Why not twistlock?

[ICP]

Wondering why people don't like the twistlock setups? They are simple, can be lighter than ULE bodies(imo, never had one) and I personally love the fact that it takes 1/8 turn to disengage and remove the barrel. The biggest problem I see is with the nubbin if your using a force feed hopper. And lets face it, with a mechanical gun and lvl X you don't really NEED a force feed hopper.(Yes I have one, but for different reason). Just curious is all. Is it a "fad" thing or are they really that much better?, Why?

[personman]

Its because twist lock barrels are harder to machine which results in two problems:
Less availability and
When people do make them, they cost more.

[master_alexander]

well if you ever have held a cocker threaded boomstick and then a twistlock boomstick you can see a big difference in weight. and sometimes people lke to have a true centerfeed body. others like it a powerfeed especally if they use a warp.

[ICP]

I knew that was gonna be posted. But if they were used, they would be available, and they really are not hard to machine, with the CNC equipment available today. But your prob. right about being a little more expensive to produce.


EDIT: and another good point, weight, I guess it does matter to a lot of people. But I think the saved weight on the body would make up for it.

[Glickman]

I knew that was gonna be posted. But if they were used, they would be available, and they really are not hard to machine, with the CNC equipment available today. But your prob. right about being a little more expensive to produce.

why use cnc when you can just pour aluminum into a mold? :D

[ICP]

cause then you still have to do the finishing procedure, honing, porting etc. And we couldn't put molded barrels on our mags.. ;)

[ultralight]

"poured"???

barrels are machined.

casting aluminum is alot different than casting acrylic. when any metal is cast they don't use molds, they use sand. this gives the piece a rough surface which then has to be machined. any barrel manufacturer would rather just drill the hole for the bore rather than try to use a casting with a cast hole through it. drilling + billet costs much less than drilling + casting.

as far as twistlock, i like them. i realize that they are more expensive to produce and have their own inheirent problems but who wants to sit there for 5 minutes unscrewing a cocker barel?
i know i hate doing it.

[Vex]

as far as twistlock, i like them. i realize that they are more expensive to produce and have their own inheirent problems but who wants to sit there for 5 minutes unscrewing a cocker barel? i know i hate doing it.

I agree. I think that twistlock is an ingenious design and was way ahead of it's time. You ever crossthreaded a twistlock? No, because it's impossible. :headbang:

[Deathshadow9k]

rockin it old school style, bout to buy one of these mainbodies then send it into FBM and have them install a press feed autococker Hooker Clamping feedneck

mainbody: http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=423&categoryID=10

feedneck: http://www.fireballmountain.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FBM&Product_Code=FBM-974

and yes i'm lazy so i'm not really willing to put up the pics all the way, in total its been quoted at $120 for the finished product (including price of body from AGD) this way i dont have to get rid of my twist lock boomstick and freak back

[jewie27]

To settle this ONCE AND FOR ALL. Here's the Final answer.




It was hard for many manufacturers to create twistlock barrels with the SAME size breech. Every brand had a different size breech.

Since Autococker threads are pretty much a industry standard, there are way more barrels available to choose from. So AGD went to 'Cocker threads.

In my honest opinion, twistlock is still what I prefer. I like having the quarter turn removal/install plus the fact that the breech is part of the barrel. If a ball ever breaks in my 'Mag, I just remove the barrel and clean out all the paint with a squeegee. On all other markers, a chopped ball means a pain in the butt when it's time to clean the paint.

[Enemy]

ok the true answer or atleast the one that i remember tom mentioning is that the lvl 10 bolt is larger in the front there is a reason for that which i dont remember but the fact is it is still wider than a lvl 7. with aftermarket manufactuers having trouble maintaning toloerances for the breach part of there twist lock barrels the superbolts were striking some barrels.. some people sanded down there bolts to fit the barrels.. some bolts even sanded wouldnt fit the barrels! so agd decided that to alleviate this problem they would take the breach out of the aftermarkets hands and made a body that had a threaded barrel and ofcoarse a breach as well!!

