Nissan SIL-80 Phase 1 Complete

[pumaking]

Well guys I finally was able to get my S13 front end conversion installed. I bought the conversion for about $530 and these kits usually go for about $1200 and those are bad conditions like dents and some fenders come warped. I got my stuff in prestine condition just needs to be washed etc etc. If anyone was wondering why there is a big gap in the bumper its because thats where the intercooler is going. I already ordered my Tail lights and they will arrive thursday so I'll get pics of that as well. During the installation we encountered a problem with the USDM bumper support aparently its too long so we removed it for the time being until we drill new holes and shave it off an inch to accomadate the length, but as for now its hanging by the fenders which is still fine just droops a little but you cant really notice it. As far as wiring goes most of it is just plug and play except for a few things like fog lights and corner lights. Anyways enjoy the progress. Hopefully within a month I should get rims installed.

BEFORE:

http://img12.exs.cx/img12/8033/240-2.jpg


http://img66.exs.cx/img66/2856/10130.jpg











AFTER:


http://img100.exs.cx/img100/2721/loosfront.jpg


http://img100.exs.cx/img100/6650/s13frontjulian.jpg


http://img100.exs.cx/img100/9210/s13side.jpg


http://img100.exs.cx/img100/3212/s13lip.jpg

[CaptaiN_JacK]

Would it be bad to say I liked the before front end better?

[HoppysMag]

i agree i think the silvia front end is nicer

[mcveighr]

I think there both ugly.

[LeatherPants]

Nice work on the Silvia front. The Sil80 is a love it or hate it look. I lean towards the regular front but Silvias when done right are nice.

Hope you have a SR under that hood as well.

[PyRo]

Would it be bad to say I liked the before front end better?
I agree, sell it and get $1200 for it.

[Dubstar112]

MM silvia. Do you plan on going drift spec and actually drifting? I want a Hachiroku... for tofu delivery! ;) lol.

Seriously if i knew where there was one for sale, Id take it in a heartbeat.


The very limited Sil-Eighty (S13 Silvia front, S13 180SX rear) was produced in 1994 because of this reason. There were 400 officially produced by Nissan -

[pumaking]

I like the way it looks and it was a lot of fun, anyways no this car isnt being made for drifiting it was a project I wanted to for a bit of time who knows maybe one day I'll take it out to drifit one time just for ****s and giggles. Anyways no I'm not putting a SR20 motor in there, its a nice motor and all but its over rated and its the latest trend. I decided to go with the CA18DET its a stronger motor and can handle things better than the SR20 b/c its a cast iron block so its bulletproof not to mention with the money saved I can use it to up the HP for example a Sr20 costs about $1700 and stock it produces 205hp and the CA18DET costs $1100 and produces 180hp with the $600 saved I can easily obtain over 250hp.

[PyRo]

For $1700 I can buy a whole 220hp camaro :)

[pointm@n]

For $1700 I can buy a whole 220hp camaro :)

There is a REASON why they are that cheap... :spit_take

[Gtask8]

For $1700 I can buy a whole 220hp camaro :)

Lol, ya there is a reason why their cheap

[skife]

There is a REASON why they are that cheap... :spit_take


because there are alot of them.
nothing wrong with camaros at all.

Go eat your rice.

[GT]

I cant see spening the time on a sr20 or the ca18. If you are going to spend the time the rb25 or 26 are great swaps. If you search hard enough you can find them for a reasonible price.

[RenagadeOfFunk]

i liked the 1st better...

[Dubstar112]

Cool. Im going through an incdedent right now to get my VR-4 Galant fixed. It can drift... on the right rally course.

Im going to set it up for rallying, and run the local rally from hicktown - to hicktown. ;). Ill see how the 4ws works and then decide on removing it.

My car is already "JDM" though. There was rice in the glove box. Only 2000 were imported in 1991, and 1000 more in 1992. Nothing other than the driver position and motor(v6TT for jap spec) was really changed. :(... Maybe Ill find more.

[pumaking]

I cant see spening the time on a sr20 or the ca18. If you are going to spend the time the rb25 or 26 are great swaps. If you search hard enough you can find them for a reasonible price.

