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View Full Version : Car Nuts- I need help!!!!!



slateman
11-13-2001, 07:32 AM
Ok. I own an 86 Nova (stop laughing) The guy at the shop says it starting to burn oil and it would barely fail the emisions inspection. Is there anything I can do that could help clean up the engine so I could pass? I need this car so I can get to work and make money for a new car.

One option somebody suggested is to get an oil change and then head right over to get inspected. Any others like this?

shartley
11-13-2001, 07:38 AM
Yes, that might help a bit, but you may want to also put in some engine restore stuff (nope I am not a mechanic.. LOL), I have found that for quick fixes they do help a bit... but don't last like they SAY they will.

Sounds like you may need a whole seal and gasket replacement. Again.. I am no mechanic. And if that is the case... you will have to do it sometime anyway.... unless you don't want to keep driving you car.

slateman
11-13-2001, 08:05 AM
I only want to keep the car for a max. of six months. What is "engine restor stuff"?

And your right, I need a valve replacement. Wann take guess how much thats gonna cost....$1200:eek:

shartley
11-13-2001, 08:13 AM
You can pick it up at any Car Parts store. They come in bottles (and cans)... like oil. They supposedly help rework life back into your seals and stuff, stop leaks, etc... Like I said, it has helped cars of mine in the past for short amounts of time, but it does not last long. But again... I am not a mechanic. ;)

Snappy
11-13-2001, 11:06 AM
Another option I've heard (never tried) is to put a bottle of Everclear in the tank. Alcohol does burn cleaner, but the person who told the person who told me this works may have been sharing the Everclear with his car. :p

PigSweat
11-13-2001, 11:33 AM
K, DON'T put alchohol in the car! It burns much hotter and thus you can easily burn out rings and gaskets that aren't designed for those temperatures.

What I do recomend (although I'm no mechanic, yet) is change the oil, add an engine restorer (Z-max, Slick 50, Duralube, Prolong, etc, I recomend Z-max, I have used it and the stuff kicks!), then go right to your emision test dealy.

Man, that makes me glad I live in Alberta, Canada. No emmissions laws!

Ityl
11-13-2001, 12:41 PM
Lucas Oil is supposed to help too.

thecavemankevin
11-13-2001, 12:48 PM
put sugar in your gas tank, that will do the trick :)

just kidding, if you put sugar in there you will blow your engine

You might want to use a synthetic blend oil and a engine restorer when changing your oil.

I have had great luck with Quaker State Syn Blend in my 85 s-10.

MagMan5446
11-13-2001, 08:02 PM
1200? Save up and buy a new engine.

slateman
11-13-2001, 09:22 PM
My mechanic said he could get a new engine for $1500 or under but there is another problem. The struts are pretty crappy, I can't go above 70mph without scrapping the bottom. Not that I do that often but that would cost more I could probably get another car with those two things. I need some quick fixes guys. But thanks for the advice, keep it coming.

Army
11-13-2001, 09:31 PM
Be sure to burn at least half a tank of premium before you take it to get it tested. That and Restore should pass you.:cool:

shartley
11-13-2001, 09:36 PM
Struts should not cost THAT much.... How much do you like your car? If you really like it, you can get a rebuilt engine dropped in and fix your struts FAR cheaper than buying a NEW car.

I would do the quick fix for the moment, and then drop in a rebuilt as soon as you can. Yes dropping in a rebuilt often costs about the same or LESS than having an engine overhauled.... depends on who you know and use.

If you really like your car, you will always kick yourself in the rear for letting it go. And you can trust me on that one. :(

slateman
11-13-2001, 10:23 PM
Army: What's "Restore"?

shartley: That's the problem. My Dad bought the car new. It has over 177,000 miles on it. I grey up in that car so there is some sentimental attachment to the car. On the other hand, it is a piece of crap. It has to be warmed up... even in the summer otherwise it doesn't work well. I have no right side mirror (wasn't required). And to top it off the canvas on the cieling came off.
It's a piece of crap... but it's my piece of crap:D

seekandestroy
11-14-2001, 06:35 AM
something to think about i only paid 5,000 for a 79 vette in extremley good condition

tazman
11-14-2001, 06:50 AM
You can try synthic oil, or a heavery grade of oil, The Restore that every one is talking about might work but I don't think that it will. If the car has to be warmed up even in the morning I would suggest that the day you have to have it inspected let the car run for a while and then make sure it is up tp operating tempature. When you get to the smog test do not shut your car off leave it running as long as you can.

When does the car burn the oil, when it first starts up(there will be a small puff or cloud of bluish smoke and then it will go away), Or does it burn it all the time(same bluish colour in the exhuast)

Depending on where you are(I know here if you spend I think about 4 to 500 buck on repairs then they will let you pass for one year)as for the way the test is run where you are I don't know.

slateman
11-14-2001, 08:27 AM
Originally posted by seekandestroy
something to think about i only paid 5,000 for a 79 vette in extremley good condition

How old are you and how much was insurance?

