Should I cut the front off my Tac-One body for my CCM/Stiffi Barrel.

[automikey]

If you use the CCM/Stiffi kit with bore sizers, the barrel can come unscrewed from the bore sizer and leave it inside the marker. The bore sizer has holes in it so it can be removed with a tool if this happens, but on the Tac-One the front of the body is extended and covers the bore sizer completely, so the holes cannot be reached. I had to put my T1 body in the freezer to shrink the metal, then just about broke my finger trying to get the sizer out. But it worked.

So if I bring my marker to the machine shop across the street (how lucky is that!) and have them remove the first 1.5 inches of the T1 body in the front, I will be able to access the bore sizers when they get stuck. Or maybe I will have them cut an access groove for the bore sizers, and leave most of the front intact.

Does anyone have any comments? Have you had a similar problem?

[MindJob]

Freezer? Shoud have heated it up. The cold causes the metal to contract, the heat causes it to expand.

...and no, dont cut your body for a barrel. Barrels come and go. Maybe get a cheap strap wrench to remove the barrel with.

[frischtr]

Freezer? Shoud have heated it up. The cold causes the metal to contract, the heat causes it to expand.

...and no, dont cut your body for a barrel. Barrels come and go. Maybe get a cheap strap wrench to remove the barrel with.


The freezer would cause the threads on the barrel to contract in on itself... The contraction of the T1 threads would suck them towards the rest of the body, away from the barrel, meaning they would separate...

[trains are bad]

It's not a cocker. Don't use the bore sizers or use a barrel without them. I don't see the point if they are that short anyway.

[craltal]

there are 4 holes set 90* apart from each other and you couldn't reach any of them?

[urbansix]

yeah - I was always wondering about that: If you heat a torus (donut) shape or thick tube, making it "expand" does the material (1) expand about its center of axis of the material (the ring half way between the inner & outer diameters) thus get thicker with a larger OD and smaller ID; or (2) does it expand about the center axis getting larger both ID and OD? Technically a donut shape is a cylinder with the ends connected, or a tube is a slab with 2 sides connected, so I would think (1) is the answer. Guess I should have payed more attention in physics.

[frischtr]

yeah - I was always wondering about that: If you heat a torus (donut) shape or thick tube, making it "expand" does the material (1) expand about its center of axis of the material (the ring half way between the inner & outer diameters) thus get thicker with a larger OD and smaller ID; or (2) does it expand about the center axis getting larger both ID and OD? Technically a donut shape is a cylinder with the ends connected, or a tube is a slab with 2 sides connected, so I would think (1) is the answer. Guess I should have payed more attention in physics.


Yes, #1 would be the result of heating the torus, however the result of cooling it would be the opposite of #1, a smaller OD, and a larger ID...

[purple]

sorry to hijack but i'm also wondering about the ccm barrels, and hammerheads and all the new sized bores lately, whats up with the teensy sizers? i thought the freak or equation or evil pipe are what's required for length, not like a itty bitty short sizer

Purple

[White_Noise]

Yes, #1 would be the result of heating the torus, however the result of cooling it would be the opposite of #1, a smaller OD, and a larger ID...


wrong, upon heating, a torus acts just as if it were a cylinder and would therefore only expand outward, making both a larger OD and ID.

cooling would cause both smaller OD and ID.


so if you want to make it easy to get the barrel piece out, then you need to either just cool the bore sizer, or heat just the body.

[trains are bad]

IMO the sizers are there for autocockers, which you should know need a tight paint match to prevent roll outs. That's it. On an open bolt marker there is no point to a 1" sizer IMO

[automikey]

I've now realized that I can cut a vertical groove in each side of the body, about 3/16 wide and 3/4 long, and that will allow me to slide a thin rod through the body and into the bore sizer holes enough that I can free it up if needed.

[automikey]

IMO the sizers are there for autocockers, which you should know need a tight paint match to prevent roll outs. That's it. On an open bolt marker there is no point to a 1" sizer IMO


I might agree with you. I think the short sizer is to keep the weight down and also for style. A closer paint/barrel match is always better for air efficiency and accuracy, so it's good for that reason. But the small size has created a problem.

The CCM/Stiffi barrel, by the way, is very accurate and quiet. Similar to a freak kit but lighter and quieter.

[frischtr]

wrong, upon heating, a torus acts just as if it were a cylinder and would therefore only expand outward, making both a larger OD and ID.

cooling would cause both smaller OD and ID.


so if you want to make it easy to get the barrel piece out, then you need to either just cool the bore sizer, or heat just the body.


No, metals expand outward in all directions, and contract inward from all directions from the center of the metal... A torus does not act as a cylinder from it's center, but rather, as a long cylinder bent into a circular shape, therefore expanding inward and outward when heated (larger OD, smaller ID)... I have to look through my physics books, or find a good source on the web somewhere, and I'll post a link...

Sorry for turning this into a physics thread... :rolleyes:

[11_Mile_TMaster]

I might agree with you. I think the short sizer is to keep the weight down and also for style. A closer paint/barrel match is always better for air efficiency and accuracy, so it's good for that reason. But the small size has created a problem.

The CCM/Stiffi barrel, by the way, is very accurate and quiet. Similar to a freak kit but lighter and quieter.


A longer control bore, however, will also lend to better efficency. That's why I prefer my powerlyte kit to my evil pipe... the control section is longer. I don't know how much of a benefit there actually is, but 1 inch sizers seem to be bordering on nonsensical.