 100 feet away... thats the ball hitting the ground, not the ball hitting something at the same level...

-kyro

[Boydster]

-So the ball should hit the ground at 100'? k I've been trying to tell him I'd change it if it wasn't shooting fast enough but he really want me to turn it up. I can tell it is going plenty fast enough.

-Is the RVA on my gun an accessory or is it stock? I've only seen the allen wrench type velocity adjusters and when I went to get this gun I was amazed becuase his listing didn't show the RVA hand adjuster. So do some models have that stock?

-Does the lvl 10 eliminate blow back? If not, do you know of a mod that will?

-Is the trigger normally stiff? I know if I got a double trigger, that would be far from walkable.

-The online mag manual on Warpig says the Classic valve can recharge three times a second. Shoot any faster and you'll get shootdown. Is that true???

-If somebody makes a video, why don't you put online?

- http://www.airgun.com/downloads/valveexplodedview.pdf Is that every part in the valve/reg assembly? Or is that the broad veiw? There's not very many parts there...

[space_weazel_45]

No the RVA was never stock it’s an aftermarket part, one of the few valve add ons that wont screw things up.

The max pressure that CAN be put in to the mag valve is 3000 psi, it says it right on the side of the valve, but the pressure going in to the classic valve should not be below 800psi, it can be but you may welcome a lot of problems. so just keep it above 800psi, any high pressure output HPA tank will work, you could put an adjustable HPA system on it but you don’t have an rt valve so you wont see any real difference.

Get the input pressure above 800psi and crony the gun to the speed you normally play at, and then install the LX and tune it, because if you change the velocity, you may have to adjust the LX to work properly, again read and understand how the LX works and how to install it first.

If you have the RVA that far in, that is causing a lot of the "blowback" if I’m understanding your description. The blow back wont affect the performance of the gun, so there no reason to try and fix it, again if I’m understanding you correctly.

A double trigger will help a lot but you don’t walk it, just fiddle with it and you will get a feel for how to shoot it, if you upgrade to an rt based valve you can start to bounce it kind of like a tippmann RT.

I don’t know specifics of the classic valve recharge but you should have no problem hitting 8 BPS

And yes all the parts of the valve are shown in the exploded view, it’s a very well designed system.

[Boydster]

-My Palmer is at 680 right now. Is that bad? Do I need to move it above 800? I thought the gun's reg would bring it down even further than that at first because of what this guy said...

set your palmer at about 800 if you can... the mags internal reg is all you really need... your Co2 bottle of course has 1 reg... that is what is putting the gas out at anywhere from 500-900psi.... then you have the automag reg that takes that 500-900 and cuts it down into the mid 400's to shoot... the palmer stabilizer should only be used to help filter out any liquid in the system and not to actually regulate the pressure down or up..

-The level 10 bolt is for Christmas. I had to buy it now because it was an auction. So I guess I'll make another post about that when Christmas comes along.

-This is what the manual says about the velocity drop-off....
Using Pressure Regulators
[36] All pressure regulators, by the nature of their design, cannot fill a chamber instantly. Regulators must fill most of the chamber quickly then taper off to reach the desired pressure. Chamber Fill on the 68AUTOMAG takes roughly 1/3 of a second. Because of the Regulator tapering off, when firing the paintball gun faster than three shots per second, the Air Chamber will not fill fully and the average velocity will drop by 10 to 20 fps.

-Is the RT valve tourny legal? The Tippmann response trigger isn't and this basically does the same thing.

-Can the valve or reg be damaged if the RVA is twisted in too far? I believe I've heard the Palmer can be damaged if it's screwed in too far. Is that true for either case?

[frop]

Yes the RT IS legal, if you set it up for no bounce. The primary effect of the ULT is to eliminate bounce(along with a nice light pull).

Damage by screwing in too far? Your valve will start leaking before you can cause any damage.

