some general questions from new member

[autopsy]

I'm new registered member though I've read up here for a long time. Been really impressed with this vs. the pbn community. So props there for you all.

I'm in the market for a new gun. I've been playing for a couple of years. I'm looking for an upgrade over my Spyder Shutter with a teardrop barrel, all else stock. I want decent speed, not a big deal. (I'm looking at pneumatic trigger, if that's an option with co2 for the future) I play mainly rec ball but have the opportunity to play tournies which is what I would like to do.

I've been impressed with automags. I love the small build, the look...everything. However cost is an issue. Since it can be hard to get CA filled...what is the cost if I wanted to build myself a mag with-----

Ule body (deal at airgun.com gives free warp)
lvl 10
air/ classic? valve (so I can use co2)
intelliframe (comfort, dbl trigger, easier pull)

The other costs would be loader, expansion chamber, etc....My question is this...Where would you suggest getting these parts for me to assemble? Or would you suggest calling up a dealer like Tuna or someone else to build me a mag?

This is by no means my final decision...it's just what I want out of my mag (and let's not forget my purple colors to make my Purple-People-Eater-Muppet-Mower-of-Death) And I don't think I'd be disappointed. Know how I could get what's on my list, what I need for a working marker, for $400?

Thanks all. Also! With a warp feed, If I'm right handed, my right hand on trigger, left hand on foregrip, where would the warp be situated? On the left side of my marker in-between my body and marker or on outside? Thanks again. :)

[peewee]

I recommend that you hit the for sale area. A classic valve can be found for around $60 intelliframe $70 used dont forget you will need a body rail & sear assembly.

[shorty24]

New ULE ~$170, new lvl 10, ~$90; look for deals! - I got my used RT valve for $100, and have had it running perfectly for about 2 years now :headbang: . AGD ROCKS!!!

[jewie27]

It's going to be almost impossible to buy a new Mag with 400 bucks. I would recommend buying used parts if you only have 400 to spend. It's cheaper to build your own. My Minimag when it was stock and brand new, was $309 on sale. I still had to add a foregrip, drop foward, tank, and loader.

Maybe you would just get the ULE Body new.


ULE Body: $145

Intelliframe: $60 used

standard Automag rail: $20-$40 used

new sear and pin: $15 new @ store.airgun.com

Autococker threaded barrel - $50 +/-

Expansion chamber - $40 new

used Classic valve - $50 used

drop foward $30

All that comes to around $430

Then just get a Co2 tank.


I highly recommend that you get a 6 stage expansion chamber when using Co2 on a Mag. If you don't, Co2 will freeze the o-rings during rapid fire. You may want to run it off of a remote.

Also get yourself a Automag spare parts kit with all new o-rings. If you buy a used valve, oil it and test it out. If it leaks, change o-rings.


Keep your eyes on Ebay, that's where all the good deals are for used parts. Also post and look out for people "parting out" their Mags here on the AO classified forums.





http://c.myspace.com/00064/79/40/64580497_l.jpg

Here's my 5 year old custom modified Minimag. (LOL, the only thing that's 5 years old is the original rail, which I got powdercoated and ULE milled) My X-Valve is only a year old, The Y-grip is about 2 years old..


I'm right handed and the warp goes there.

[autopsy]

I found a sale on ebay that ends in 5 days. There might be a mistake..but it sells a minimag with hard case, no reserve, for one dollar. :)

My question....does compatibility change with time? Will the valves and sizes and threadings be compatible with old rails and frames etc.? Progressing from 2004-2003-2002 to I don't know 2000. Ballpark figures here, how old is too old to be compatible?

And if I'm buying the sear assembly, is there a complete kit at the store.airgun.com site?

Thanks again.

[Dryden]

For the most part, parts from Mags built in 1995 are interchangeable with parts from 2005. A few things to look for in cross compatibility is the rail/sear combination (RT Pro vs AM/MM) and RT Classic parts (unique to themselves, circa mid/late-90s). Modern Mag bodies, like the ULEs and Deadlywinds are Autococker threaded, while the older stainless steel bodies used Twist-Lock barrels unique to the Mag.

Read any eBay auction terms carefully and wait until the last day before you start bidding. There are a lot of scammers on eBay and any PB gear that sounds too good to be true probably is.

As for the cheapest route for what you want, I'd suggest trying to find a used ULE RT-Pro with the newer aluminum X/RT valve, then pick up a used classic valve in the B/S/T forums. You can usually score an old valve for under $50 shipped, and since the bolt/valve slide in as a single piece (one field strip screw), you can drop in all CO2 friendly internals literally in under a minute. Just mount the male end of a quick disconnect to a 90 degree elbow on each valve and it's a breeze to change, you won't even have to futz around with hoses.

Welcome to AO.