Automag ULE Custom - gun shoots only once

[gotgemini2000]

I have an automag ULE Custom with a intelliframe, and a level X bolt that I purchased just recently from automag. When I air my gun off it generally shoots once or pressurizes the trigge once and then I am able to shoot once or rarely twice. Afterwards the trigger remains pressurized but the gun will not shoot. What should I do to fix this problem? I was told that perhaps I need an airtank with 45000psi rather than 3000psi, but I would rather just get my gun to work with the air tank that I have now.

[drx975]

(just realized you said ULE custom, not ULE trigger... but if you have a ule trigger or anyone else for that matter, in a regular valve, take a look at this)



Ok, well no, there is no need for a 4500 tank.. thats just more air (4500 pounds per square inch) for the same size tank, the output is still the same so it isnt going to affect the gun in any way. You can get it working with your tank you have right now.

I had my ULE trigger in my stock A.I.R. valve Minimag before I got an xvalve and got it working fine. Basically I think the deal is that with the xvalves, the trigger gets pushed back so resetting the on/off pin is much easier in an xvalve. But in a regular A.I.R. valve nothing really pushes on the on/off pin, and due to it being much more narrow in diameter, it is going to require more force than the gun was putting on the regular on/off pin in order to reset it. This causes the pin to not reset efficiently in a regular A.I.R. valve, which cant apply that extra needed force.

However, there are shims you can use to shorten the effective length of the on/off pin. This means that if the valve can move the pin just a little bit with that burst of air, you'll be good to go for the next shot. What I did was put as many shims in as i possibly could. I think I had 5 or 6 in there... I would say 5 or 6 should do it. Dont be worried if there is no play between the 2 halves, as there is when only a single shim or 2 is in there. I actually had so many shims in mine that it seemed thread locked and wouldnt come apart (I had to use a wrench). Try this out and let me know how it works.

Im not positive on the my theory of why this works, but mine worked well....just make sure you keep that small white oring at the bottom (most toward the inside of the valve) really well oiled, and replace it often. Also it helps to put in a bigger bolt spring and up the velocity as this seems to allow the pin to reset better.

[nippinout]

You can try a few things before buying a new tank that you don't need.

This is most likely a LVL10 problem. Try turning up the velocity adjuster. What spring are you using? You can try dropping down a spring. I run the short spring without any problems. Try lubing the o-ring inside the LVL10 carrier.

Good luck!

[logicmag19]

did u lube her up like nippin said? id do it if you havent. it used to happen to me but now since all my stuff is broken in i dont have to lube her but i do to be careful.

[fifthmag]

I agree with the post above, I've just worked through a similar thing with my new RT ULE w/ ULT (see thread RT ULE stops dead after 5 shots). I discovered a litle stick in the on/off bottom which I suspect was causing the marker to simply stop, despite pressure on thetrigger. This I rectified by manually working the on/off by gently grasping the on /off pin top and working it up and down through the on/off bottom until it moved easier, lubed the crap out of it and hey presto works a treat. All the rest I believe will be down to breaking in the rings and good lubrication. Hope this helps, Wayne.

[gotgemini2000]

I solved the problem for the most part except for the fact that now the gun leaks air at about 100-200psi per 5 minutes. I tried different combinations of 0,1,or 2 washers in front of a 1.0 brass fitting in the bolt but none of them seemed to do much. What should I do? I have been shooting oil through the gun on a fairly reguar basis as well but it doesn't seem to do much either.

[fifthmag]

Sounds like you need the .5 carrier. As when you started, use the .5 without shims to start and retune, using the same o ring from your 1.0 carrier if possible.