[space_weazel_45]

ok
the speed at which a regulator refills it mandated by the flow in to it, the slower the flow the slower the refill. put the palmer reg above 800 and forget it, period. you wont help anything by having it lower.

the tippmann RT and the Mag RT are not the same, the tippmann RT is designed to bounce producing an full auto effect, the Mag RT is designed to increase your rate of fire by pushing the trigger back in to the ready position faster, the bouncyness is a side affect of the system but it is nowhere near as bouncy as a tippmann RT at the standard pressures. the videos you see of rapid fire are generally with input pressures around 1100-1200psi from and adjustable system. Yes the Mag RT can be legal as long as it conforms to the one shot per pull rule, even with out a ULT if you have a fixed output tank, around 800-900psi you will find it hard to sweet spot, the bouncyness. this varies a little form valve to valve and trigger frames if you get an adjustable system you CAN lower the input on AN RT VALVE and keep the RT effect with out bounce. Or you can raise it and get lots of bounce. Most RT valve will cease to function around 650psi depending on set up.

no you can not damage the valve by having the velocity to high, assuming the reg piston is working properly it should vent around 300FPS its a built in safety feature.

[space_weazel_45]

look here for classic recharge info
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=158137&highlight=recharge
as for regulators start at post #15 andgod down, look at the graphs note the timelapse and imput pressures.
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=34429

[Boydster]

-So... Somebody said the recharge rate is 16bps on a Classic valve. The manual says three. What's correct?

-What does the power tube spacer kit do? It says it changes the trigger characteristics. Does that mean it lightens it or what?

-I keep hearing the word shims. What is that?

-I've never heard my gun venting. Is it a very noticeable noise? Could the RVA be hiding it if it's minute? Or am I doing good because I've never heard it? It's caused because of over pressure right? As in I would have the RVA in too far?

-I unscrewed the valve from the reg because my curiosity got the best of me. All I saw was a pin sticking out and a little square shaped oring over the pin. How do you get to the rest of the valve? And what parts wear out the fastest and are the prime suspects for leaks?

-Oh, hear's the question I've been wondering for days. If I have 2 90* connectors on the valve and VA, and I have a quick disconnect hooked on the valve's 90*, how long should the steel line be? 4 or 5 inches? I already have a spare 4 inch line.

[11_Mile_TMaster]

-So... Somebody said the recharge rate is 16bps on a Classic valve. The manual says three. What's correct?

-What does the power tube spacer kit do? It says it changes the trigger characteristics. Does that mean it lightens it or what?

-I keep hearing the word shims. What is that?

-I've never heard my gun venting. Is it a very noticeable noise? Could the RVA be hiding it if it's minute? Or am I doing good because I've never heard it? It's caused because of over pressure right? As in I would have the RVA in too far?

-I unscrewed the valve from the reg because my curiosity got the best of me. All I saw was a pin sticking out and a little square shaped oring over the pin. How do you get to the rest of the valve? And what parts wear out the fastest and are the prime suspects for leaks?

-Oh, hear's the question I've been wondering for days. If I have 2 90* connectors on the valve and VA, and I have a quick disconnect hooked on the valve's 90*, how long should the steel line be? 4 or 5 inches? I already have a spare 4 inch line.

Okay... one at a time

-The Classic valve, from my understanding, under ideal conditions, starts to shoot down at around 16 CPS. Here are the 'ideal conditions' I remember
At least 800 PSI input into the valve (have that palmer set at 800 or as high as it will go. If you have an adjustable nitrogen tank... Turn it up!)
Reg Seat in Decent shape (Don't unscrew the Valve halves too often. From what I'm told, It causes the Reg seat to not make the same seal as it did before, eventually causing shootdown)
Rest of parts decently oiled

-Power tube spacers can change the feel of a trigger minorly. However, the incorrect spacers can either cause Bolt Stick (Bad) or other problems (Still bad.) In general, the stock spacer is what you should use unless you're having problems.