[yakitori]

I noticed that with twistlock bodys/barrel when I push into a bunker sometimes my LVL 10 chuffs because of the double oring design misaligning the bolt and breech/barrel. I also dont like the powerfeed being in my view esp a hopper left powerfeed. It really takes away my vision w/ my right eye. I use both eyes, and this bothers me. The powerfeed can get paint dirt inside of it and get shot through the barrel. Also a pain if it starts raining.

Also, they ARE heavier than ULE. And the availability of barrels is not as good as cocker threaded barrels. In fact I dont know of any twistlock mag barrel kits. Even though twist lock barrels are cheap and you can buy multiple barrels. ULE bodies also give a shorter profile. No hopper sticking a mile into the air, and no crappy plastic elbows getting broken all the time. Ive gone through 2 in the past 2 outtings adding up to 10 extra bucks that I coulda spent on paint/drinks/food/air.

I personally prefer ULE body over the twistlock for the above reasons. That is exactly why I purchased one because the SS was annoying to me. I too use a Halo B and if I do get a barrel break I have to turn off the halo, shoot the ball stack out then remove the barrel. Not so w/ the ULE and it probably turns out to the same amount of time to get the barrel off and cleaned.

Those are some reasons why I prefer ULE over twistlock, and I feel they are valid arguments to not use the SS bodies. It is worth a 90 dollar used ULE body to me.

[aaroncushing]

Anybody using a twist-lock to AC adapter from Doc's Machine (http://www.docsmachine.com/gear/maggit.html)?

http://www.docsmachine.com/gear/01.jpghttp://www.docsmachine.com/gear/02.jpghttp://www.docsmachine.com/gear/04.jpg

[yakitori]

Anybody using a twist-lock to AC adapter from Doc's Machine (http://www.docsmachine.com/gear/maggit.html)?

http://www.docsmachine.com/gear/01.jpghttp://www.docsmachine.com/gear/02.jpghttp://www.docsmachine.com/gear/04.jpg

I know someone who does, and it seemed a little looser than regular twistlock barrels. Maybe an oring could be stuffed in though.

Wouldnt that further increase the weight? How much do they weigh. My friends has one setup w/ a warp and y grip and it seems not too bad as far as weight. I guess becauase its ballanced nicely. He even has an 88ci tank too.

Thats weird cause my emag seemed really heavy w/ the warp setup.

[Chris42050]

Back in the day, when classic mags were king (at least to me they were) my friend would just have two twistlock barrels on him at all times. When he got a barrel break he would just swap barrels and keep on playing.

[personman]

Back in the day, when classic mags were king (at least to me they were) my friend would just have two twistlock barrels on him at all times. When he got a barrel break he would just swap barrels and keep on playing.
That's not very safe, unless the barrels were the exact same thing. The length, bore, and porting of the barrel all affect velocity. Depending on all of those (like if he was switching from a 18" All american to a 12" crown point) someone could get hurt.

But, if the barrels shot at pretty much the same FPS, thats a pretty good idea :)

[11_Mile_TMaster]

That's not very safe, unless the barrels were the exact same thing. The length, bore, and porting of the barrel all affect velocity. Depending on all of those (like if he was switching from a 18" All american to a 12" crown point) someone could get hurt.

But, if the barrels shot at pretty much the same FPS, thats a pretty good idea :)


Hehe... I remember at HSI once, a Ref caught a player switching Boresizes on the field and made him rechrono. :)

Edit:

I noticed that with twistlock bodys/barrel when I push into a bunker sometimes my LVL 10 chuffs because of the double oring design misaligning the bolt and breech/barrel. I also dont like the powerfeed being in my view esp a hopper left powerfeed. It really takes away my vision w/ my right eye. I use both eyes, and this bothers me. The powerfeed can get paint dirt inside of it and get shot through the barrel. Also a pain if it starts raining.

Also, they ARE heavier than ULE. And the availability of barrels is not as good as cocker threaded barrels. In fact I dont know of any twistlock mag barrel kits. Even though twist lock barrels are cheap and you can buy multiple barrels. ULE bodies also give a shorter profile. No hopper sticking a mile into the air, and no crappy plastic elbows getting broken all the time. Ive gone through 2 in the past 2 outtings adding up to 10 extra bucks that I coulda spent on paint/drinks/food/air.

I actually had some odd chuffing problems with my stock RT Pro barrel and my level 10. Switching to ULE alleviated those problems...

