Max out a Classic?

[Snyiper]

Ok I have a old level 7 classic mag std feed. I would like to make it as fast/reliable as possible with the level 7 valve. I'm not into it looking like a million but Id like it to perform like it. Function over fashion I guess I only play rec ball, tourney days are long gone so excessive rates of fire are not important just reliability and accuracy. Give me ideas on the best things I can do and what they accomplish.

[LudavicoSoldier]

First off, pick yourself up a Level 10 kit, which will stop your classic from chopping when set up correctly. You might also want to look into an Intelliframe with a blade trigger, or a vertical frame from one of our splended dealers (Rogue or Logic). If you want to make you classic a bit lighter, you can ULE your rail, or buy a ULE rail from one of our dealers (again Rogue or Logic). You can also get an aluminum regulator housing for your classic, they were made by Diamond Labs (actually Titanium) and Shocktech (aluminum). That should set you on the right path to a maxi classic. :D

[warbeak2099]

Ditto. Also look into a nice one-peice barrel. A .689 bore should be best.

[vonort]

Level 10 is not a necessity. I've been using a level 7 for years and have no problems with chopping. I do recommend the Intelliframe though. The double trigger is nice. Other than that get a good motorized hopper and your good to go. Thats the beuaty of the 68 Classic. You don't have to do much too them. If you want to put it on a diet then go ULE. Also if you have a hard time finding twistlock barrels and don't want ULE. I think Doc's Machine or WWA makes a cocker thread adapter for the classic.

[JimmyBeam]

i used an egg with my lev 7 and i wouldnt chop. its only when i used a revvy that i would. i know you said you dont need it to look like a million bucks, but if you change your mind, head over to RogueFactor's website.

www.themagsmith.com

[WARPED1]

See if you can get your hands on an old RT Valve or ReTro valve, you can keep the level 7.
Buy yourself an old powerfeed body. I have a bunch on thier way from my grams house up north. See if you can find an older J+J Brass barrel, great old skool barrels.

[warbeak2099]

Or an old BOA barrel. Now there's a great old school barrel.

[FireITup14]

ULT the classic valve. Everyone claimed it couldent be done, until that guy made a video of it and it shot fine.

[WickeDKlowN]

I'll sell you a sanded PF body :D PM me for details.

All you really need is a nice barrel, I've always loved CP Oae-Peice's, and a new grip frame. Intellis are nice, as are Rogue's and Logic's frames if you like the 90* ones. Level 10 is nice if you're having chopping problems.

On a side note, this is my 3,000th post. Yay for having no life.

[Jaan]

If it's a real old level 7, then you might want to upgrade the on / off ... the original ones were very restrictive and you would get "shoot down" during rapid fire.

The Level 10 is nice, especially when you forget to turn on your hopper, which was the only time I would chop with a standard bolt when I used it.

I just put an Intelliframe on my old timer, and it work killer. I wish AGD had come out with that frame 10 years ago.

A good barrel is a must, and get a parts kit and replace the wire nubbin with a plastic one if that's the case and replace the barrel o rings too.

You didn't mention if you're going to use CO2 or compressed air. If you use CO2 you can get it to work reliably and there are a few threads here that will help you out in that case. Jsut do a search for "expansion chamber".

[Snyiper]

Thanks for all the ideas I have a power feed in route but it is a rt hand and I really wanted a left hand. I also went and found a intelli frame as well as a old school sp barrel and the J&J solid brass!! Now I was told the ult wont fit the classic valve it is too big where can I find info one making that work or what would be a good aftermarket on/off that is actually better than stock?

Glenn