-Shims are now used in place of Power tube spacers in Level 10 Bolt setups. Instead of switching out the entire spacer, you just add/remove a shim. They are also used for ULT setups, for a similar purpose.

-Venting out the back means the pressure is too high, normally, and is almost definately unsafe... unless certain other conditions are met. (i.e. older piston with Level 10 setup, etc etc)

-Reg Seats. As I said, good reg seats will prevent shootdown. In general... I've had my Classic mag for a year... I've used 1 full rebuild kit on it, it includes just about every seal you'll need. Uhh... As for disassembling the valve, too tired to detail that.

-Only one way to find out. Check. YMMV when it comes to hose setups.
Hope I was some help.

[Boydster]

-I don't see how I could get the pressure too high though. The Palmer is set at 800+ and the gun's reg brings it down. Would the gun allow me to screw the RVA in too much? How do you get the over pressure?

-
-Only one way to find out. Check. YMMV when it comes to hose setups.
Hope I was some help. Y what what what? Is that a hose chart like countypaintball's? Theirs doesn't have it listed.

[11_Mile_TMaster]

-I don't see how I could get the pressure too high though. The Palmer is set at 800+ and the gun's reg brings it down. Would the gun allow me to screw the RVA in too much? How do you get the over pressure?

- Y what what what? Is that a hose chart like countypaintball's? Theirs doesn't have it listed.


YMMV: Your mileage may Vary. People like different hose setups. It also varies a lot depending on whether you're using a Vertical Adapter, things like that. When I get hoses I usually take my gun to the shop, and just kinda make sure that I like the length of the run from fitting to fitting. You can do that without actually putting any hoses on.

And yes, You can get the pressure too high. I ran 800 PSI into my classic, had the adjuster in too much, and it was venting out the back. Backing it off did the job.

[Boydster]

-OK. Thanks. I now know I don't have it too far in. But it's pretty much ALL the way in. Maybe it's not venting because my Palmer is at 680psi?... If I turn the Palmer up, I'd then need to take the gun's reg out, correct?

-When I'm adjusting the RVA, am I adjusting the air flow or psi? Cause in the manual it says the gun brings the psi to 550 and is not user adjustable. If 550 is set am I only adjusting how much air will hit the ball in order to change velocity?

-If somebody would be kind enough to describe disassembling the valve, or give a link to someone that did, that would be great. :hail: I just need to know where and how to put all the orings and parts that come in the parts kit.

[11_Mile_TMaster]

-OK. Thanks. I now know I don't have it too far in. But it's pretty much ALL the way in. Maybe it's not venting because my Palmer is at 680psi?... If I turn the Palmer up, I'd then need to take the gun's reg out, correct?

-When I'm adjusting the RVA, am I adjusting the air flow or psi? Cause in the manual it says the gun brings the psi to 550 and is not user adjustable. If 550 is set am I only adjusting how much air will hit the ball in order to change velocity?

-If somebody would be kind enough to describe disassembling the valve, or give a link to someone that did, that would be great. :hail: I just need to know where and how to put all the orings and parts that come in the parts kit.

-Quite likely .Set your palmer to 800 psi and re-chrono the gun.

-YES. :rofl: Allow me to explain:
Your total 'flow' of air is going to be your pressure * the volume of the chamber. Therefore... Using a higher pressure means more volume will be in the chamber, more total air flow.
Now, as for the Velocity adjuster, You ARE adjusting PSI. The mag, on average, uses 400-650 PSI to fire the ball out at 300 FPS. This depends on paint/barrel match, length of barrel, things like that.

There are some similarly Designed guns that provided for velocity adjustment by the size of the dump chamber (Namely, the Armson Semi.)

-Still too tired to help with that one.

[Boydster]

-So if I have the RVA cranked in, I'm using more air? I thought it just compresses air or makes it squeeze thru a smaller opening.

-I shot my gun tonight and it shot two balls at once. Is that the result of short-stroking?