For reference, I'm pretty sure the J&J Edge kit is made in twistlock form, and I know the freak was made in such as well.

[ICP]

To settle this ONCE AND FOR ALL. Here's the Final answer.




It was hard for many manufacturers to create twistlock barrels with the SAME size breech. Every brand had a different size breech.

Since Autococker threads are pretty much a industry standard, there are way more barrels available to choose from. So AGD went to 'Cocker threads.

In my honest opinion, twistlock is still what I prefer. I like having the quarter turn removal/install plus the fact that the breech is part of the barrel. If a ball ever breaks in my 'Mag, I just remove the barrel and clean out all the paint with a squeegee. On all other markers, a chopped ball means a pain in the butt when it's time to clean the paint.


WOW, I'm an experienced/competant machinist, and I can see no reason as to why there would be a problem keeping the breech in AGD specs.

As far as the weight concerns go, if you make a twistlock out of AL, it would be lighter than the current ULE bodies. The SS bodies aren't what made the mags heavy. It was the SS valve that did that. And of course they could be made CF so that the hopper isn't in your line of sight.

[teufelhunden]

In my honest opinion, twistlock is still what I prefer. I like having the quarter turn removal/install plus the fact that the breech is part of the barrel. If a ball ever breaks in my 'Mag, I just remove the barrel and clean out all the paint with a squeegee. On all other markers, a chopped ball means a pain in the butt when it's time to clean the paint.


It's really a major hassle to pull a pin and then pull a bolt, isn't it.

Whatever, not something I have to deal with, <3 eyes&.693.

[jewie27]

It's really a major hassle to pull a pin and then pull a bolt, isn't it.

Whatever, not something I have to deal with, <3 eyes&.693.


There is no bolt to pull...................


Wherever you got that one, I have no clue.......

[teufelhunden]

You said on other markers it's hard to clean up after a chop. I disagree. I then referenced guns like 'Cockers, Intimidators, Impulses, Spyders, Bushy's, etc that have a pin which you can pull and then remove the bolt.

[yakitori]

I agree w/ tuef on this one. My viking is way faster to clean. Dont even have to take the barrel off. Pull bolt run squeegee through gun, replace bolt. thats it.

They do make a JJ edge in Twistlock because I had one. That is correct.

[hitech]

That's not very safe, unless the barrels were the exact same thing.

You just chrono both barrels. It only takes a few seconds extra. A friend of mine use to do the same thing, but with a bushmaster pump... :wow:

[master_alexander]

from what was said above, if i chrono with my 16 inch boomstick and then switch to my 10 inch dye xcel, there will be a big difference in fps? (i have nitro and level 10 too)

[Evil Bob]

Anybody using a twist-lock to AC adapter from Doc's Machine (http://www.docsmachine.com/gear/maggit.html)?

http://www.docsmachine.com/gear/01.jpghttp://www.docsmachine.com/gear/02.jpghttp://www.docsmachine.com/gear/04.jpg

I have several of these, they give new life to your old twist lock bodies (which includes Sydarms!). The fit very smoothly into the body, and the tiny twistlock pin hole in the bottom means it aint moving once its mounted, there is no play at all in any of the ones I own. These will fit PF Left, right, and center feed configs (adapter has three holes on the bottom that corresponds to the feed angle you want).

To mount it, you need to remove the body from the rail. The hole that lines up with the twise lock pin needs to be set directly to top of the pin. The easiest way to do this is the thread the adapter onto a barrel, slide it into the body, then rotate/position the adapter until you see that the feed port is properly lined up and the twist lock adapter hole on the bottom. Once its all lined up, drop the body back onto the rail/grip frame and bolt it down.

-Evil Bob

[Chris42050]

The barrels were the same length, bore, and brand. He just really didnt like squeegeeing on the field.

[jewie27]

You said on other markers it's hard to clean up after a chop. I disagree. I then referenced guns like 'Cockers, Intimidators, Impulses, Spyders, Bushy's, etc that have a pin which you can pull and then remove the bolt.


I said a Mag with twistlock is easier to clean because the breech is part of the barrel. Remove the barrel and clean the whole thing with a squeegee in one swipe.