The Better Benchy Mod

[KamikazePenguin]

The safety trigger stop benchy mod has the potential to screw up your gun, as it is a trigger stop that reduces the overall length of your gun by limiting trigger travel without changing the way the sear moves. This could cause problems with not competely pulling the trigger back and could cause choppage, burping or short stroking.

I just came up with a better way. Look at your trigger rod when the benchy fires, after a point it no longer goes back, but just goes up. What if the rod couldn't go up? only back? What i did was simply JB welded a metal sliver behind the trigger (inside the frame, had to take the frame off the gun to do this) and left just enough space between the bottom of the sliver and the frame for the trigger rod to slide through, so that the trigger rod couldn't go up and would go straight back when the trigger is pulled. The on/off is completely closed and the sear completely released, but once you pull it about the length of a stock mag frame (approx intella-length) it stops because it can't go any farther back, and because of the stop installed the trigger rod can't go up. This mod allows you to keep your safety and SAFELY reduce your pull length.

AGD tech, if there are any errors with this please let me know and i will delete this thread, but i believe this mod allows you to keep the appropriate sear travel and still reduce the pull length on the benchy safely, as opposed to the risky safety trigger stop method that can cause problems. I think this is a thread that it is really worth people's while to see.

[ShinyGuy]

Should work fine. I've never had any problem limiting the back travel on the trigger. You mostly run into problems if you don't release the trigger far enough. What I usually do is drill a #2 set screw sticking up out of the back half of the trigger next to where it engages the safety. The screw hits the bottom of the rail and stops the excess back travel. That gives you an adjustable stop that lets you keep your safety (safeties are good). Just be sure to locktite the screw in place once you get it set.

[cphilip]

This has already been done (in a much more professional way) and it does help a bit not not enough alone to just push the rod down. You need both down and something to limit travel all the way back. The limit travel back actually does more. I had a warped sports done Benchy that had a set screw installed in the back of the frame behind the trigger and another set screw coming down through the top of the frame to push the trigger rod down. Very nicely done and it eliminates all the slop. I got pictures of it if you like. Just sold the frame though to a member here.

[ShinyGuy]

The problem with set screw behind the trigger is that you have to drill and ugly hole through the back of the frame. As for limiting the vertical play in the trigger rod I've never really seen a good reason to do it other than to act as a sort of stop the way KamikazePenguin is thinking.

(in a much more professional way)
What makes you think my work isn't professional? Believe me, most of the work I do is much higher tolerance that a trigger stop. I'm not trying to start a flame war. That comment just came out as a little out of line.

[BlackVCG]

Puckz might see this and post pics of his Benchy on his RT, but what he did was notch the back of the trigger so when the trigger is pulled back, the trigger rod is held in the notch and not allowed to ride up on the trigger.

[cphilip]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ShinyGuy

The problem with set screw behind the trigger is that you have to drill and ugly hole through the back of the frame. As for limiting the vertical play in the trigger rod I've never really seen a good reason to do it other than to act as a sort of stop the way KamikazePenguin is thinking.

No you do not have to drill a hole through the back. You remove the trigger and then drill a hole through the front of the trigger guard and then on into the front of the grip and tap it for the screw. You do not go through the back of the frame. And I agree with you on the lack of need to control vertical play of the rod. I had a set screw for this and it was of minimal use. And in fact was a bear to adjust and then easily remove the Sear and rod. You had to retract the set screw to do so and readjust it every time. And I belive I indicated that I thought that was of little value in my response. So we can agree on that. I do however find the set screw behind the trigger to be the easiest (note the easiest part) and most useful method to accomplish the excessive trigger travel problem in the Benchy.

What makes you think my work isn't professional? Believe me, most of the work I do is much higher tolerance that a trigger stop. I'm not trying to start a flame war. That comment just came out as a little out of line.

I was not commenting to you or to your work. I was commenting to the Author of the thread. Sorry if I was not clear on that. In fact I found your solution to sound much more professional than the authors. And I was specifically commenting on his use of JB Weld for his Mod. I do not think JB Weld is a professional way to do it. Yours however is much better but perhaps more difficult to do.

OK?