Yes they are great swaps but its not an easy drop in like the Sr20 and CA18 a Rb26 swap can fetch you $7000 and produce about 330hp as opposed to me spending $1100 on a CA18 and parts an accesories of say like $4000 in parts I can still produce more hp with the CA18 and it would cost a few G's less not to mention with the RB long blocks there needs to be modifying of the car in order to fit.

[Dubstar112]

What do you plan on doing for suspension, rims and tires? Is your current motor turbo? I dont know alot of the motor stuff for Nissan... If it is do you use a turbo timer(what model etc.)? Is this a daily driver? I havent got around to doing that yet for my car, just looking for some advice!

[GT]

Yes they are great swaps but its not an easy drop in like the Sr20 and CA18 a Rb26 swap can fetch you $7000 and produce about 330hp as opposed to me spending $1100 on a CA18 and parts an accesories of say like $4000 in parts I can still produce more hp with the CA18 and it would cost a few G's less not to mention with the RB long blocks there needs to be modifying of the car in order to fit.


I could be wrong,
but nissian swaps are nothing like honda swaps, essentially requiring an entire front clip. Dunno, for me I would go for the 25/26. cost is always an issue, nice car :headbang:

[pumaking]

What do you plan on doing for suspension, rims and tires? Is your current motor turbo? I dont know alot of the motor stuff for Nissan... If it is do you use a turbo timer(what model etc.)? Is this a daily driver? I havent got around to doing that yet for my car, just looking for some advice!


For suspension not gonna go crazy but I found some a suspension kit for $500 that come with lowering springs and coil overs something nice, My current motor is a KA24E SOHC and doesnt have a turbo. When I do the motor swap it comes with a turbo Garret T25 which isnt that big but gets the job done eventually I'll upgrade to a bigger turbo since the CA18 can handle a lot of boost. This car will be a daily driver.

[pumaking]

I could be wrong,
but nissian swaps are nothing like honda swaps, essentially requiring an entire front clip. Dunno, for me I would go for the 25/26. cost is always an issue, nice car :headbang:

It depends on which motor you get for Example all RB series motors if your doing a swap into a 240sx than you need the front clip, if its a motor such as a KA24, CA18DET, SR20DET than you really dont need the front clip because most early nissan cars are actually interchangble so you dont need the front clip but it doesnt hurt either incase you need parts.

[LeatherPants]

The RB swap is not really a good swap in to a 240sx frame. The SR is much more balanced and was designed for the chassie to begin with. I have a couple friends who did the RB25 swap and are not that happy with it.

The SR has way more parts available to it compared to the CA. I wouldn't say the motor is bulletproof it has the same potential for damage like the SR. But the ease of finding upgrades is a big plus for the SR.

You do not need a complete front clip but it usually makes it easier. You will need the JDM radiator and brackets. Also if you are going the cheap route you will need the stock intercooler and piping as well as other misc parts. You can alter the USDM harness but it is easier to use the JDM one. You will also need the ECU.


I did a SR swap 3 years ago and at the time put on every bolt on part that HKS made for it. It was a beater car so I opted not to change turbo, cams or touch the block. The stock T25 pretty much maxes out on 1 bar of boost even with a FMIC. From there you run in to fuel issues with the stock injectors. I have my engine pic in another thread.

Ah I remember my car days. My friend used to import motors from Japan. I got a complete S13 blacktop clip for $1400 and a complete rear end for $50 (LSD). I never got around to building a S14.

If you ever have questions about HKS parts feel free to ask. There were my primary sponsor so I've pretty much used most of what they make from suspension to electronics.

[pumaking]

http://img22.exs.cx/img22/434/DSCN31.jpg

http://img22.exs.cx/img22/5449/DSCN30.jpg

http://img22.exs.cx/img22/4351/DSCN20.jpg

[skife]

if you really want good cheap power.

do a 350 chevy / 350 th swap

sbc parts are DIRT cheap, for the 7k you'd spend on that motor with 330 hp, you could have a 400+ hp 350 chevy.

[PyRo]

For 7k you better be getting more than 400hp out of a 350. With that buget step it up a a 400.

