New Mag owner...

[DukeLuders]

Ok, there is alot of info here and I'm not sure where to start. I bought a Classic Automag last week and used it for the first time this weekend but there were several problems that I know I can fix with some mods. The first and most major problem was the CO2. If I switch to nitro, will it help fix ball speed consistancey and the freezing of my expansion chamber? Another problem I was having was short stroking. Obviously this chops balls but I'm not sure if its me or the gun that causes this.

The modifications that I have already include - Dye boomstick barrel, gas through forgrip, forgrip extender, and Dye double trigger.

I think the major modifications I need to do are Nitro and X-valve. What do you guys think? Also, please recommend something I can do to help my trigger action!!! :bounce:

[Rift]

if you are willing to poor the cash into getting an X-valve most deff do it, the great thing about that is you get a lvl 10 bolt with the valve which when properly tuned results in no choping of paint. Nitro is a must for this valve and is generally all around better then C02, if you do get the X-valve the trigger feel will be totally different because it is an RT valve (Reactive Trigger) and the trigger is actually being pushed back at you. Hope this helps.

[DukeLuders]

I think I will go with the X-Valve but is there a cheaper (price, not quality) alternative to it?

What about the ULE Trigger Pull Kit, is it worth it to buy it?

[Rift]

you might be able to find an RT Pro valve for sale here in the dealer forums or you can try contacting Tunaman for a nice price on a valve, thats basically the same valve as the X-valve exept that its not all aluminum. The ULE Trigger i would have to recomend trying before you buy it, because its not for everyone, some people like it and some dont, personaly i prefer the reactivity and chrisp trigger action of the RT style.

[DukeLuders]

Ok, thanks for the info. One more question, about Nitro, I don't know much about Nitro but why are tanks that are 3000psi so much cheaper than ones that are 4500psi? Which one would you recommend?

[Rift]

i would recomend an adjustable 4500psi high pressure output tank if you go with a retro valve simply for the fact that you will be able to tweak your trigger more then with a preset tank personaly i use a flatline 4500 but those have been discontinued, but are still available through Tunaman at a nice price, there are also plenty of other nice adjustables that are available to you the only other one that iv used is the Maxflow and those are nice as well.. I cant give ya a definative answer on why 3000 is cheaper then 4500 but im asuming because the technology involved in a 4500 reg is different then the 3000, but dont quote me on that =)

[i_baked_cookies]

if you are worried about the price though, as adjustable tanks are kind of pricy, go with a preset 4500. crossfire makes the best preset tanks out there, imo. a crossfire 68/4500 would be nice, or if you want a smaller, easier to hold tank, the 45/4500 is a very nice one. they only run like 180 i think.

edit- the reason for the price difference is that most 4500 tanks are made of wrapped carbon fiber, which is alot harder and more expensive to make than just a metal 3000 psi tank. the carbon fiber allows the pressure inside to be higher becasue of its strength.

[DukeLuders]

Wow! You guys know your stuff! You rock, thanks! :headbang:

Ok, I still don't understand what the difference btwn the ReTro and X-Valve are. Also, what is the difference btwn Classic Retro Valve and RT Valve?

[i_baked_cookies]

the retro valve is made out of steel. the xvalve is made of alumnium. alumnium is lighter and can be annodized (which is why the xvalve comes in a variety of colors). also, some retro valves have different oring placements in the on/off hole, which can affect whether or not the ULT can be put in.

i always thought the RT valve and the Retro valve were the same thing... someone correct me if i am wrong.

[DukeLuders]

Well, I'm thinking I might go with a 3000psi tank purely b/c of price. Is this not a smart choice? What's a good brand for a 3000psi tank? Also, what is hydro life? Is there a difference btwn hydro life btwn 4500 and 3000?

[B.A.M.]

no differece i think but i think the reason 4.5k is more than 3k is because the 4.5k needs to be stronger and so it needs more material and a better reg thus costing more

[frop]

certification & standards are the reason for the price difference. A 3000psi tank will handle 4500psi if in good condition. This is because the tank is actually certified to a failure point of 5000psi(4500 tanks go to 7500). However don't do this, I just like spreading useless knowledge...

[DukeLuders]

Ok, I'm understanding now. Is the 68 Mag a high pressure or low pressure gun? I see that most preset tanks come set at 850psi. Is this right for the mag? Why would I want either low pressure or high pressure?