-Another thing I noticed tonight is if I hold the trigger, it'll make a watery leak sound for about a second and a half. Is that normal? Why the liquid sound?

-Is there a site dedicated to Automags like there is to 98 customs? (model98.org)

-I'm going to try searching for details on opening the valve...

EDIT: While I was searching(which didn't give any answers), I saw this in a stray thread.

Might want to check the orientation of the reg seat. Make sure it's the right side up. When I unscrewed my valve from the reg, that squarish oring thing popped out. Found it and put it back in. Gun still works fine but I guess I was lucky and installed it correctly. What is up and what is down?

Thanks.

[space_weazel_45]

Ok i'm not trying to be mean but, you need to listen to what we are saying and follow our instructions, a mag is a different system from every other type it has special issues and requirements we are trying to help but you have to listen and follow what we are saying,

if you want to know a lot of the answers to your questions, like how to disassemble the valve i am recommending you go to Paintball Maxx in Houston and ask for brad or someone else there will most defiantly know mags and the answers to all you questions.

http://www.paintballmaxx.com/main/

[Boydster]

Sorry I'm a nuisance. It's just I was over-whelmed with the complexity of this gun compared to my old A-5. A thousand questions and concerns were going through my head. If I lived anywhere close to a pro-shop, I'd be there; I promise. I'm trying my best to understand, believe me. I'm not officially in Houston. I live in New Caney which is about an hour away from the city. People know where Houston is and not New Caney. Please answer these last two questions and I'll leave this thread be. Thanks to everyone who has helped so far.

-I shot my gun tonight and it shot two balls at once. Is that the result of short-stroking?

-Another thing I noticed tonight is if I hold the trigger, it'll make a watery leak sound for about a second and a half. Is that normal? Why the liquid sound? One second, I put oil in the ASA but shouldn't the Palmer stop that from going to the valve? So it can't be oil. It can't be liquid CO2.

[guysdaman]

PM me, I have an old classic valve video I will send you for the price of shipping!

[Boydster]

Just PM'd ya. Thanks!

[space_weazel_45]

Its alright we are happy to help but after a few people including me told you to put the palmers at 800 and you were still saying it was at 650, it kinda be comes like :bounce: with our heads.
Its cool, ask away.

I would suggest replacing the ball détente with a new one for the double feeding issue they are here:
http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=2&categoryID=16
and go on the barrel.

This technique you can use to locate leaks in your gun should it do it.
When you hold the trigger back it shuts off the on/off assy. if you hear leaking down the barrel, you need to check and or change the o-rings in the on/off assy, if it stops as soon as you hold the trigger back check the power tube. So since when you hold the trigger back it still leaks check the on/off for a bad o-ring should no be to hard to find or just oil the crap out of it and that may stop it.
I don’t know if a palmers will stop oil from passing,co2 is a different monster. fix the leak and don’t worry about the girgling.

To reference a previous post, when you separated the valve from the reg and saw the pin and squareish round o-ring that’s what is supposed to be there. but the o-ring should stay on the reg it has two sides one slightly larger than the other, the larger side goes toward the reg and should kinda snap in.

Valve disassembly is easy look at the exploded view
http://store.airgun.com/images/product/large/lg_78.jpg
When you take off the bolt behind that in the power tube is the tip then the spring, spacer, or carrier[LX only]

There should be a blue bumper around the tube behind the bolt, behind that is the dump chamber but you cant open that so don’t bother.

The on/off if you pull it out of the valve from the top, oriented like this it goes from top to bottom[physically] on/off bottom[silver] on/off valve[brass], and in the middle is the on /off pin.

