help me decide (another what gun thread)

[master_alexander]

i never thought i would be doing this but i just can't decide.

right now i have :
rt valve with double bounce
z grip
45* asa
luke's drop
warp
revvy

and i want a new gun becuase this one is too heavy (i am a strong kid too, and now my bicep hurts) I have the oppurtunity to get:

vert micro emag with:
armson barrel
1.37 software
level 10 and parts
kapp cradle
LP nitro tank (68/30)

price: $620

emag with:
warp right (not ule)
clear warp
12v and switch
led mods
12 in all american barrel
8 ich armson barrel
lvl 10 and all parts
charger
extra o rings

price: $550

micromag
stock micromag
extra armson barrel

price: $200

if i got the micromag i would put in my rt valve, get a vert frame as well.

so i like them all and in the order i would want to get is probably the non ule emag, then the micromag (my valve is double bounce) then the micro emag.


so i am in a sticked wiget (lol) what to do? discuss, add comments, talk me out of it, whatever.

[warbeak2099]

The micro-e is overpriced. You also can't use the tank it comes with if it's lp. lp usually means 300-500psi output. A mag needs at least 650-700psi. I wouldn't pay any more than $400 for a micro-e with only v1.37 software. Offer the guy $400 w/o the tank for the micro-e.

[CKY_Alliance]

wouldnt the emag be heavier then your current set up?

[master_alexander]

wouldnt the emag be heavier then your current set up?

how?

[personman]

Micro emags are pretty heavy, and so are non ule emags. Probably just as heavy as your current setup. Get an all ule emag or a ule custom if you want a light gun.

The micromag is not much lighter than a ss mag.

[Duzzy]

If it is an older E-mag it will have extra metal on the trigger frame, a non-ULE battery casing, a SS body, E-mag valve, a heavier rail, on top of the twist-lock barrel, probably heavier than what you are using now. If you ULE everything, probably noticably lighter, however, I want to say the one you have listed will be heavier. Plus if weight is really an issue then the warp will add on about a pound. Not that much but like I said, if you want light, that E-mag might not be the best choice. That said, I would take it over the others. Get BlackVCG to ULE the rail if he still does that, save for a ULE body. Stuff like that.

[master_alexander]

how much would it cost to ule the emag?

[CKY_Alliance]

Ule body is $145 getting framed ule'd out iono

[magman007]

get rd of the warp if your setup is too heavy. honestly, thats part of your biggest problem in having a heavy setup. drop it and you will see a difference

[master_alexander]

i like the mag in this thread (http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=169962)

that would be a good goal i think.. but warped (i will always use a warp)

in that case if annything i would get the warped emag.

:edit: and if i got an emag or the other battery housing i would do my own led mod so that when i pull the trigger it will lght up.

[Duzzy]

i like the mag in this thread (http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=169962)

that would be a good goal i think.. but warped (i will always use a warp)

in that case if annything i would get the warped emag.

:edit: and if i got an emag or the other battery housing i would do my own led mod so that when i pull the trigger it will lght up.

Good luck putting an LED in a battery casing that is actually on an E-mag, I honestly don't think that there is enough room.

Nice link but which mag? There are two, one is an E-Tac and the other is a PnueMag. I assume you mean the E-Tac but clarification is nice.

A completely ULE E-mag will set you back quite a bit if you are upgrading, buying a ULE E-mag would probably be cheaper in all honesty.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=170268

This is expensive, but cheaper than ULE'ing a non-ULE E-mag in my opinion. $145 for the body, $30 for rail milling, I don't know who would mill the frame but it would probably need to be re-anno'ed when it was done, so $120 for anno, $70 for a ULE battery casing... Get the point? And then if you wanted an X-valve...

I know what you mean about the warp, I love mine, but if weight is a problem the Warp may not be the best option. If you do get rid of the Warp, Ricochet hoppers are a must, I get killed without them when playing with a CF Marker.

[magman007]

i like the mag in this thread (http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=169962)

that would be a good goal i think.. but warped (i will always use a warp)

in that case if annything i would get the warped emag.

:edit: and if i got an emag or the other battery housing i would do my own led mod so that when i pull the trigger it will lght up.

well if your going to stick with a warp, dont complain about weight.

[master_alexander]

i have an idea, i'll play with a pump :D

no, jk

i think i'll go with the emag, i can just deal with the weight, but i really wnat the pneumag frame to come out...

so a tac rail, emag battery casing, and a pneumag vert frame, cool... but talk about fast!

But then again it might be cheaper to jsut get an emag.

[Duzzy]

i have an idea, i'll play with a pump :D

no, jk

But then again it might be cheaper to jsut get an emag.

To the first comment try it out, you will like it, pump play is fun.

It will not be cheaper to buy an E-mag if you already have an RT, it would actually be cheaper to get a Pnuemag. I seriously doubt the PnueMag frame will cost as much as an E-mag.

I would say go with the PnueMag if you want something fast and cheap, but like always, it is up to you. Go find an E-mag and try it out, if you like it buy one. Trying out a PnueMag will be a little harder though.