I'm 19, I have this feeling that insurance would be more thatn the car.

tazman: When I start the car alot of blue smoke comes out. Once it warms up, the smoke goes away.

boggerman
11-14-2001, 12:26 PM
First off, alcohol burns colder than gasoline. However I am not sure what the effects of alcohol would be on your old, tired engine. One bottle to a tank full of gas probably would not hurt anything(HEET gasline antifreeze is mostly alcohol). The suggestion to leave your car running when you get to the emissions check is not a bad idea, most often leaking valve guides will cause the puff of smoke when you first start your car, by leaving it running you may keep the oil from accumulating on the valve. Good luck.

tazman
11-14-2001, 03:02 PM
If alot of blue smoke is coming out when you first start the car try a heavier grade of oil (15w40) or try synthic oil. also Check your spark plugs if they are oil fouled change them the day before you go to your smog test.

It sounds like the valve giudes and seals are gone, as for magic potions that will help you pass, I don't know of anythat help with passing the smog test.(All they ever do is lighten you wallet).

I hope this helps you out, and go luck, Let me know how you make out.

bofh
11-14-2001, 05:17 PM
OK, little trick I use to get my twenty year old Jag thru emissons. (I burn about a quart of oil every 500 miles)

Drop about two gallons of denatured Alchol in the gas tank. (A hardware store will have in gallon cans.)Get a heavy oil in the car. I use 20w50. Stop by your local pepboys and look for some additive like "Motor Honey" It's a oil thickening agent. Use it. Drain it out after the test. Empty the gas tank if you can, or burn a lot of fuel, you don't want the alchol to be in the fuel lines long.

Take a nice long, hard drive before you get to the station, and try to go when you won't be in line for long.

That's what normally works for me, and my engine is pushing 310k miles...

On the other hand, and fairly nice used car doesn't cost that much... 5 Large would buy a really, really nice car, 2g would do pretty good, that's what my average car price has been and normally keep them about three years...

XR4
11-14-2001, 06:01 PM
I know what I'm talking about, I'm a mechanical engineering student (that's the degree I need to design cars) and I've been all around cars my whole life.

First don't use synthetic oil. Yes, it is god's gift to lubricants and can handle higher temperatures than conventional oils, but it can find leaks better than conventional oils. Synthetic oil doesn't burn any cleaner than conventional, but you may end up burning more of it. Use a heavier grade of oil, at least 15W50. Don't get too hung up on the exact number, just make sure its high (thick.) Without changing your oil you can buy stuff to make it thicker. I think its called 'Motor Honey.' Other oil additives won't help. Oil additives supposedly improve lubrication. You don't have a lubrication problem, and who knows what that stuff will do in the emissions test when it leaks into the combustion chamber and burns (not what it was designed for.)

Don't put any alcohol in your fuel. Lots of reasons. (yes I know gas already has alcohol in it, I mean the stupid "add this potion" to your fuel crap)

Other fuel additives, I remember seeing some bottle at the local K-mart that promised you'd pass your emissions test. I thought that was funny because here in Michigan we don't have one. Many people have told me the only fuel injector cleaner type product that works is Techron. I can't remember who makes it, but its in a black bottle with blue and red stripes with 'Techron' in big letters. Even if it does help, I don't know if it'll make the difference.

Go to the emissions test with the car through warmed up. Catalytic Converters are your friend for passing an emissions test. They work by being warm. If you show up cold your car should fail regardless of the oil leak. By warm I mean go drive it for half an hour, don't just let it idle for a few minutes. Of all the things I've mentioned, this is the most important.

Spark Plugs, if they're old changing them may help. You can do it yourself and its cheap. Just regular spark plugs are fine, the fancy ones won't help you.

High grade gasoline, maybe it'll help, but not much. FYI Premium Amoco has the sulfur removed for better emissions. Sulfur in gasoline makes lots of nasty emissions, but no American emissions test looks for them.

Replacing the Oxygen Sensor might help. If you're really burning a lot of oil the old one may be coated. The O2 sensor sits in the exhaust pipe and measures oxygen to see if the computer is sending the righ amount of fuel. Changing it can be difficult if its old and well rusted to the exhaust, the part is about $40. If you've got other problems that point to a bad O2 sensor like a check engine light, noticably poor gas mileage, or rough running when warm then you may want to think about it.

When I was 17 I looked at an old RX-7. Not too expensive, but the insurance was more than the car after less than 2 years. Bought a Merkur XR4Ti a few months later and never looked back.

Later,
XR

tazman
11-14-2001, 07:21 PM
First off syntetic oil doesn't burnt I know this because It is my job, I have never seen synthetic oil burn. As for leaking the jury is still out for me on this one(I run it in my old caviler and it leaked worse, but when I put it in the wifes caprice that leaked oil about 1 liter every week it is down to leaking about 1 liter ever two to three weeks, I really should fix it but I do that all day long and the last thing I want to do is fix my own junk for free at night). I have seen other vehicles that leak oil and burn oil switch to the synthetic with good results, But it is up to you.

Zumina
11-14-2001, 09:05 PM
Try Engine Restore. It reconditions seals and makes a crappy running car run better. I just put some in my 89' Corsica with 198k on it, and it's runs 10x better. Yes, switch to a heavy weight oil and use an additive like STP Oil Treatment or something of the like. But, I would seriously entertain buying a different car. Even if you're down on cash, an acceptable alternative can be found. After all, there's no assurance that your seals are going to last much longer, and before you know it you'll be replacing spark plugs and intake manifold gaskets every 100 miles.