[pumaking]

if you really want good cheap power.

do a 350 chevy / 350 th swap

sbc parts are DIRT cheap, for the 7k you'd spend on that motor with 330 hp, you could have a 400+ hp 350 chevy.

or I could buy the CA18DET for $1100 put about $2500 into the motor and get around 500hp :D but my goal is only to get 300hp to the wheels.

[Dubstar112]

or I could buy the CA18DET for $1100 put about $2500 into the motor and get around 500hp :D but my goal is only to get 300hp to the wheels.


Well, atleast you have reasonable goals. Some people I know just keep trying to add power and dont know how to drive. You should tell them that its not all about 1000 hp :)

I have 195 crank ponies, my goal is 250 at all 4 wheels with out the use of nitrous. Im hoping that by eliminating the 4ws I will gain better whp, and by boosting around 20 psi (approx 1.5 bar) I will achieve this.

Pumaking, do you know what the stock 16g can boost?

(not intending to thread hijack- but this place is better than most car forums full of 15 year olds!)

[LeatherPants]

or I could buy the CA18DET for $1100 put about $2500 into the motor and get around 500hp :D but my goal is only to get 300hp to the wheels.


Actually $2500 isn't enough for those numbers. I'm just giving you an idea what it normally cost to build up. This is based on retail pricing on a range of HKS, Blitz and Apex'i parts. I'm guessing you will be doing all your own installation also. Most of this stuff is really easy to install either way.

FMIC- $1400-2000
Down Pipe- $120-250
3" Exhaust- $450-600
300zxTT Fuel Pump- $300
Intake- $100-350
BOV- $250-400
Additional AL Piping- $300-600
Boost Controller- $400-700

Basic total- $3320-5200

That's not even touching the turbo yet. That's pretty much the most basic setup for decent power out of the stock turbo.

[Dubstar112]

yieks!

why are intercoolers so expensive?

a radiator on roids!

Why would you want a v8?!? Whatever way he wants to build his car is not supposed to be right or wrong, its his car his build, his own way. :).

[pumaking]

you sure those are right prices for intercooler unless your including some extra stuff with that I dont know of b/c I've found Spearco intercoolers for $350 and Blitz intercoolers for $650

[skife]

yieks!

why are intercoolers so expensive?

a radiator on roids!

Why would you want a v8?!? Whatever way he wants to build his car is not supposed to be right or wrong, its his car his build, his own way. :).



why a V8?

sound/power/the ease of working on one/the price of parts.

you can get a decent cam for a 350 chevy for around $150
pair of good headers is $200
intake is 200
carb is 200
and you could be pushing 400 hp right there.

[Dubstar112]

Ok, now lets compare the weight of such v8 vs turbo charged 4 cylinder.

exactly.

woopee, my 2000th post.

[GT]

FMIC- $1400-2000
Down Pipe- $120-250
3" Exhaust- $450-600
300zxTT Fuel Pump- $300
Intake- $100-350
BOV- $250-400
Additional AL Piping- $300-600
Boost Controller- $400-700

Basic total- $3320-5200
.


holy chit, what kinda bling bling setup you pulling. If you really want 4-500 hp you are going to spend some serious bang. Bottom end has to built

[LeatherPants]

you sure those are right prices for intercooler unless your including some extra stuff with that I dont know of b/c I've found Spearco intercoolers for $350 and Blitz intercoolers for $650


The prices you got are just for cores not complete kits. You're not just mounting a core. You have to include the cost of your end tanks and piping. If you are not buying a kit who is doing your piping? You better have someone good do it or you will just end up choking up your system and losing power. Piping is VERY important when it comes to forced induction.

Spearco cores are very good. They used a plate/fin design I preffer tube/fin.

The prices I gave are for complete FMIC kits. Not all of them come with complete piping to the throttle body either. They will bolt up to the stock piping though. You should get everything done to hard piping and not rely on the stock plastic and rubber.

You also want to make sure that you size your core correctly. You will get a pressure drop if you go to big or run an inefficient core.

[LeatherPants]

holy chit, what kinda bling bling setup you pulling. If you really want 4-500 hp you are going to spend some serious bang. Bottom end has to built


Sadly that really isn't a BLING set up. I would call it a basic setup done correctly. This will also allow for bigger HP later if the turbo and block are touched.

