Hyperframe on/off question

[shorty24]

I just bought a Hyperframe, and it comes with a new on/off valve. After I installed it on my current valve (a 68 Minimag ReTro valve), I decided to test it without the Hyperframe. The gun shot extremely fast, and was fully reactive, or extremely close to being reactive (it's not reactive without Hyperframe the on/off in), I'm guessing about 18-20cps. But after about 30 shots, it stopped firing, and air leaked out the front as if the on/off did not reset or something. Could someone tell me if it is possible to use the Hyperframe on/off without the frame itself? Did my gun leak b/c the on/off is not supposed to be used alone? Or should it work, and something else is wrong with my gun (it works fine when the Hyperframe is installed)? I just thought it would be nice to tweak a little more performance out of the valve, while keeping the gun completely mech :rolleyes: . Thanks for any help!

[warbeak2099]

So the gun sticks and leaks down the barrel after 30 shots? I guess try oiling the on/off assembly and if you have a lvl 10, go to a larger carrier and oil that oring too. Also check the tightness of the rail and frame. Adjust the front frame screw and field strip screw so that they are screwed in the same amount. You also could just be shortstroking or low on air.

[openboater]

examine the sear and the bolt. you may find the sear worn and bolt chipped.

Hyperframes with certain older classics will not reset the sear fully , so it doesn't catch the bolt can trash both the sear and bolt.

I love hyper's and currently have 2 working perfectly, but have had this same problem with previous classics.

centerflag makes a real long on-off pin for these mags. but my suggestion would be a ULT.

there was a Hyperframe FAQ in the tech scetion of AO, some good reading.

when the marker was going reactive, that was the sear not catching the bolt on every recoil.

[Sk8ermog]

The centerflag on/off is not suposted to be used alone with any AGD or aftermarket mech trigger frame. It's made to be short and snappy because the noid hits the sear at the correct pressure and rests faster then you could with a mech trigger. The on/off got stuck cause it was pushed to far in and the pressure can't get it back out so it leaks down the barrel. I've tried several different mods to get the centerflag on/off to work in a classic valve, RT valve and X-valve. You are much better off getting a ULT kit with which you can tun it and adjust it to be set up correctly with any valve and mech trigger. I did find that with trigger stops and the right length pin in a RT valve you can go full auto consistantly and with a LVL10 not chop. I didn't have a Halo at the time I tried this so I never reached the full potential of what it could do. I'm sure with a nice HaloB and a suba tank hooked up to it you could shoot 36+ bps. There is a video of a guy doing it on the forum somewhere.

[hitech]

The on/off pin is probably too short. You most likely ruined the sear and/or bolt. The ULT is the best answer for an on/off with the hyperframe for many reasons. It avoids this problem and requires less force to move.

If you want, here is a link to my Hyperframe FAQ (http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=79328).

:cheers: