Just finished my SPYDERMAG **PICS**

[paintballfreak90]

Ok I just finished my own spydermag!!! :clap: :dance: Got some help from a guy over at pbn and it works great.

If you look in the picture you will see that i have a blue asa on there because it is the only one that fits the spyder drop witch is the only drop that will fit the frame :D . Because of the ugly color i was wondering if anyone have any ideas of just taking the paint off, but still keep it somwhat smooth.

I only have pictures of the outside of the gun and no internal pics yet, but ill try and get some soon. I will also try and get a vid with my friends video camera soon too. I also need to do some macroline adjusting.

dammet well i cant get the pics to work so here is a link, just click the little image in the bottom right corner to go to the next picture. http://www.jayloo.com/photo_gallery/show_pic.html?pIMAGE_ID=25114

http://www.jayloo.com/photo_gallery/show_pic.html?pGROUP_ID=6&pIMAGE_ID=25114&pSHOW_ME=standard&pUID=

[spyderkiller]

Cool, got any pics that work? I'd like to see it.

[paintballfreak90]

i just made it a link know instead of pics because they arnt working :cry:

[Maggot6]

Holy hell, that is a niice spydermag :wow: :eek: The trigger looks *interesting* but everything else is great.

[paintballfreak90]

thanks. Yea, the trigger came with the frame when i bought it and it is accually very nice; it gives it a good feel. And anyone know the answer to my question :confused:

[Fathom]

Ok I just finished my own spydermag!!! :clap: :dance: Got some help from a guy over at pbn and it works great.

If you look in the picture you will see that i have a blue asa on there because it is the only one that fits the spyder drop witch is the only drop that will fit the frame :D . Because of the ugly color i was wondering if anyone have any ideas of just taking the paint off, but still keep it somwhat smooth.

I only have pictures of the outside of the gun and no internal pics yet, but ill try and get some soon. I will also try and get a vid with my friends video camera soon too. I also need to do some macroline adjusting.

dammet well i cant get the pics to work so here is a link, just click the little image in the bottom right corner to go to the next picture. http://www.jayloo.com/photo_gallery/show_pic.html?pIMAGE_ID=25114

If thats the question of should i remove the paint on the asa i think. Then you'd have to strip off the anodize on it.


very clean dude.

A danceing banana for you :dance:

[paintballfreak90]

I understand that but the question is how? would i need like acids and stuff?

[Chipper]

Thats nice, I don't know why you pics arn't working. The only thing is that trigger, I'm sorry, but it takes alot away. Check out THESE (http://www.acp-products.com/product_thrasher.php), one of my friends has one, it takes comfort to new levels. And it's wicked fast.

[spyderkiller]

Wow, very nice. Is there a thread that gives the step by step on how to make a spydermag?

[BigEvil]

Very nice job. I am about to try this myself. How hard was it to get the two sears to work together? I ordered extra just in case.

BTW, you can use Easy-Off oven cleaner to strip anno. Use gloves, and something to contain the cleaner in. I use a throw-away cooking pan. Let the part soak for a while, then use 0000 steal wool and a sponge to remove the anno. When you have it all off, you can use the steel wool and some Mothers metal polish to shine it up.

[peewee]

Yea give us the skinny!!!!!!!

[paintballfreak90]

To get the two sears to work together it really depends on the rail alot so tell me what rail you have and ill tell you to either ask me or this other guy from pbn on how to get them to work together. But its not that hard if you have the tools.

here is the thread on pbn....http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=696650

[Lurker27]

Really nice, loving the spydervenom x-blade...get a t-board and eyes installed and you've got one SICK gun...only $65, too. Make sure you mod or get a new switch for the frame, as well.

[master_alexander]

your rail has a pump slot!

[MadPSIence]

um.. I don't get you people.

Cost Efficient = Yes
Good Looking = Not really
Unique = Sorta.. now
Sick = Not really. What was the total cost of the project.. gun included?

Nice job but unless you did it all for like 300 bucks gun included you wasted some dough

[paintballfreak90]

um.. I don't get you people.

Cost Efficient = Yes
Good Looking = Not really
Unique = Sorta.. now
Sick = Not really. What was the total cost of the project.. gun included?

