Spartan X
05-22-2005, 03:29 PM
(This is the story of the marker, if you just want to see the pictures scroll down to the bottom.)
First I would like to tank those that made this possible, Allan and Jared first and foremost, and John at JMJ for their part in the milling as well.
This story begins late last February(04) when I first ordered a Destructive Customs FSP, which I specified that I wanted the last serial number wise that DC had in their last batch of Vikings coming from DC. This way I would have the last DC ever made as a complete DC Viking.
As time went on while waiting for the Bodies to get from AKA to DC I decided since I was spending so much I might as well go all out, and since DC could not round the tubes like JMJ, the John would have to be incorporated into the loop. DC would do the ASA FSP milling since they already had the program, and JMJ would do the featherlite milling, reverse swirled and part of the back word cut of the highlander back tube.
During the 4 or so weeks that it took for AKA to send DC the bodies, CowMix decided he wanted in on what I was doing, well I decided that was fine cause I like the sound of 1 of 2 rather then the over used 1 of 1. So I’d control what was happening and keep him updated. CowMix convinced my to make the FSP ASA fatter then normal because not only does it looks better, but it also will add more strength. I’m so glad I had his perspective on this, thanks man.
Well It took DC a few week to get around to doing the ASA’s on our Vikings, and in truth our Vikings were milled before the other FSP’s were, so tech our Vikings are the 2nd and 3d FSP DC Viking made ever, with Jared’s being the first. DC then shipped it to JMJ which started a LONG wait.
JMJ’s job was do work around DC’s ASA milling and reverse the direction of their normal swirl milling and cut the back tub all the way to the bolt Pins section and do a highlander back slash. JMJ still has my gun up to IAO and finished it about 2 weeks after. It was then sent back to DC for Frame/tray milling, plus making the back slash on the top tube steeper, cutting the inlet between the 2 back tubes which DC’s have a JMJ’s do not, and generally smoothing out any thing that we wanted changed after seeing the Raw pictures. This process took about a month.
During this time me and Cowmix sent in our parts to get anode to match. He sent in his Scepter Tip and back, and Tarantula Vert. frame.
I sent in my Pipe KIT (entire kit), shocktech micro drop, and shocktech on/off asa, 2 liter Reg with Long extension, JMJ double swing with swing cut odd, DC MM, and the normal anode to match stuff that DC does. ( I’d have dye 2003 red stickies)
The markers were sent to ano-tech with the following anodizing-descriptions:
CowMix:
Polished black to red fade with a reverse splash. Meaning on the red fade side a black would be splashed, and on the black fade side red would be splashed.
Mine (Spartan X) :
A Black to Red ACID FADE. Normally an Acid has 2 colors. In a normal acid the color chosen is used along with black, as with an acid red it would be red/black. In my acid that second color which is normally black would be changed.
The black/red would be the primary chosen colors, and in the black fade part a dark gray will be used in the secondary color. As the black acid/gray fades into the acid red, that secondary color would fade into a brighter silver as it enters the acid red.
This would give the appearance of rolling clouds fading into an angry red acid storm.
AnoTech had our markers for almost 20 weeks, due to traffic and because they messed up Cowmix’s anodizing the first time because they did not get the colors right. They also wanted to get a few more markers done for DC and ship them all at once.
My anodizing came to DC messed up. They got the fade colors wrong, and forgot to polish and clean it before ano…so yah it was messed up. DC sent it back to Anotechy who said they would fix it right away…DC got it back 9 weeks later.
When DC received Cowmix’s it went out right away to laser engraving for the following, mine followed 9 weeks later:
Cowmix:
His PBN name will be engraved under the detent eye cover, and his real name will be engraved under the non-detent eye cover
Spartan X (subject to change)
His PBN name will be engraved under the detent eye cover, and his real name will be engraved under the non-detent eye cover.
As well as a anti-Smart parts Nazi symbol engraved inside the gun, under the tray, with the title of the gun engraved, “Destructive Customs Featherlite Super F*** Smart Parts Viking” ( with the F word spelled out)
Both will have a DF Serial number with mine (Spartan X) being the #1 because I was the project leader and controlled mainly what was decided what was done to the guns (CowMix was along for the ride). We wish to make this a full line of guns, so if any one wishes, they may ask DC to copy the mill pattern exactly and get their own DF serial number
Cowmix got his Viking 2-3 weeks before I got mine. Mine was held up a little longer at laser then it was done in for quad detents and had the bolt cut and scm updated to a scm3…Here we go!
The Owner of the second viking will post his own pictures if he pleases.
http://www.flagpull.com/free/PICT0015.JPG
http://www.flagpull.com/free/PICT0019.JPG
http://www.flagpull.com/free/PICT002f0.JPG
http://www.flagpull.com/free/PICT002f1.JPG
http://www.flagpull.com/free/PICT0022.JPG
http://www.flagpull.com/free/PICT0029f.JPG
http://www.flagpull.com/free/PICT002f.JPG
http://www.flagpull.com/free/PICT0028.JPG
First I would like to tank those that made this possible, Allan and Jared first and foremost, and John at JMJ for their part in the milling as well.