Worse thing is to get a set up not ready for bigger HP and have to redo everything again later. It's just a waste of $$ to not do it right from the start.

[LeatherPants]

why a V8?

sound/power/the ease of working on one/the price of parts.

you can get a decent cam for a 350 chevy for around $150
pair of good headers is $200
intake is 200
carb is 200
and you could be pushing 400 hp right there.

I agree it is very easy and cheap to gain power on a V8. But it is a different kind of driving having a torque monster and a crazy zippy car.

Nothing beats the feeling when you hit peak boost and you have your wastegate vented to atmosphere. Flames shoot out from under the car and you start popping flames out the exhaust. It is fun.

HP is also relaitve to weight. Toyota Supras can generate HP very easily but it because of it's weight a 600 rwhp Supra will run the same times as a 400 rwhp Rx-7.

[pumaking]

Now leather pants since you already my goals of achieving 300-350whp utilizing the CA18DET what would you suggest in steps I should take to achieve the 300whp. One of the good things is using Rom Edit to remap the ECU and from I heard from CA18DET owners when they retuned the maps they gained some serious *** horespower while raising the boost for the stock turbos. Now heres my gameplan I'm currently working on cosmetics at the moment b/c I'm not really a crazed street racer or whatever this is gonna be a daily driver so my plan was to spend about $2500 on Exterior cosmetics which included S13 silvia front end conversion $600, Kouki Tail lights $495, and the rest in Body work like dent removal, weather stripping redone, tinting, and than lastly a paintjob. The reson I did my cosmetics first is because I got awesome deals on the stuff I saved about $800 on the front end alone, plus my Ka24E is doing fine really strong engine. Than after thats done time for the swap which the motor is gonna cost me $1100, installation will be done by my friend so its free, so that leaves me about $2800 with accesories like clutch, radiator, suspension, FMIC etc etc so whats your take on steps I should take to obtain the 300whp.

[LeatherPants]

Well first off if you want 350 whp you will have to upgrade to a larger turbo. The "golden child" is the HKS' gtsr turbo. It's a great size for responce and power. No matter what turbo you do go to you should do the following to get ready.

The reason why you need to swap turbos is even with a ECU the stock turbo will not give you the HP you want. The T25 otherwise known as the T Too small tops out at about 1 bar.

FMIC- There are many kits around. I think the Blitz kit is a good priced one. Good core and piping. Side note! Most FMIC kits require that you a) relocate battery b) use a smaller race battery. Odessy Batteries have smaller dry batteries that have enough power to daily drive and have a small system off of.

Fuel- You can opt for a 300zxTT or a 255 Warlboro. The 300zxTT is a drop in. Not sure on the Warlboro but it is cheaper and I do know alot of SR guys use it.

Clutch- I've always used ACT on all my cars. Great street clutch not the heavy and holds great.

Radiator- If you don't get it with the motor since the input/output is different on the US and JDM one you can opt for a Koyo. They make one for the SR which should work for the CA. It's a nice thick core about 2" thick.

Fan- Nissan uses a clutch fan which sucks. To help cooling you should swap it out with a electric fan. There are many companies that sell fans. I used a Fluidyne one I think their 14". I just used one. Hooked it up to a thermostat switch. Worked really well with the Koyo. Wasn't too expensive either.

Exhaust- I would wait till after the motor install to get this. If you get a US 240sx exhaust the piping will be 2 1/4" not big enough for turbo later. You will need to get a 3" exhaust HKS, Apex'i, Blitz and GReddy all sell their JDM exhausts here. A Front pipe(downpipe) is a must. HKS makes a cheap 120mm mild steel one. That's all you need.

All the things i mentioned about are a must and will allow you to build up on. You won't be able to get 350whp off the bat but at least you will have to parts ready for it. Worse thing to do is build something and realize it is not enough later.

If you have specific questions feel free to ask. I know i missed stuff.

[pumaking]

new tail lights are in.

http://img16.exs.cx/img16/4745/DSCN16.jpg

http://img16.exs.cx/img16/9797/DSCN0005.jpg

[HoppysMag]

that is one vecious looking dog

[LeatherPants]

Nice! Always loved those rears.

[HoppysMag]

evil!