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View Full Version : X-valve chops alot...



calcan311
02-09-2005, 01:02 AM
Hi, long time reader, first time poster. Anyway my mag chops alot when I hit above 13 bps.
It starts to chuff when it hits 16 bps fullauto. I have had alot of practice tuning my lx and have set them up for other people as well. I have a feeling that mabey it could be due to a low output pressure from my tank.

my set is
x-valve
ule body
crossfire 68/4500 hp
gas through grip
halo b
mongoose 20bps frame (spydermag)
ult 6 shims
lx #2 carrier, red spring, one shim

Also, does a higher input pressure make the ult on/off lighter to pull, or just more reactive.
If I get a logic vert frame I want to be able to walk it.

athomas
02-09-2005, 10:16 AM
Welcome to AO.

The higher input pressure increases the reactivity of the trigger. It is the chamber pressure that affects the force required to pull the trigger. Since the chamber pressure is always the same for a given velocity in a gun setup no matter what the input pressure is, then the trigger force is also the same no matter what the input pressure is.

Are you chopping balls or is the level 10 chuffing on them once you hit above 13bps? Are they barrel breaks or chops? How is the paint to barrel match?

Little_Ho
02-09-2005, 01:22 PM
Hi
what kind of loader do you use???
For some reasone it sounds like you maybe need a faster loader???

Hope thats helps

calcan311
02-09-2005, 02:54 PM
I am using a halo b v35

calcan311
02-09-2005, 02:57 PM
It seems as if the valve is running out of steam, it does this when dryfiring. My tank is fixed at 650 which is low for a mag. They are diffently chops, paint in the feed neck. I am using an AIM barrel kit and a Stiffi .691. . Do you think that a higher tank output will solve this problem?

Lohman446
02-09-2005, 02:58 PM
My guess, and I have seen it very often on open bolt markers from various manufacturuers

The Halo is feeding the balls past the detent at high speed, and your blowing balls through each other.

Take the Halo apart and lube the belt - I used the spray lithium grease - I beleive Cyclo part # C34. This will allow the belt to slip earlier on the pulley and hopefully not double feed. Also, check your detent and make sure it is fairly strong. I, in addition, turned my victory board down, and admitted I likely wasn't shooting 30BPS - I set it at 17BPS, lubed the belt regularly, and kept in good detents and seldom chopped with it then.

Chronobreak
02-09-2005, 03:21 PM
My guess, and I have seen it very often on open bolt markers from various manufacturuers

The Halo is feeding the balls past the detent at high speed, and your blowing balls through each other.

Take the Halo apart and lube the belt - I used the spray lithium grease - I beleive Cyclo part # C34. This will allow the belt to slip earlier on the pulley and hopefully not double feed. Also, check your detent and make sure it is fairly strong. I, in addition, turned my victory board down, and admitted I likely wasn't shooting 30BPS - I set it at 17BPS, lubed the belt regularly, and kept in good detents and seldom chopped with it then.

i agree completely.

aslo you COULD be shortroking it and the valve may also need a tad more working in.

welcome to another 311 fan :D :dance:

athomas
02-10-2005, 12:11 PM
It seems as if the valve is running out of steam, it does this when dryfiring. My tank is fixed at 650 which is low for a mag. They are diffently chops, paint in the feed neck. I am using an AIM barrel kit and a Stiffi .691. . Do you think that a higher tank output will solve this problem?

The valve running out of steam is probably a result of the low pressure output of the bottle. An X-valve chamber pressure is quite high when using a level 10 setup. The result is a low pressure differential between input-operating pressure. The low pressure differential results in slower recharge times.

The chopping could be the Halo pushing past the detents. That could definately contribute to the mess.

Have you tried the longest bolt spring? You may have a setup that needs it. The problem is that you will exagerate the recharge problem even more. You should try to see if you can get or at least borrow a higher output tank for testing purposes.

calcan311
02-10-2005, 03:17 PM
I am not short stroking, because I am using an electronic frame. My ball detent is good. I will try greasing my halo drive belt. Have tried the longest bolt spring, gun barley fires. I sent my tank out to crossfire to have the out put bumped up to 900 psi. I was also thinking of mabey putting my level 7 bolt in to increase my recharge rate. Do you guys think that shooting fast enough to the edge of shootdown could be a cause of chopping

Thanks for all the tips.

Little_Ho
02-10-2005, 07:05 PM
Hi
i agree with the other guys, maybe your Halo is force feeding to much and you have 1,5 or 2Balls in the Barrel. It is possible.

Check your Halo, maybe just to try slow your Halo donw and see if you have the same problems.

athomas
02-11-2005, 07:44 AM
If the gun barely fires with the long spring (did you increase the velocity settings?) then the middle spring should work. Its rare that it could chop paint. Are you sure the paint is good?

calcan311
02-11-2005, 11:51 AM
Yes I turned the velocity up. What I ment is the gun would shot above about 10 bps with the long spring. I use PMI marblizer, and Evil premium. It happens with every case I use. I have shot about 10 cases through my x-valae now. When I keep the bps below 10 I never chop, with all three springs. I alway lube my on/off, power tube, and the bolt before playing. Clean and relube after playing. I really think my problem is with the low tank output at high bps. I will also lube the drive in my halo, and add some more shims in lvl x.

Lohman446
02-11-2005, 02:54 PM
Is it possible that the mongoose frame is "shortstroking" at higher rates of fire?

calcan311
02-11-2005, 03:35 PM
I Am Sure It Is Possible The Mongoose Frame Could Be Short Stroking. We Shall See After I Try The Other Things I Listed Above.

athomas
02-11-2005, 05:52 PM
Try putting a squeegie against the front of the bolt face and pulling the trigger. You should get a good idea of how hard the bolt is pushing the ball. If it is soft, the next step is to look for sharp edges inside the breach.