PDA

View Full Version : Want lighter trigger pull.



danieljk
04-29-2005, 09:39 AM
I just bought myself an RT ULE custom w/ y-grip. Its awesome, but the trigger pull is pretty "heavy." I used to own an impy, so this is a huge difference. I was wondering, is there anyway to 1. convert my y-grip to an electric trigger. or 2. convert the y-grip w/ either an e-mag x-mag trigger frame? thanks.

bleachit
04-29-2005, 09:45 AM
have you heard of the ULT trigger kit? you may want to try that

JoeyBear
04-29-2005, 09:46 AM
You can put a trigger kit into the valve that will severely lighten the pull weight on the trigger.

danieljk
04-29-2005, 09:48 AM
Yeah i know, i'd like to know is it just about as light of a trigger pull as an impy?

Pullman
04-29-2005, 04:19 PM
Yeah i know, i'd like to know is it just about as light of a trigger pull as an impy?
I dunno anything about Impulses, but my guess is that the ULT will not make your trigger pull as light as an electro. However it will take the 3 pound pull you have now down to a 15 oz pull which is pretty swell. Will you be able to walk it? Not effectively, but you will have a light enough pull that you can fan off a string of 3-5 with out jerking your barrel all over the place and that ought to be enough to put one or two where you need them. :D

Hope that helps.

JRingold
04-29-2005, 08:57 PM
ULT is the way to go. I went from a Classic valve to an X with ULT and it rocks. Not close to being as light as my X-Mag with one magnet, but I was able to get yelled at in recreational woods ball for overshooting the first time I used it.

danieljk
05-02-2005, 06:41 PM
isn't there a way to put a spyder electro trigger on it?

jaredborne
05-02-2005, 08:08 PM
Can you put the trigger kit on RT pros?

danieljk
05-03-2005, 06:00 PM
probably. like i said b4, i've heard things about spyder trigger frames on automags. is it true?

D-Block
05-03-2005, 06:16 PM
Yes

danieljk
05-03-2005, 06:18 PM
is it a direct fit or do you need customizing?

Alpha
05-03-2005, 06:47 PM
I dunno anything about Impulses, but my guess is that the ULT will not make your trigger pull as light as an electro. However it will take the 3 pound pull you have now down to a 15 oz pull which is pretty swell. Will you be able to walk it? Not effectively, but you will have a light enough pull that you can fan off a string of 3-5 with out jerking your barrel all over the place and that ought to be enough to put one or two where you need them. :D

Hope that helps.

To elaborate on waling RT Pros, its possible, but remember, the trigger pull isnt exactly light. A Better word to describe a ULT trigger pull is CRISP.

But its still kinda long, so you need to train yourself to walk again. instead of lightning fast short stroked, you need lightning fast, longer, stronger strokes. The way I walk mine, i I stiffen up my figners so they are straight, and kinda rub them togethor as the middle finger passes the index. I hit 17bps in one of my soundtests (but it is yet to be decided if I have bounce in it or not.. I kinda expect that I do, but I have a new trigger frame and trigger, so everything could be changed now).

Try out the ULT. Talk to RogueFactor on AIM, he can get you a sweet discounted price from the normal AGD price.

eDIT: Sorry didnt read all the way down...

Spydermags need some customization. I know a fair amount about both stacked tube blowbacks (and I'm kinda new to mags, but that doesn't mean I dont know abotu them). You'd have to drill new holes, and rig up a new sear.. Well I dont think you use a new sear entirely, you just use the RTP searand mod it into the spyder frame.

But to answer your question, yes it takes a bit of tinkering.

danieljk
05-03-2005, 08:36 PM
Wow thanks for the extreme explanation. You're way helpful. This is probalby a pretty "newbish" question, but what exactly is a sear? Again, thanks.

Alpha
05-03-2005, 09:50 PM
WEll have you taken your gun apart? On the left side of your rail there is a spoot for a 1/8" hex. This is the ear pin. If you remove the field strip screw (thumbscrew in the rear of the marker), adn the screw thats under the trigger frame's midde (where it says AGD), the trigger frame, rail, body, and valve will be sparated.

The thing thats attached to the rail by the 1/8" hex I mentioned if the sear. When its pivoted , the rear portion depresses a button on your on/off (bronze rectangle on underside of the valve). The front portion lets go of the bolt, so at the same time the on/off is hit, the bolt is released, adn the marker fires.

NUCKING FUTS!
05-04-2005, 11:02 AM
probably. like i said b4, i've heard things about spyder trigger frames on automags. is it true?

Absolutely. I have one. Its X-valved, T-boarded, and ULE'd. It absolutely rips with the 25g switch i have in it. The thing flys. If you want more info on how to do the conversion, go to the AGD forum on PbNation. Theres a long thread with a full explination of how to do the conversion.

kcam911
05-04-2005, 12:56 PM
Dont bother trying to convert a spyder trigger onto the thing it wont be that fast and its going to be a total pain. You should make your y-grip pnuematically assisted, it rips and theres no bounce. http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=167983&highlight=Phishphen Go there and learn all you can in the mean time about Micro Pnuematics, consult phishphen with any q/a i did and he was pretty help full. Just have to spend sometime kicking about the internet and home depot to get all the parts.

-Kcam

NUCKING FUTS!
05-04-2005, 01:07 PM
Dont bother trying to convert a spyder trigger onto the thing it wont be that fast and its going to be a total pain. You should make your y-grip pnuematically assisted, it rips and theres no bounce. http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=167983&highlight=Phishphen Go there and learn all you can in the mean time about Micro Pnuematics, consult phishphen with any q/a i did and he was pretty help full. Just have to spend sometime kicking about the internet and home depot to get all the parts.

-Kcam

Please read the post directly above yours. Guess what? Youre completely wrong. You think doing a little milling on a spyder frame is a pain? Try making your frame pneumatically assisted. Plus, theres a very good chance that if you do that, it wont come out right (the speed may not go past 10 bps). The spyder frame i have on my mag absolutely rips, because it is t-boarded and 25g switch'd. I can guarantee you that it will (at the very least) keep up with any gun on the field.