Emag + Level 7 + Halo B = ?

[thejesus]

Has anyone had any experience throwing a lvl 7 bolt into an e-mag? I have a lvl 10 in mine now, but my gun is a bit finicky and I have to adjust my bolt more than I would like. I miss the oil, gas up, and go attributes of my Micromag RT, and since I have an adequate loader (Halo B), I was hoping that I could throw the lvl 7 in and not have chopping issues. I don't really want to invest in getting eyes put in the gun. Who does that, anyways.

So is anyone running a lvl 7 e-mag with no eyes? Chopping issues? Thanks!

[FlawleZ]

Eh, honestly I think you'll be alright. It's going to come down more to what kind of shape your detents are in and how fast you shoot your E-Mag. I'm sure that with a Halo B, as long as you don't have force feeding issues, you should be ok. Shoot a few hundred through it and let us know. Every gun has its own personality.

[GT]

Good luck,
Even with a halo on my old emag I would occasionally get a chuff chuff. Not to say I shoot that fast, rather I dont think a halo is as fast as people claim.. Just remember that it is gravity feed at some point. Best choice is a Q, but I have to actually see one in person let alone use one.

[TheTramp]

I wouldn't trust the loader to get the job done on it's own. When shooting into the teens I always want some sort of anti-chop protection.

[BigEvil]

errr.... you probably wouldnt have many chops with a Halo... but you are really MUCH better off with the lvl 10.

What kind of issues are you having?

[yakitori]

agreed. You will be better off w/ lvl 10 even w/ a halo. I used to still get chuffs on my emag w/ a halo and lvl 10.

[thejesus]

errr.... you probably wouldnt have many chops with a Halo... but you are really MUCH better off with the lvl 10.

What kind of issues are you having?

Well, I asked this question sort-of pre-emptively, as I'm not sure if I'm having any problems any more. That is to say, I haven't put any paint through my e-mag since it came back from AGD/Tunaman with a new board and 3.2. It was sent out about 9 months ago because it would short stroke at high rates of fire (I had to set max-bps below 10 for it to not do this). To be honest, I don't know if "short stroke" is even the right term for it. Basically, it sounded like the lvl 10 was catching on something and resetting. Sometimes it would lock up, like bolt stick but the bolt was almost all the way back. This occured with both my Dye Throttle and a Pure Energy high output tank. Pretty much every combination of spring lengths and shims was tried to no avail. RobAGD looked at it, techs at Airgun looked at it, I looked at it, and none of us could fix it.

I got the gun back last week with the brand new board and 3.2 and, surprise surprise, it still short strokes with the Dye Throttle. I bought a Pure Energy 72 ci 4500 and it's seemingly working well now. It cycles fully, or seems to, at a max of 18 bps. At 19 or 20bps it falls all over itself. I turned shot buffering to 4 to let the gun run away to test, and I can't hear the symptoms that it had before, as long as it's set to 18bps or below. However, when the pressure in my Pure Energy falls below ~950psi, it's short-stroke central. The problem is: when this happens with paint in the gun, the lvl 10 doesn't chop a ball, but it does double feed and then breaks paint in the barrel.

I'm aware of the high-pressure requirements of automags, as I've owned them for over 10 years, but I am surprised that my Dye Throttle isn't adequate for my E-mag. Maybe it's a low out... I don't have a gauge to check. Anyways, I'm going to play with the gun at Pev's @ AG this weekend and see what happened. If she misbehaves I'm going to throw the lvl 7 foamie in there and pray.

So yeah, that's the full story.

[yakitori]

well, my lvl 10 had chopped paint before, even when tuned perfectly. no matter what carrier, shim, or spring. it did it. Sometimes it would chuff, sometimes it would chop, sometimes it would chuff and then break the ball in the barrel as you describe.

thats partly one of the reasons i stopped using my emag, and got a gun w/ eyes. My viking will chop w/ the eyes on when I get down to the last ball cause the halo throws a ball in and it bounces off the bottom of the breech back up into the feedneck. It never chops if I reload before it gets low though.

I dont know what the problem could be w/ your emag. Maybe the niod?

Put some oil through it, put in it in hybrid and bounce the hell out of it for a while. make sure you break in that lvl 10 good.

[thejesus]

The noid is new along with the new board. Like I've said, I can only get it to chuff when it's set above 18 bps (ROF setting). To be honest with you, this gun has been broken for so freaking long that if it misbehaves with paint in it, she's getting a lvl 7 foamie.

Is there anyone on AO that drills the ULE bodies and fits them with break-beam eyes? I would always like to have this gun, and it would be sweet to have ACE. I mean, the board is already wired for it... right?

<a href="http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=176771">This is her, by the way.</a> I call her: "The Giver."

[GT]

well, my lvl 10 had chopped paint before, even when tuned perfectly. no matter what carrier, shim, or spring. it did it.

My viking will chop w/ the eyes on when I get down to the last ball cause the halo throws a ball in and it bounces off the bottom of the breech back up into the feedneck.


So your emag and viking both chop. So why switch to another gun? Out of the dozen or so lvlx setups I have had none of them ever chopped, unless I had bad paint, which would break in my hopper.

[BigEvil]

The noid is new along with the new board. Like I've said, I can only get it to chuff when it's set above 18 bps (ROF setting). To be honest with you, this gun has been broken for so freaking long that if it misbehaves with paint in it, she's getting a lvl 7 foamie.

