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kickass68mag
11-18-2001, 07:44 PM
well i traded my mag away today :( but here is what i got let me know what you think

99 cocker
ANS quick pull venturi bolt
chrome gen-x back block and beaver tail
shocktech 3-way
shocktech ram
shocketech expansion chamber
ANS jackhammer II
black-ice unireg
RATT valve 2
KAPP hammer kit
benchmark 45 frame
madman springs
polished trigger plate and sear
ss screws
flathead timing rod
KAPP pump arm
ss ball detent
KAPP cocking rod
32* stickies

i ordered a freak today so i should be alset

I am open to suggestions to what you all think i should change, but the first thing i am doing is getting rid of that god awful purple bolt !

And by the way i traded straight up for a polished minimag with chrome dye 2x frame, chrome forgrip, armson barrel, and ans bolt

Sqweezer
11-18-2001, 08:18 PM
What kind of drop is that?

FooTemps
11-18-2001, 08:23 PM
I heard that the freak system for the autococker doesn't fit well. The fit is said to be too tight so it's almost impossible to remove.

SuperOrangeTicTac
11-18-2001, 08:35 PM
Originally posted by Sqweezer
What kind of drop is that?

kapp drop zone2, in P&P anno.

boggerman
11-18-2001, 09:03 PM
You know that you are required to leave the AGD sticker on your revvy!! :D

blembiggity
11-19-2001, 02:35 PM
sell out, naww jk. nice gun even though its a cocker

synreal
11-19-2001, 02:43 PM
Foo
Its not so much a matter of the fit being to tight, the issue i have seen is that since the front pneus on cockers stick out past the back of the freak you may have a problem unscrewing the front half of the barrel from the gun rather than the entire barrel, since you half to unscrew the system by holding the front half of the freak.

wyn1370
11-19-2001, 02:58 PM
You can change a cocker freak with the front section still on. So all that he has to do is take the barrel off to change sleeves. I don't even take the front section off of mine anymore.

synreal
11-19-2001, 03:05 PM
i agree completely, i was just posting the only beef that i have heard about the freak/cocker combo

FeelTheRT
11-19-2001, 03:23 PM
looks... flamboyant... your Revie, elbow and cradle are blue while ur bolt is purple and ur barrel i silver.

Mild 7
11-21-2001, 08:32 AM
Hey Kickass and everyone:

I don't use my cocker anymore since my RT keeps me content. I got that cocker in '96, yes, it's old. The only upgrade I got on that gun is a Vigilante Reg and a palmer pursuit rock reg, runnin on CO2.

I need you guys to throw some ideas around for me.
Is it worth it to upgrade a '96 cocker?
How much would it be to get everything Kickass got, please give an est.?

Russ
11-21-2001, 12:07 PM
Take the gauge off the black ice reg. That's NOT a port to read output pressure! They're both input ports. Mount the gauge, with an elbow directly on the front block, That will give you the output pressure of the reg, i.e. operating pressure.

DC Nelson
11-21-2001, 03:29 PM
Looks good.
Russ is right, you either want to put a gauge on the front block or tap your asa and put it there to get your running pressure.

Im going to be getting some stuff from agd along with a few stickers... im going to put a nice big agd sticker on the side of my cocker. :)

For mild 7:

I currently use a 93/94 cocker myself.
The main things are a few obvious things:
the pneus need to work
the hoses should be replaced (if they are original)
etc etc, basic mainting

Now, to the stuff that actually helped.
I replaced the valve and hammer kit.
You can now get much better flow valves than what were available back then, and the hammer kits are much smoother and lighter.
The back blocks are much more cut down now, so you dont have to use nearly as much pressure in the pneus with the newer lighter blocks as you did with those old BLOCK blocks.
I actually use the stock back block, and just chopped the top off and drill the center out, and made a hole for a newer (shorter) cocking rod to fit in.
If you dont have one, an adjustable cocking rod is nice (cant remember if they were adjustable on the 96).
And for the MAJOR difference, i opened up the flow in the body. strip the body down, and look in the air chamber (where the front block screw in to). I drilled out the passage hole and the air chamber area to get better flow thru the marker (just make sure you leave enough of a lip to put the valve spring against).
That REALLY helped me a lot! get a lot better flow to the valve, and can run a lot lower pressure without the need for an air chamber in the front.
Basically, you can make it currently competitive for under 100$ and some time in the garage.

Hope this helps.
DC

kickass68mag
11-22-2001, 11:59 AM
the guage on the reg was to see how much air was going into the reg, the kid had a adjustable tank on it, and wanted to know how much air he was giving his reg, i am getting a new front block prolly a chrome one and will have a guage put on that, along with a new ans x2 reg