PDA

View Full Version : Machining Angel Threads



NakedMonkee
03-09-2005, 04:41 AM
I have an Automag Classic. Upgrading to X Vavle this week. Thought I would do some other mods. Also i'm thinking of getting a ULE with Warp Feed package. I read that the ULE's use Ball Detent Angel Threads. But I can not find out what the thread specs are on these! Here's why i'm looking. I work in a machine shop. I've found a 14" aluminum bar of 6061. I'm hoping to lathe this little sucker into becoming a super stealthed assassin ninja barrel! Back to business: I've been looking all day for the specs on those threads and ways on porting a barrel to minimize sound. Any help will be greatly appreciated!

NakedMonkee
03-09-2005, 08:32 AM
:hail: Or any directions to a thread that covers those topics would be saweet too!

my2crazyeyes
03-09-2005, 10:13 AM
I dunno if I understand you correctly, you are going to make a barrel for a Warp ULE Body? If this is the case, you need to find information about Cocker threads. The detent is machined into the ule body, this detent uses angel threads. The barrel however, is cocker threaded. If you have access to a machine shop, you probably have a tap and dye(sp) set, I would get a cocker barrel, (you will probably want extra barrels aside from your ninja barrel anyway) and you can figure out the thread size from that.

Hope this helps,

-Chris

GordDesigns
03-09-2005, 12:47 PM
So Angel ball detent was a pain to figure out.
I just spent a week waiting for the tap to do a dual detent on my Xmag breech.

You need a 3/8-28

Hope that helps.

Gord / GordDesigns :cheers:

NakedMonkee
03-09-2005, 09:07 PM
Thanks for the quick responses! :headbang:

http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=356&categoryID=10

There's the package...Ok so you were right the barrel is Cocker Threaded! DOH! Thanks for your help, guys. So then what tap am I gonna need for these Cocker Threads? I must be confused. What exactly is this detent? I'm lookin all over this site and some search engines and i'm coming up with nothing.

Here's the jist of my previous question. What are the specs for the end of the barrel that goes into a ULE mainbody?

AGD202
03-09-2005, 09:15 PM
the detend is thing on the side of the body where the paint goes into the body, it prevents double feed.... its right across from the feed neck

NakedMonkee
03-10-2005, 04:14 AM
The wire doohickey on the barrel? That's the detent? Odd thing. Ok so the detent on the Cocker Threaded barrel is an Angel Detent? And the difference between it and an AGD detent are?

undescriptive
03-10-2005, 04:55 AM
the angel detents are a little plastic ball on a spring held into a cup - on the ULE bodies they are nowhere near the barrel

the AGD detents are wire or plactic that is attached to the barrel (as the AGD barrels have the breech integrated into the barrel

if you have a ULE body, just BUY some new detents, if you have an AGD body, buy some new PLASTIC ones from AGD (or suppliers!)

ULE bodies have cocker threaded barrels too....

NakedMonkee
03-10-2005, 02:33 PM
OOOOOOOOOOH Ok :tard: I can be slow. Thanks! Anyone happen to have the Cocker Thread specs?

Cristobal
03-12-2005, 12:31 AM
Courtesy of Have Blue's Paintball Tech Ratsnest
http://airsoldier.com/~haveblue/tech/


ANGEL
ball detent threads are M10x1.00

COCKER
Barrel Threads are 15/16"-20
[Note: you'll probably want to cut your threads on your barrel a little undersize so that you end up with the proper major/pitch diameters after anodize]


Also, the ball detents on twist-lock barrels are commonly known as either plastic or wire nubbins, depending on what material they were made from (originally wire, later plastic). AGD also makes its own Angel threaded ball detents for use in the ULE bodies, which are known as AGD Angel threaded detents, AGD Angel detents, AGD Hex detents, or sometimes simply AGD detents (yay for confusion :D )

Siress
03-12-2005, 01:31 AM
What lathe do you have access to? I'm willing to be you would be happier with a cheap cocker barrel than the best that lathe can do. Very precise and smooth the bore must be. And before you try and jump down my throat I have worked in machine shops and I am a gun tech for The Angel Guy. So you could say I know what I'm talking about here. ;)

I'd aim for delrin parts. Maybe a delrin mag bolt?! GASP!

NakedMonkee
03-12-2005, 02:35 AM
Thanks guys, y'all are great help! :dance:
Actually my plans have changed. I have access to Manuals and Mazak Intregrex's but the new plan is to give it to my friends dad. He's a career machinist, longer than i've been alive. He works for Anco. They make wiper blades and odd stuff like that. But knowin' Bob, he'll know precisely what to do. If he doesn't, I THINK I do. Mind you i'm a new machinist i've seen the tools you've probably got in mind, I just don't know the names of em yet. If Bob doesn't do this I will. We have a tool that has cyclinder bearings in it that we use to press parts into a very smooth surface, we use em for cylinders. To check the smoothness we got an instrument that has this needle, looks like a record needle, and it drags the needle about an inch and a half across a surface. I'd press and inspect till the record needle do-hickey gets as low as possible. If that's no good. I'm up for suggestions.

Siress
03-12-2005, 09:40 AM
Needle Do-Hicky = Indicator

Good luck with your project. I suggest that you gradually widen the diameter around 5 or 6 inches down the barrel and start the small porting, like on a All-American barrel. they are very quiet.