Nice job but unless you did it all for like 300 bucks gun included you wasted some dough

I dont understand what your talking about. Have you ever owned a spydermag, because this thing is worth every penny that i have spent on it. Not trying to start a fight here but this thing could probably kick your guns a$$. BTW:

cost efficient=no
good looking=YES
unique=YES totaly customized(you cant just put a spyder frame on a mag)
Sick=DEFINATLY

[paintballfreak90]

your rail has a pump slot!

Maybe i should make it a spydermagpump :ninja:

[68magOwner]

my lil brother wants me to build one for him, may do it over the summer, approximately how hard would you say the mod is to do and have work correctly?

[warbeak2099]

I dont understand what your talking about. Have you ever owned a spydermag, because this thing is worth every penny that i have spent on it. Not trying to start a fight here but this thing could probably kick your guns a$$. BTW:

cost efficient=no
good looking=YES
unique=YES totaly customized(you cant just put a spyder frame on a mag)
Sick=DEFINATLY


Cost efficient = yes

Used ESP frame ~ $50
Tboard + Tswitch = $66
Aftermarket trigger (lets say the ACP slasher) = $23
Eyes and installation ~ $50

Total ~ $190

That's under $200 for an upgrade that gives you a board capped at 36bps w/o eyes and uncapped w/ eyes, a 25g or 50g switch, eyes, a nice trigger, and you can go back to lvl 7 which will give you better efficiency, faster cycling, and less required maintenance.

Of course you can then opt for dye stickys (+$20), a ramping chip (+$20), and an adapter block (+$10) so you can use normal asa's/rails/drops. That's another $50 and you're still under $250. That's pretty good considering you almost have a devilmag. Minus the AFA code with extra modes of course. But who needs anything other than semi anyways. The other disadvantage is you can't get it in a 90*. That's the only thing holding me back.

[MadPSIence]

add that 250 (slightly under-stated but I'll not argue right now) to the price of a body and a rail not to mention valve, bolt, grip, asa, feedneck...

poof.

[mark_1791]

<a href="http://www.jayloo.com/files/pics/25000/brad_paintball_001.jpg"> <img src="http://www.jayloo.com/files/pics/25000/brad_paintball_001_rs.jpg" width="600" height="450"> </img></a>

Pics work fine...

Anyways...that needs new grips and a new trigger badly.

[personman]

Explain to me how that is a 'waste of money'?

It's a gun, it fires paintballs. It works just as well as any other gun in that price range.

[evilhomer]

MadPSI, you dumbass... Making the SyderMag is as cost efficient as you're gonna get. Think about it. It's either 250$ for an ESP frame, eye installation, T-Board etc... or 250$ for a PTP frame (estimating). Also, compare the price of having an ESP Frame, eyes, t-board etc.. to an Eblade... Yea, they're the same...

[behemoth]

Put the asa in the oven, for like 10 mins, get it hot..

spray the easy off on it

take it out with some old oven mitts, and scrub it with a tooth brush, or a brillopad

Repeat.

Once all the anno's off, take scotchbrite, and rub in one diriection. That'll give it a brushed look

If you want polished, you'll need some rubbing compound and a buffing wheel or something.


I'll do it for a price ;)

[paintballfreak90]

once i can get some cash then ill buy the grips and trigger and assecories, but for now it works great :dance:

[ultralight]

glad to see that you did a major marker mod yourseldf and that you are happy with it.

let others say what they want. but you should try not to make statements like "my marker wuiold kick your marker's ___. " it isn't necessary, and it only makes you sound childish.

i personally think that you should try to make the frame look better. it doesn't match the rest of the marker in design or finish. i would try new grips ( try some nice custom .45 grips instead of stickies, theyre kind of overdone.), trigger, and i would shave that little blob off of the trigger guard. it seems to me that you care about looks so you might want to polish everything to the same finish to give it some unity.

still, very cool that you were able to do it and be pleased with your creation. :cheers:

[onedude36]

nice

[peeko]

Just tap some new inline holes on bottom of frame, then u can use any drop.

[SpecialBlend2786]

chord = awesomeness

[paintballfreak90]

i was kinda thinking about taking off the front of the trigger guard and turning my foregrip around to make it slant inward. anyone have opinions on this?