[cphilip]

Here is a picture of the set screw which pushes the trigger rod down and stops it from ridding up behind the trigger. It is the bright Allen screw in the gap in the foreground before the sear:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=193146&a=10953897&p=45716966

And the trigger stop. There is a hole also in the front of the trigger guard that was drilled in order to drill into behind the trigger to make the hole for tapping and installing the set screw for the trigger stop. Also note in this picture the screw shown in the picture above has been backed out so it is not pushing the rod down as you can see at this time. But when in and adjusted it moves the rod down onto the hump of the trigger back and will not allow it back into the grove as it is in this picture:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=193146&a=10953897&p=38026253

[deweasel697]

cphillip, do you have a link to the site who did your benchy mod? Looks like something I'd want to do.

[cphilip]

No, I do not have a link as I do not think there is one. It was done by Warped Sports in the NY area.

[ShinyGuy]

cphilip: no offence taken. I can understand your reaction to JBweld.

As for trigger stop designs you still have a hole in the trigger guard and you have to remove the trigger. Once you remove the trigger its just as easy to drill and tap the trigger as the frame. The only real advantage I see to your design is that you don't have to take the frame off to adjust the stop, and if that's worth the hole in the trigger guard to you then go ahead. I just my design since nothing is visible once the guns assembled. (on a side note; if you tap the trigger you don't have to worry about scratching the frame when claming it. Not much of a problem with anodized parts but the pro-team nickle plating it pretty soft.)

[cphilip]

Yes idea certainly has merit. Also thinking that in combination Blacks suggestion of the notching the trigger to keep the rod down this could be cool. So this would allow you to combine the two ideas and do it all to the trigger. Seems like a nice idea to get an extra trigger and do it all to and then if you were to mess up you wouldn't be out much. Interesting huh?

[The Mad Painter]

check out www.g3pb.com i love this site for automags. got some good schtuff. go to tech projects under mag users. hes got the crap down in there. great benchy trigger stops. you dont even SEE it, and has pictures and step by step on how its done. just in case anyone else wants a simpler, cleaner way.

[KamikazePenguin]

gee, thanks for the support guys, really...

i just wanted to post a mod for the common benchy user that doesn't have money to blow on a professional set screw/sear stop job... Doing this alone has taken about half the travel off my trigger pull. (still long, but it's a lot better)

yes, there are better ways, but even if it's been done before I certainly hadn't heard of it, which leads me to assume many others hadn't either.

I wanted to help some people out with my random tinkering, so back off.

[cphilip]

Sorry Penguin. It wasn't ment to hurt your feelings. In fact I think you did everyone a favor opening up this discussion on ways to do these. Turning intoa great thread. I realy am sorry if it seemed I was overly criticle. I jsut call em like I see em and sometimes that comes on a bit to strong.

[KamikazePenguin]

no harm done, just wanted to clarify my position.

[Lord Vader]

Ok, good ideas, but, short of getting an intelliframe (see my thread in the classifieds :-D), what should I do to improve the pull on my benchmark single trigger? I am kinda limited in my access to tools.

[Paintchucker]

Not sure on that single trigger if you got enough room, but I used a flat head screw and a cap nut epoxied on the back of the trigger frame. Maybe if we found little tiny screws/cap nuts. That took care of the overtravel.

This weekend, I took the trigger pin out and after much fiddling, I got 2 tiny pieces of plastic between the trigger and the two sides of the frame. That took out the side to side play.

It is still not an intelliframe, but I did reduce the trigger travel by half from 25mm to about 10mm. I could probably adjust the cap screw and get it closer than that with a little more fiddling.

[Lord Vader]

I don't know if there is enough room on a 1x benchy to do that. Yours seems to work great though. Now, if I had a dremel, I might try than notching the trigger frame. Or, I could just save up for an intelliframe.

[Predater]

Originally posted by Lord Vader
Ok, good ideas, but, short of getting an intelliframe (see my thread in the classifieds :-D), what should I do to improve the pull on my benchmark single trigger? I am kinda limited in my access to tools.

yes you can put a trigar stop on a single trigar binchy. i drilled a hole through the triger guard and in to the fraim. then taped the whole. put the set screw in from the in side of the triger fraim. and wala.

P.S. i put the set screw in from the inside so i could adjust it exactly how i wanted it with it still on the trigar frame. all i have to do is take off the grips.