I think it's a level ten problem...

[Boydster]

Whenever I increase the pressure going into my mag, the bolt(LX) slides forward about a centimeter and it starts to leak badly. The gauge on my Armageddon says 350 when it does this. I've added a shim(starting with zero), then 2 ULT shims on top of that. Is it a shim problem? I thought bolt stick didn't have leaking to go with it. I have no idea what this could be, but I'm getting really angry. I've been working on leaks from my gun and Armageddon all day. I do have a ult installed.

[tipp-ed off]

Did you try the next smallest carrier with no shims? My level ten was actin' up a little bit Sunday(slight hiss down the barrel when I held down the trigger) I took out one shim and now it works flawlessly. ???

[Boydster]

Hm, I took out the ULT, and put my stock on/off with an emag pin in. I don't have a pin yet, as I'm moving from an Emag to an RT Pro.

Works great now. Now that I know the bolt is tuned correctly, I have gone to try and tune the ULT. Zero shims and it'll not fire at all, and does not have the bolt move forward when gassing up and leak. One shim, and it'll move up about a centimeter and leak.

[funeralplanner]

Did you try a longer spring?

[Carbon Blue]

keep adding shims to the ULT till it stops doing that. I have 5 ULT and 1 lvl10 in my ULT which equals 7 since the lvl10 shim is basically 2 ULT shims

[TMAXXKING1]

ahh

i see the word emag on/off in there ..
is this set up in an emag..

the only way you can use a ult in it is if you are only useing it in mech mode ..

with a ult the emag will be haveing a few problems ..

[athomas]

350? Is that the tank output setting? You should have the tank output set to a higher setting than that. Try 800psi or higher, especially with the ULT (smaller top likes higher input pressure).

If the bolt is not locked by the sear, it can get pushed forward by increasing the tank pressure because the chamber pressure will also increase at the same time. The level 10 will leak if it is forward. Any residual pressure in the chamber can leak out through the vent hole. The leak can continue if the input pressure is low. A very low input pressure sometimes does not set the o-rings and can allow the air to leak through the valve.

[Boydster]

ahh

i see the word emag on/off in there ..
is this set up in an emag..

the only way you can use a ult in it is if you are only useing it in mech mode ..

with a ult the emag will be haveing a few problems ..
No Tmaxx, it's an RT Pro. I'm working on selling the Emag lowers. And all I have besides the ULT is the Emag on/off. Also working on getting a pin for it once Tunaman replies to my PM. Has he been gone or what?


350? Is that the tank output setting? You should have the tank output set to a higher setting than that. Try 800psi or higher, especially with the ULT (smaller top likes higher input pressure).

If the bolt is not locked by the sear, it can get pushed forward by increasing the tank pressure because the chamber pressure will also increase at the same time. The level 10 will leak if it is forward. Any residual pressure in the chamber can leak out through the vent hole. The leak can continue if the input pressure is low. A very low input pressure sometimes does not set the o-rings and can allow the air to leak through the valve.
350 psi is when it happens. I have an Armageddon. I have to go 0- whatever pressure I want. When the guage gets to 350 it does that. I then turn out the screw to turn it off.

It works fine with the stock on/off, well, it rapid fires like crazy, but it doesn't leak or act up like the ULT is doing.

With 0 shims in the ULT, the bolt does not do what I've been explaining. Once a shim is placed in, it does it. Do I need like half a shim or what?

[personman]

Dude.. your tank should be outputting atleast 700 psi for the mag to be able to fire..

are you sure your gun works? :confused:

[athomas]

The problem is just like I explained earlier. A low pressure does not seal the o-rings properly. The 0 shims does seal because it has more area of coverage between the on-off pin and the on-off top o-ring.

To properly turn the pressure on for a mag, you have to do it quickly. Try holding the trigger when you are turning up the tank pressure. The other option is to hold the bolt in place manually until you get enough pressure in the chamber.

[personman]

Ohhhhhh I get it now, his tank doesn't have an on/off switch. My bad.

Yeah, what athomas said is right.

[Boydster]

OK I see. I'll go with the hold trigger in route. I don't see why I didn't think of that though. I've been doing so much thinking about these LX and ULT parts and the whole valve in general. I pretty much now have a complete, exact understanding of how the valve portion works; what shims actually do and all that stuff.

Athomas, from what I've concluded, the ULT is short and light because the pin doesn't have to go through the square oring top. It's just rests up against it and that makes the seal. Shims adjust how far in or out the top of the pin goes into the oring. Too far in and it gets stuck, not forcing the sear to pivot and catch the bolt; too far out and it leaks. My question is:
Does pushing the pin in through the outward part of the on/off assembly damage the oring there? What I mean is, does it stretch it out and make it have a loose/bad seal? Because it took quite a bit of force to get it through. That made me think afterwards that I may have damaged it...

[frop]

My gun also massively leaks when I run the tank down below ~500psi. Simple solution, keep your tank filled & input pressure high :)

[athomas]

Athomas, from what I've concluded, the ULT is short and light because the pin doesn't have to go through the square oring top. It's just rests up against it and that makes the seal. Shims adjust how far in or out the top of the pin goes into the oring. Too far in and it gets stuck, not forcing the sear to pivot and catch the bolt; too far out and it leaks. My question is:
Does pushing the pin in through the outward part of the on/off assembly damage the oring there?

You don't have to worry about damaging the o-ring. The pin is designed to push through, but to make a seal at the earliest point of contact. Ideally you want to make contact with the o-ring (sealing off the air), and then further movement of the sear will release the bolt. Decreasing the shims and allowing the pin to go farther into the o-ring before the bolt is released increases the distance you need to pull the trigger to fire the gun. It does contribute to slowing down the rate of fire as well because the increased friction on the on-off pin will slow down its return.

If the top o-ring is really tight on the on-off pin, you may want to see about replacing it with one that slides more freely.