Moving to the back of the valve is the regulator, in between the two is the reg pin the pin with a spring on it, and the oring is seats on.

the regulator is made up of the reg piston, spring pack, and adjuster nut

OK NOW THE IMPORTANT PART
The only things you should ever have to mess with are the bolt and PT[power tube] assy. every now and then pop the bolt off and drop a drop of oil down the PT and put the bolt back on, and once in a blue moon you could do this the same time you oil the PT, pull the on/off out and put a drop in there. at that once in a blue moon time put some in the small hole on the back of the valve marked oil. every time you go to play before you gas it up at the beginning of the day, drop some oil in the asa or directly in to the gas line at the valve.
DO NOT play with the spring pack, you can replace it but don’t adjust it.

I think that about covers it, anyone else feel free to add.

[Boydster]

I kept saying 680psi because I haven't got around to changing it yet. It's changed now. Sorry.

Wow. Thanks. Now, I color-coded the diagram for reference. These are all of my questions. I've got no more. (Most are yes or no answers.)

-Does short-stroking cause double feeding if the ball can fall in fast enough?


Now for the valve....

-I opened the PT earlier today. All the parts came out. Just that last oring circled in red did not. How does that come out?

-Does the on/off assembly come out by prying the 'lip' on the silver part(blue circle) sticking out with a flat-head? Or do I get pliers and grab the pin? Will the other part(purple circle) in there come out freely once the outside part is gone?

-Is the spring pack the part circled in yellow? How is that adjusted at all?(I know you said not to. Just doesn't seem like it can be adjusted at all. And it doesn't look like a spring but that's the only thing I could come up with in the reg area.)

-When I took the yellow circle thing out to clean the crap out, the casing that that stays in didn't look like it would move at all. How does that come out?

-What is that thing under the reg circled in brown?

-When I get the lvl 10 bolt installed, does the spacer get replaced by the carrier? What's the difference if so?

-Point the reg piston out please. If it's circled, name the color.

- In the part "OK NOW THE IMPORTANT PART" part, what would need to be done with the bolt? There are no moving pieces.

-In the same section, the PT tip has a hole in it so all I do is drop oil in that hole and I'll be set? Or would it be better to take it apart and oil the orings better?

-When I put oil in the on/off assy., I pry it out and drop oil in or do I do a thoroughly oil the orings and parts?

-I was going to ask about that oil sign on the reg. My reg has oil printed on it but it has a line going to two holes. Do I put oil in both?

-I'll email the Palmer staff and let you know about the oil passing thru or not.

-Umm..., that's it. Thanks. Lots of questions, I know. That's would sum up about every question about the gun out there once these are done. I've got no more. Thank you for your help so far. Answer these if you dare. (They're short answers though.)

[LoveMyMagMoreThanYou]

[QUOTE=Boydster]If anyone did make a copy of that video I'd be more than willing to send a blank tape and cover shipping or something.[QUOTE]
I have the video and the tape says that it is ok to make as many copies as you want. If you want copies I would be willing to make them if you send the tape to me and cover shipping both ways.

[Boydster]

Let me see what happens between guysdaman and me first. (Look up.) If that doesn't work out for some reason or another I'll get in touch with you. Thanks though.

[space_weazel_45]

Short stroking could have caused the double feed but it would have had to be a really fast stroke.

That one will always and forever stick, because it seals the bolt which is a moving part and so it has to be tight, most people will hit a flea market or a surplus store for a dental pic, you can also make a hooklike tool out of any strong metal wire I use to use a coat hanger that I cut apart and bent the end, you just have to find some sort of poky pully tool. NOTE this is the o-ring to replace on a leaky Level 7 PT.

For the on/off avoid tools I can pull the on/offs out of all my valves by hand I just get a thumbnail under the lip. I suppose you could get a little leverage with a flathead under it but I would be careful and cover the blade with tape. Again you should be able to pull this out by hand, if its stuck and you have to pry it out once its out oil it good and from then on as long as its oiled it should come out more easly, the on/off valve [brass part in purple] may need the dental pic but for this as with the PT o-ring you can just slap the valve against your hand and I may fall out.

