EBlade Users!

[Carbon Blue]

Hey! i know this is a mag forum but i figured id post over here where there are more intellectual people instead of pbnation. I currently have a dye reflex autococker with an e1 eblade on it with a nexus ram and dual eclipse qev's. My question is the damn thing wont stop bouncing. I played around with the set screws but it still wont stop bouncing at all. The setting are on factory fast with an input psi of about 350.

[SpecialBlend2786]

all the e1 eblades that i've used have had bouce, not really sure how to cure it :(

sorry, good luck though. Bouce seems to be a huge problem with the older eblades. The e2 seems to have fixed most of the bouce issues though.

[nastymag]

yeah ...thats what the E1 ones are known for ...try setting the activation point closer to the middle or start of the pull. up the debounce settings ...uhh lemme see. cant think of anymore .

i cant get mine to bounce on one trigger pull, but it defently bounces when i am walking it, not huge amounts but enough for me to notice.

[frischtr]

Use the trigger filter in the timing menu... Up the time for the tpul (trigger pull) and trel (trigger release)... Keep upping the time and play with the trigger stops until it won't bounce anymore...

~Tim~

[hobbesTZ]

Play with the filter settings until they are right for your gun. Get a lighter bolt if your stock is aluminum. You can also use the samurai trigger to help eleminate bounce.

[kurama]

I saw an interesting cure to e1 bounce today. Costs about 1$, some soldering, and some superglue.

http://www.air-powered.com/index.php?act=ST&f=16&t=24050&

[tippmannsniper-]

alright here we go....

lpr= TURN IT DOWN

trigger= make the magnet decently hard but still comfy and set the actication point out a bit so that it fires RIGHT before the set screw touches the frame and pretravel must be atleast 2 mm

settings= coff must be a little high like 24 and for the filter put your release high

thats all i got but the trigger is the most important

[joez]

I saw an interesting cure to e1 bounce today. Costs about 1$, some soldering, and some superglue.

http://www.air-powered.com/index.php?act=ST&f=16&t=24050&

Beat me to it!

You can do that, and there is also a thread floating arround here about using some shrinkwrap tubing arround the part of the trigger that breaks the opto beam, but i cant seem to find it.

[Snertz]

Yea, I was about to post that link to the thread on AIRpowered, but kurama beat me to it. I'm the one that did the mod to my eblade, and it works great. If you want some more info on how to do it, just PM me!

[shatter_storm]

e1 frames will always be bounceable - unless you replace the opto switch with a microswitch like snertz did you will not be able to completely get rid of bounce.

That being said, a long pull with strong magnets will lessen it a bit. Leave some post-travel as well.

[Carbon Blue]

alright here we go....

lpr= TURN IT DOWN

trigger= make the magnet decently hard but still comfy and set the actication point out a bit so that it fires RIGHT before the set screw touches the frame and pretravel must be atleast 2 mm

settings= coff must be a little high like 24 and for the filter put your release high

thats all i got but the trigger is the most important

im new to eblades but not cockers. The blade didnt come with a manual so how would i go about making the magnet stiffer?

[joez]

Vertical screw in the top of the trigger. Closer to the magnet stiffens it up, further away softens it, kinda,

[Carbon Blue]

thanks ill try that

[tippmannsniper-]

just take the the allen wrench and holt it around the set screws it will stick to one of them

[FSU_Paintball]

tippmann sniper got it right.

[FallNAngel]

alright here we go....

lpr= TURN IT DOWN

trigger= make the magnet decently hard but still comfy and set the actication point out a bit so that it fires RIGHT before the set screw touches the frame and pretravel must be atleast 2 mm

settings= coff must be a little high like 24 and for the filter put your release high

thats all i got but the trigger is the most important


You may also want to add "remove QEV's" to that list as well.

[phantomhitman]

You can also use the samurai trigger to help eleminate bounce.

a saurai will def add bounce. it is lighter, and for some other reason it is really really hard to kill bounce on. i have installed a few of them, one on my eblade also, and had to set them for tournie use. it took about an hour for each gun. i did use the trigger filters a little, but even that would not cure it. ihad to make teh triggers magnets stronger, to the point were i lost most of the speed of the eblade. you can only turn the lpr down so much before the marker does not cycle, and teh only way to kill the kick of the ebalde is lighter parts. also, why would you take off the qevs, or was that a sarcastic comment?

so save up some cash to get that cocker cycling smoother and faster!!

[FallNAngel]

The QEV's make the backblock and bolt assembly move different... "harder" is kinda the word I'm looking for. Since there's very little resistance with the cocking assembly moving back and forth, it moves in a much more deliberate movement, which can add to mech bounce. At least, so I'm told. It makes sense to me and wouldn't surprise me if it were true.

[phantomhitman]

but the qevs add cycle speed, so you will basically be slowing it down.....which is an interesting way to cut down on bounce ;)
you will reduce bounce, but you will reduce speed...whihc is mroe important :confused:

[minimag03]

E has a new board out called something like ZeroBounce. Try that if you have the money.

[tippmannsniper-]

^^ ya thats the e2 board made for an e1 has almost the same features as an e2 not all the features though

[FallNAngel]

but the qevs add cycle speed, so you will basically be slowing it down.....which is an interesting way to cut down on bounce ;)
you will reduce bounce, but you will reduce speed...whihc is mroe important :confused:

but you will also have the same cycle speed as before, but at a lower LPR pressure.

[phantomhitman]

maybe your right, im sure everyone knows mroe than me about eblades at this point...mine is not working :mad:
i thought for sure teh qevs released the air faster therefore helped the gun cycle faster. how would taking the qevs off let the gun cycle at the same speed as well as drop pressure. why would everyone in the world recommend qevs for a cocker also? please inform, this is not a srcstic comment.

[tippmannsniper-]

he doesnt know what hes talking about

[Flow_Tech]

Zero B board is th eonly way to go..or
GO RACE!

[barrel break]

www.air-powered.com
All your cocker questins answered.

[FSU_Paintball]

The QEV's make the backblock and bolt assembly move different... "harder" is kinda the word I'm looking for. Since there's very little resistance with the cocking assembly moving back and forth, it moves in a much more deliberate movement, which can add to mech bounce. At least, so I'm told. It makes sense to me and wouldn't surprise me if it were true.

Well, here's the thing... if you've got QEVs, what it does is increase your cycle speed. You're right about it feeling "harder" and that's because the thing moves back faster, and snaps closed much faster as well. So you're right in a way.

However, I used to own a Dye Ultralite, which is virtually *identical* to the reflex.

I had a delrin bolt, which helped a bit since it was a bit lighter in terms of moving mass, but I found that it was more desireable to keep the QEVs on there and instead mess with the settings a bit.

Also, I found that while the gun, especially with QEVs and high settings on, would bounce like a FREAKIN MOTHER when dry, was *much* tamer with paint in it.

I'd try putting your COFF around the 22-24 area, turning your trigger filters up, and making sure that your trigger is not TOO light, and that your trigger stops aren't sitting right on top of the firing point.

With my personal setup, I was tourney legal for World Cup and several other tournies with settings around COFF 22, trigger filters at 5 and 15, and a fairly light short trigger pull (but not REAL light or short) with the firing point in the middle. I had an ultralite, delrin bolt, nexus ram with QEVs and the stock trigger.



As far as the samurai goes... it completely takes the bounce out of some people's guns, and it adds more into others. Use at your own risk.