Is there anyone on AO that drills the ULE bodies and fits them with break-beam eyes? I would always like to have this gun, and it would be sweet to have ACE. I mean, the board is already wired for it... right?

<a href="http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=176771">This is her, by the way.</a> I call her: "The Giver."


Check out my thread about the drop-in Predator boards. Then keep an eye on the TAG websight www.theangelguy.com for when they start taking pre-orders. You will have to contact them about doing the machine work for the eyes and covers, but that should run you in the $50 - $100 range depending.....

Linkage (http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=176694)

I also have an X-mag with the ACE. The AGD ACE is probably the only reflective eye out there that is worth a damn. Im sure Tunaman has teh ACE boards, but you would still need some minor milling done to the body and rail for it to fit. Check with Tunaman about it. That would probably be your EASIEST means of putting an eye sensor in the gun. (But still expen$ive)

However, it still doesnt solve the original problem.

It does sound like you are starving the gun for air. Definately check that output on the Dye tank. Also, just for the hell of it, check to see how tight the frame and field strip screw are in. I had a wierd problem like yours if I over-tightened the frame screw on a ULE E-mag rail.

[Dirge]

I'm aware of the high-pressure requirements of automags, as I've owned them for over 10 years, but I am surprised that my Dye Throttle isn't adequate for my E-mag. Maybe it's a low out... I don't have a gauge to check. Anyways, I'm going to play with the gun at Pev's @ AG this weekend and see what happened. If she misbehaves I'm going to throw the lvl 7 foamie in there and pray.

So yeah, that's the full story.

Actually part of your problem is the Dye tank. It has a slow recharge, same (some say worse ) as an ACI Bulldog III. I've had both. Now I have a Crossfire and a Centerflag. It will run down to about 700 psi. before it craps out. This is with a LX. Doubt this helps, but I hope someone else dosen't make the same mistake.

[Scott Hudnall]

If you use the L7 bolt with the foamie, you should be alright. I use L7 in my emag because I do not like the annoying little hisses, etc. plus, the L7 foamie bolt...when combined with a plastic nubbin, fast hopper, and quality paint.....doesn't break paint any more than any other paintball gun. I've had no breaks at all this year (using xball paint and nelson paint AND some old odds and ends paint from last season).

You can probably buy a foamie bolt on the "for sale" forums for $5, give it a try, see what you think.

[warbeak2099]

How much exactly is it to have the AGD ACE installed? I'm talking about having the chip, eye, and milling done.

I will most likely be using a lvl 7 foamie bolt after I'm done with my homemade e-mod. I was planning on just relying on breakbeams. My local shop will drill both holes for $20!

[minimag03]

If you are playing rec-ball, then I wouldn't worry about lvl 10 tto much.

[SpitFire1299]

I say just keep the level 10+halo b, and dont worry about anything else. :)

[yakitori]

:D
So your emag and viking both chop. So why switch to another gun? Out of the dozen or so lvlx setups I have had none of them ever chopped, unless I had bad paint, which would break in my hopper.

I guess the hopper or brittle paint could be to blame. Im not saying the lvl 10 chopped alot, but I have had 3-4 chops w/ it. It couldve been possible that the halo cracked it and then the lvl 10 chuffed and chopped an already cracked ball.

Actually, when I had my SS emag valve in, it never did it. My EmaX valve seemed a bit harder on the pinch than did my other lvl 10s. Ive perfectly tuned many a lvl 10s before and all of them did not chop, but for some reason that EmaX valve lvl 10 did a few times.

The viking only chops if its the very last ball. And it happens because the halo throws it into the breach, the eyes sense it, and it bounces up into the feedneck partially and get cut. The solution to it is either reload (which is what I do mostly) or slow it down when the halo is almost empty. It is not the vikings fault. Its the halo pushing paint so hard and fast.

[Beemer]

This is in emode right? How do you short stroke it? Hyper or mech mode ya.

I have emag lvl7 foam less bolt, warp SS powerfeed body, Flatline, 850out. no chops
Mech only mode I can chop in a heartbeat if I short it. I can shoot a case in mech with out a chop and then bam I short it[user error]

My X same way.

X-Mag warp lvl10 eyes off, Flatline, 850out, no chops, if it chuffs 50-50 barrel blow
Mech only no chops but if it chuffs, 50-50, it blows down the barrel.

If you can tune the 10 you can do the 7. Let us know whats up?

Peace Out

__________________________________________________

http://home.comcast.net/~beemerone/AoIL.gif

[hobbesTZ]

:D

I guess the hopper or brittle paint could be to blame. Im not saying the lvl 10 chopped alot, but I have had 3-4 chops w/ it. It couldve been possible that the halo cracked it and then the lvl 10 chuffed and chopped an already cracked ball.

Actually, when I had my SS emag valve in, it never did it. My EmaX valve seemed a bit harder on the pinch than did my other lvl 10s. Ive perfectly tuned many a lvl 10s before and all of them did not chop, but for some reason that EmaX valve lvl 10 did a few times.

The viking only chops if its the very last ball. And it happens because the halo throws it into the breach, the eyes sense it, and it bounces up into the feedneck partially and get cut. The solution to it is either reload (which is what I do mostly) or slow it down when the halo is almost empty. It is not the vikings fault. Its the halo pushing paint so hard and fast.

It depends on the board. I beliebe the eye logic on the vapor works boards helps prevent that.

[drg]

rather I dont think a halo is as fast as people claim.. Just remember that it is gravity feed at some point.

Sorry to nitpick, but is this true?