Yes the yelow circled thing is the spring pack, frankly I don’t know how you would adjust it but the original manual, and the AGD web pace cite this
“Not usually something that wears out. The Spring Pack comes as an assembly with all the disk springs organized in a special way. DO NOT try to take it apart! Keep it clean and lightly greased.”

As stated above you don’t need to service this and all the crap you cleaned off was probably predominantly the grease, so you will want to find out what kind of grease to put on it and re-grease it before gassing it up.
As for the thing it goes it that’s the reg piston, you don’t need to remove this unless it stops working IE.. you are shooting at normal legal FPS and its still leaking, either the oring has broke, its stuck for one reason or another, you are getting wild variation in FPS, or for another reason entirely it has stopped doing its job and should be replaced, with a spring pack. You can come talk to us about this should it be a problem or you can call agd and ask them, they are also always happy to help.
BUT to get it out, after you unscrew the reg from the valve get a small Allen wrench and push from the inside towards and out the back through the small hole in the middle of the oring. Be careful not to mar anything.

The thing circled in brown is the z lock pin the little metal bit stick out of your valve back that you have to line up the slot in the rail when you put the valve in, its there so if there is pressure in the gun and you undo the field strip screw the valve will pop back in to the stop in the slot in the rail keeping the valve from flying at you like a rocket.

Yes the spacer is replaced by the carrier the carrier, carries an oring and has another one around the outside of it and it is what allows the LX to work, please read the description here on how the LX works and how to install it I think this will answer a lot of questions and make the install easier, if you understand how it works you can install it correctly and fix it when and if it breaks.
http://www.automags.org/resource/level10/index.shtml

Reg piston circled in green.

The bolt is the moving pice the shaft in the middle of the bolt slides through the PT oring.

The PT tip is the brass thing on the fron that you can see with the bolt off, if the hole you are talking about is the big one the bolt shaft goes in then yes just a drop of oil in there every couple of cases, or more if it has a slight leak or is sticking the bolt, oil in those situations is just a temp fix. No need to take it apart to oil it though.

To oil the on/off pull it out put a drop on it and put it back in that’s all.

Yes a drop in each will be sufficient every 3-5 cases depending on use.
These are tentative lengths of time its more of if it feels like its time its time.

There is rarely a short answer with me :D

[space_weazel_45]

Also get some good oil, most will recommend KC trouble free, because its freakin awesome and the better oil you have the less work you do, you should be able to find it at most fields or shops, online or otherwise, or here http://www.kercon.com/

[Boydster]

lol I can see you don't like giving short answers. That's good though.

I was just going to ask what kind of oil to use. If I can ever get my hands on some, I'll use it. But I'm making a purchase from CountyPaintball.com soon and the only oil they offer is...Gold Cup Oil (http://www.countypaintball.com/product_description.asp?item=3297). Bad? Good? What about the oil on the APG site. Let me find it...Autolube (http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=89&categoryID=16)

-Is Gold Cup a good second choice?

-I know that rod inside the bolt doesn't move. Sure it goes into the pt but that's not independent movement. Do I drop oil on that rod?

I think I'm almost an Automag master. j/k Thank you for helping.

EDIT: I'm reading the KC oil web page and might just get some tubes of that. Sounds good.

[LoveMyMagMoreThanYou]

Also get some good oil, most will recommend KC trouble free, because its freakin awesome and the better oil you have the less work you do, you should be able to find it at most fields or shops, online or otherwise, or here http://www.kercon.com/
I&I sells KC oil. Only oil I've used for 10 years. Never have oring problems and is the only paintball gun oil I'll use........

[Boydster]

I looked on their distributer page and saw i&i had it and paintballgi.com had it. gi had it for 2-3 bucks less.

[LoveMyMagMoreThanYou]

I looked on their distributer page and saw i&i had it and paintballgi.com had it. gi had it for 2-3 bucks less.
That's good to know. Thanks!! I always like paying less for the best!!