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View Full Version : Got ULE body....



Boydster
01-20-2005, 08:06 PM
I finally got the body. When I went to install it, i noticed the twist lock assy would interfere. I can get that out I'm sure but this is where the question comes in. That twist lock is what goes into the front of the grip frame to keep it straight or whatever. If I take that twist lock out, what will be there to keep the grip frame from turning? Thanks.

rb211
01-20-2005, 08:09 PM
Just tap it out from the bottom. I doesn't take much force to pop it out.

Little_Ho
01-20-2005, 08:35 PM
Hi
if you have an ULE Body you need to remove your Twistlook assy. The Trigger frame will be held by the Frontgrip screw. The other question is, if you have a Cocker threaded Barrel. If you remove your twistlock you can not use the Twistlock Barrels.

Boydster
01-20-2005, 08:44 PM
I forgot about that screw lol. That would hold it.

Y'all are answering questions I never asked....

I do have another question though. How far are you supposed to screw the ball detent in? My friend with a Cocker screwed it in until it stopped and his bolt ended up breaking it. It was loose to where a simple tap would turn it out and it would spin freely. I noticed that this ULE body has an oring on it. I guess that stops you from screwing it in too far? When do I stop screwing it in? Hand tight? Thanks.

Tunaman
01-20-2005, 08:53 PM
They dont have to be that tight. Just snug. Hand tighten only. Use an oring to space it out far enough so that the bolt doesn't hit it. Check for proper clearance with the body off and drop the bolt in there. ;)

Boydster
01-20-2005, 08:55 PM
Thanks Tuna.

Boydster
01-20-2005, 09:19 PM
Wait a second. The bolt shouldn't hit the ball part in it or the bolt shouldn't hit the actual metal part of the detent? I've only had Tippmanns and a Classic Mag so I'm new to this whole 'real' ball detent thing.

I thought my friend's detent broke because the bolt hit it?.... idk

So should I tighten it by hand nearly as tight as possible? Not incredibly tight but almost there? Should the bolt hit the detent ball around the middle of it?

AGDlover
01-20-2005, 09:52 PM
you bolt should just barely push on it to push it up but not to grab it and rip it out. (note i learned this the hard way.)

Boydster
01-20-2005, 10:10 PM
Is it supposed to hit it near the middle or a little closer to the tip than that?

CaliMagFan
01-20-2005, 10:23 PM
just run your finger on the inside of the body where the detent protrudes in... if you can feel any of the metal that is part of the detent then you need to back that puppy out... if by backing it out you cause it to be too loose, then you'll need to bust out your lvl X kit and take the black O-ring off the outside of you largest carrier (just whatever carrier you'll probably never use) and put it on the detent so you have 2 rings on there.... now that should let you tighten the deten down without having it stick the metal (non-ball) part into the path of the bolt....

in case it all blows up on you... they're angel threaded... have fun
-kyro

Boydster
01-20-2005, 10:32 PM
Thanks CaliMagFan. So the proper position for it is right where the edge of the detent's metal part is flush with the wall of the body?

CaliMagFan
01-20-2005, 11:04 PM
Thanks CaliMagFan. So the proper position for it is right where the edge of the detent's metal part is flush with the wall of the body?

flush or even just slightly outside flush.. you just really dont want the metal protruding into the body... i hacked the hell out of my first detent and had the wire lodge in between the wall of the body and the bolt so i had to beat the thing to move anything... not fun... you'll know if the detent is not far enough in when you get double feeds... but so long a a little bit is in the body, you're pretty much safe.

-kyro

Boydster
01-20-2005, 11:21 PM
Alright, thanks.