This story begins late last February(04) when I first ordered a Destructive Customs FSP, which I specified that I wanted the last serial number wise that DC had in their last batch of Vikings coming from DC. This way I would have the last DC ever made as a complete DC Viking.
As time went on while waiting for the Bodies to get from AKA to DC I decided since I was spending so much I might as well go all out, and since DC could not round the tubes like JMJ, the John would have to be incorporated into the loop. DC would do the ASA FSP milling since they already had the program, and JMJ would do the featherlite milling, reverse swirled and part of the back word cut of the highlander back tube.
During the 4 or so weeks that it took for AKA to send DC the bodies, CowMix decided he wanted in on what I was doing, well I decided that was fine cause I like the sound of 1 of 2 rather then the over used 1 of 1. So I’d control what was happening and keep him updated. CowMix convinced my to make the FSP ASA fatter then normal because not only does it looks better, but it also will add more strength. I’m so glad I had his perspective on this, thanks man.
Well It took DC a few week to get around to doing the ASA’s on our Vikings, and in truth our Vikings were milled before the other FSP’s were, so tech our Vikings are the 2nd and 3d FSP DC Viking made ever, with Jared’s being the first. DC then shipped it to JMJ which started a LONG wait.
JMJ’s job was do work around DC’s ASA milling and reverse the direction of their normal swirl milling and cut the back tub all the way to the bolt Pins section and do a highlander back slash. JMJ still has my gun up to IAO and finished it about 2 weeks after. It was then sent back to DC for Frame/tray milling, plus making the back slash on the top tube steeper, cutting the inlet between the 2 back tubes which DC’s have a JMJ’s do not, and generally smoothing out any thing that we wanted changed after seeing the Raw pictures. This process took about a month.
During this time me and Cowmix sent in our parts to get anode to match. He sent in his Scepter Tip and back, and Tarantula Vert. frame.
I sent in my Pipe KIT (entire kit), shocktech micro drop, and shocktech on/off asa, 2 liter Reg with Long extension, JMJ double swing with swing cut odd, DC MM, and the normal anode to match stuff that DC does. ( I’d have dye 2003 red stickies)
The markers were sent to ano-tech with the following anodizing-descriptions:
CowMix:
Polished black to red fade with a reverse splash. Meaning on the red fade side a black would be splashed, and on the black fade side red would be splashed.
Mine (Spartan X) :
A Black to Red ACID FADE. Normally an Acid has 2 colors. In a normal acid the color chosen is used along with black, as with an acid red it would be red/black. In my acid that second color which is normally black would be changed.
The black/red would be the primary chosen colors, and in the black fade part a dark gray will be used in the secondary color. As the black acid/gray fades into the acid red, that secondary color would fade into a brighter silver as it enters the acid red.
This would give the appearance of rolling clouds fading into an angry red acid storm.
AnoTech had our markers for almost 20 weeks, due to traffic and because they messed up Cowmix’s anodizing the first time because they did not get the colors right. They also wanted to get a few more markers done for DC and ship them all at once.
My anodizing came to DC messed up. They got the fade colors wrong, and forgot to polish and clean it before ano…so yah it was messed up. DC sent it back to Anotechy who said they would fix it right away…DC got it back 9 weeks later.
When DC received Cowmix’s it went out right away to laser engraving for the following, mine followed 9 weeks later:
Cowmix:
His PBN name will be engraved under the detent eye cover, and his real name will be engraved under the non-detent eye cover
Spartan X (subject to change)
His PBN name will be engraved under the detent eye cover, and his real name will be engraved under the non-detent eye cover.
As well as a anti-Smart parts Nazi symbol engraved inside the gun, under the tray, with the title of the gun engraved, “Destructive Customs Featherlite Super F*** Smart Parts Viking” ( with the F word spelled out)
Both will have a DF Serial number with mine (Spartan X) being the #1 because I was the project leader and controlled mainly what was decided what was done to the guns (CowMix was along for the ride). We wish to make this a full line of guns, so if any one wishes, they may ask DC to copy the mill pattern exactly and get their own DF serial number
Cowmix got his Viking 2-3 weeks before I got mine. Mine was held up a little longer at laser then it was done in for quad detents and had the bolt cut and scm updated to a scm3…Here we go!
The Owner of the second viking will post his own pictures if he pleases.
http://www.flagpull.com/free/PICT0015.JPG
http://www.flagpull.com/free/PICT0019.JPG
http://www.flagpull.com/free/PICT002f0.JPG
http://www.flagpull.com/free/PICT002f1.JPG
http://www.flagpull.com/free/PICT0022.JPG
http://www.flagpull.com/free/PICT0029f.JPG
http://www.flagpull.com/free/PICT002f.JPG
http://www.flagpull.com/free/PICT0028.JPG