[SpecialBlend2786]

i was kinda thinking about taking off the front of the trigger guard and turning my foregrip around to make it slant inward. anyone have opinions on this?

I actually think it might look/feel better. I always liked how the Karni's have it that way. Sk8ermog has it like that on his hypermag i believe.

You dont even have to take off the trigger guard, you could just use one of these:
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=168284

[paintballfreak90]

yea but i think i would want it more upclose, cuz thats kinda far out and not as compact.

[tyrion2323]

um.. I don't get you people.

Cost Efficient = Yes
Good Looking = Not really
Unique = Sorta.. now
Sick = Not really. What was the total cost of the project.. gun included?

Nice job but unless you did it all for like 300 bucks gun included you wasted some dough

I don't get you people and your negative posting...

productive = no
encouraging = no
entertaining = no
pathetic = yes

How about showing a little support for a guy who's putting himself out there, trying cool stuff and showing us the results, eh?

[BigEvil]

Where you able to use the ULT with the Emag valve?

[paintballfreak90]

Where you able to use the ULT with the Emag valve?

yea

[BigEvil]

To get the two sears to work together it really depends on the rail alot so tell me what rail you have and ill tell you to either ask me or this other guy from pbn on how to get them to work together. But its not that hard if you have the tools.

here is the thread on pbn....http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=696650

Im using a regular E-mag rail, Spyder esp frame w/tboard, classic valve w/ult & lvl10, and ULE body.

I bought an extra RTP and Spyder sear in case I screw up.

I hav been reading up on all of the Sypdermag threads here on AO and on PBN. For the Mag sear, did you spot-weld the 'hook' on like that Tony guy did?

[paintballfreak90]

i wouldnt use a classic valve cuz it would slow down the rate of fire

[BigEvil]

i wouldnt use a classic valve cuz it would slow down the rate of fire

Its what I have in there ar the moment. Maybe down the road i will change it to an Xvalve.

[jamescell]

if you want to make the asa the same color all you need to do is get some red devil pipe cleaner (100% Lye) put it in some water , then soak you asa in it for a while, and presto the blue anodization is removed

[paintballfreak90]

k thanx

[p8ntball365]

I hav been reading up on all of the Sypdermag threads here on AO and on PBN. For the Mag sear, did you spot-weld the 'hook' on like that Tony guy did?

The way Tony did it is causing extra wear. Its easier just to flip the solenoid thing around so it hits the sear leg. That's the way I'm gonna do it at least.

[paintballfreak90]

the way i do it is fine, but whatever

[p8ntball365]

the way i do it is fine, but whatever
Theres nothing wrong with the way you did it, I'm just saying that the metal on metal of the spyder sear pushing the mag sear will cause extra wear on the parts.

[happynub]

i just found out about this mod tonight, and i read way too much on it, here and at pbnation, and i really understand it, so that's cool.
i'm just wonderring, that hard part, makin the two sears fit together, the way most people have done it is the making a tab, right? what was the tab made out of?
and also, p8ntball365, that sounds easier, how will that work?

[paintballfreak90]

:shooting: :shooting:

[Jaan]

Very nice job. I am about to try this myself. How hard was it to get the two sears to work together? I ordered extra just in case.

BTW, you can use Easy-Off oven cleaner to strip anno. Use gloves, and something to contain the cleaner in. I use a throw-away cooking pan. Let the part soak for a while, then use 0000 steal wool and a sponge to remove the anno. When you have it all off, you can use the steel wool and some Mothers metal polish to shine it up.
You *can* use steel wool to polish and usually it comes out fine when you do that, but keep in mind you may get corrosion from dissimilar metals, and steel rusts anyway. In a couple of years those tiny little pieces of steel that have gotten stuck in the aluminum may make it look pretty bad.

[BigEvil]

The way Tony did it is causing extra wear. Its easier just to flip the solenoid thing around so it hits the sear leg. That's the way I'm gonna do it at least.

Ive been thinking about flipping the sear... Im thinking that I would have to take an aweful lot of metal off of the top of the spyder frame in order to get the mag sear in far enough. Have you tried it yet?

[paintballfreak90]

get a dremel and its not that hard

[paintballfreak90]

up up up up up

[tyrion2323]

Don't up old threads without purpose. This ain't PBN.