ULE Trigger Pull Kit with Classic valve?

[Duff_Man]

First I want to say thanks to all the people here willing to help others! This is my first time posting, so if I'm doing anything wrong, please let me know.

Some background: I’ve only played a few times over the past few years, but after some research, I bought an A-5 two weekends ago. I went to a local park to play and met a guy who shares my like of “old school” (non-electronic) markers. He had a 68 Automag and I immediately liked the old school simplicity of it – I returned my A-5 (BTW, the A-5 worked flawlessly - still a dependable marker) and bought his Automag this weekend. I played most of the day with much higher accuracy and no problems besides my paint being a little oversized for the barrel.

I have a couple of questions, but I’ll put them in separate threads to keep it simple. I've done as much research about my mag as I can before asking these questions, so I hope there not too redundant.

My “new” 68 Automag is pretty stock, but it has a Powerfeed mainbody, a Level 10 upgrade, a ULE Trigger Pull Kit and a Dye Boomstick barrel, running HPA from a 68ci/4500 Pure Energy carbon fiber tank.

My question here is: It has a Classic valve. The AGD website says that the ULE Trigger Pull Kit is “NOT suitable for use with Automag/Classic/Minimag Valves.” I didn’t have any problems while shooting it. Am I causing any damage by using the ULE Trigger Pull Kit with a Classic valve? I didn’t get any spare parts for it, so I’ll have to order a new On/Off Assembly if necessary.

Any comments on my marker’s set-up (pro/con) are welcome as well.

Thanks in advance for the help!

[Stoble]

I tried the ULE trigger in my classic a couple days ago and shortstroked alot. So I had to take it out. If the ULE trigger is working fine in your classic mag, then great! I would check the sear to make sure it's in good condition. Even if it is in good condition it will probably wear faster because of the ULT, so you might want to buy a backup anyways. If you do plan on taking the ULT out, yes you will need a new stock on/off. One question though, does your gun have trigger stops? Please get back to me, I'd like to get mine working better. Note: (I had 5 lv.10 shims and 4 ULT shims, so 14 ult shims total).

[Duff_Man]

Thanks for the quick reply Stoble!

Sorry, I’m still very new to mags and markers in general, but it appears that I have 1 shim in the lvl 10, and when I pop out the ULE on/off, I don’t see any shims at all.

As far as trigger stops, I just have a vague understanding of what one is, but my frame appears to be the stock AGD Carbon Fiber one (says AGD on the grip too). All I see is the trigger pull and the trigger rod running through the frame.

If you think I’m looking at the wrong things, let me know and I'll try to help.

Thanks again.

[onedude36]

In a ult, you pop the on/off out, and unscrew the halves and there should be shims between the halves, but arround the pin. Be very careful not to bend the pin! However, if it works fine, dont screw with it. Just dont. I have friends that do this and end up calling me 'Please come fix this' and quite frankly, it gets annoying.

[Duff_Man]

Got it Onedude, thanks.

We had it apart yesterday, so I wasn’t afraid to take it apart again to see about the shims. All that I see between the valve and the regulator (around the valve pin and without taking the valve pin out) is the regulator seat. Could it be because this is a Classic valve and not an X-Valve? Also I don’t see any shims on the exploded view of the Classic valve on the AGD site.

Stoble, does this help?

[Arkhangel]

Got it Onedude, thanks.

We had it apart yesterday, so I wasn’t afraid to take it apart again to see about the shims. All that I see between the valve and the regulator (around the valve pin and without taking the valve pin out) is the regulator seat. Could it be because this is a Classic valve and not an X-Valve? Also I don’t see any shims on the exploded view of the Classic valve on the AGD site.

Stoble, does this help?

The shims Stoble was referring to are internal to the on/off. If you take the valve out of the gun, the on/off is on the bottom of the valve. After removing the on/off, you can unscrew the on/off halves. That's where you'd find the shims -- they're basically very very thing washers. Like he said: be careful not to bend the on/off pin.

I've been puzting around with this for my double gun project (can't afford to get two x-valves at the moment). I have 8 ULT shims in. Been messing around trying to get the valve to fire reliably. I think that having a new air tank with a higher output pressure would help some (maybe Centerflag's 4CE with the 1000psi output if I could find one :cuss: ). From what I've noticed, the less pressure in the tank, the less it works which makes perfect sense if you think about it.

[Duff_Man]

Thanks for the info Arkhangel. I have since discovered that I DO NOT have the ULE trigger. Mine is just the one piece on/off - learning as I go - sorry. Hope you can get that double gun working though - we'll need to see pictures of that! I'll get the ULE trigger kit when I can afford to buy an x-valve too. :) Thanks again.