who makes the best lube oil

[muskratjim]

hey ao who makes the best lube oil? not just for mags but all around i'm just wondering thanks :cheers:

[Chris42050]

I like KC

[Mag Master 04]

it may sound crazy but PMI oil works lie a champ for me... i have always had great performance out of my markers and not untill just rescently have i changed lubricants

[MadPSIence]

AGD Autolube... simply the best

[Vex]

I've only ever used the AutoLube that came with my MiniMag. I probably should get some new stuff though--it's 8 years old...

[BD_Paintball]

i have used PMI and also shocktech, both worked good

[SummaryJudgement]

.....I make the best natural lube available.... :rofl:

[VFX_Fenix]

KC and Dow 33 are what I use on my various guns and regulators.

For a while before I got Dow 33 I'd grease my spring packs for my Regs with a regular old automotive silicon grease (clear yellow stuff) and before that I used a light bearing grease that my dad used on his bikes.

[68magOwner]

i have always used 100% synthetic airgun oil, avaliable at your local lowes or home depot, a huge bottle for like $3. Works great

[yakitori]

it also depends on what gun you are referring to as each gun has its own recommended oil / lube.

For example. For a mag, autolube would be better to use than PMI oil. Although there is probably no notable difference, its just what is recommended by AGD. For a viking/excal Xtremelube is better than autolube or PMI. Again, recommended by AKA.

For a matrix, freestyle, or timmy, dow 33, slick honey, or any of the other various recommended lubes will be best.

If its just plain gun oil. Like 68MO said, you can get a big bottle of synthetic air tool oil for cheaper than pbgun oil and it is essentially the same thing.

KC trouble free is good too.

I personally use extreme lube for AKA guns and run it through my viking internally, but use air tool oil on the tank orings, bolt, and to wipe clean the gun, just because its cheaper than using my AKA lube to do those things w/.

[MoneyShot]

I just use my autolube oil for my mag, it works great for me

[Asym]

K-Y (http://www.k-y.com/index_us.jsp)

[hitech]

The only Hitech Lubricant (http://www.kercon.com)

[cdacda13]

Gold cup or
WDP love oil/grease

[SpitFire1299]

Gold Cup, PMI.. those are what i use. K-Y for the skin.

[nt2004]

i use slick honey on my proto, its the best I've ever seen

[Shane-O-Mac]

Grease,
It seems to be very popular on pbnation to have some odd named grease, and of course the one someone finds/chooses, is WAY better than the other.......lol

IMHO, all those greases/lubes can be thrown out the window, or used on bicycles or whatever, other than paintball products. Everyone started using Dow33 when SP said to use it, and the ONLY good reason i can think of to use Dow33 is for the max-flo and shocker (old shoebox) when using CO2. To my thinking, it is way too sticky to help, yes it helps parts slide against each other, BUT the viscosity of them slows everything down. When dealing with regs and air systems, slowing parts down is NOT good.

To the many people who do not know me, i worked as a traveling tech for Air America, and i have personaly seen the difference of Dow type products (Dow33, slick honey, judy butter, etc) and a product AA used called "Chemplex". On an armegeddon i lubed it up with dow33, and tested it. Guess what? it slowed the recharge rate down and gave inconsistant pressure outputs. When cleaned and lighty lubed with Chemplex, the performance went back up. Chemplex can be found online. Another cool thing about chemplex is that it seems to bond to metal, what i mean is that after lubed up with chemplex a part can be lightly wiped off and it still has the slickness from the chemplex, and no sticktion. I also found out that if you very lightly wipe some chemplex on a shiny anno job, and buff it in, it will restore shine, and will not attract dust, think of Armor All for your pball marker.

Grease was meant for staying in place while it has major weight on it. What i mean is that grease, is for bearings, which have a load on them and has to support weight. regs and pball guns dont have nearly that much pressure on it. Now if you grease a reg piston, you may think it has 900psi of pressure on it, but the piston doesnt get pushed into the sides of the piston housing, so it has little pressure on it.

So IMHO, use grease for bearings and weight bearing parts, and use a good airgun oil or Chemplex, for pball markrs, regs and airsystems.

Btw, Chemplex works well for halo belts, it rehydrates them somewhat and keeps them pliable and nice. I belive i found Chemplex on a website for copier repair parts, and they recommended it for copier belt lubrication.

Shane-O

[Gumbe]

See i never even put thought into wat lube is better...


so quick question

what lube is best for an ion and wat will happen if i put let say PMI oil or automovtive oil on it? :confused:

[Shane-O-Mac]

IIRC, doenst SP recommend that you lube the gun after every 6 cases or something?

Anyhow, you should be fine with a good coating of KC or similar, try it out, it wont hurt anything.
it might even help with FSDO, dont really know myself. If SP recommends Dow33, then use it if nothing else works. It is always best to try things and decide for yourself. dont trust just anyone online.

Shane-O







See i never even put thought into wat lube is better...


so quick question

what lube is best for an ion and wat will happen if i put let say PMI oil or automovtive oil on it? :confused:

[yakitori]

dont put oil in your Ion. It will drown out the noid, and possibly make the orings swell. They say use Dow 33, which is what you should use.

Ive NEVER had FSDO w/ my Ion. Use what the owners manual tells you to use. I lube my Ion about every 2 cases or so.

[Shane-O-Mac]

Drown out the 'noid? Huh?
Swell the O-Rings?

Ok, if you use KC, pmi oil or even auto-lube, it will NOT swell O-rings. Those oils are formulated for pball guns, and regular petroleum based oils only swell black buna o-rings, it doesnt affect urethane O-rings. Tippmann has recommended Hoppes #9 oil (petrolium base IIRC) from day one, and they havent had any problems with o-ring swelling.

Drowning out the 'noid? where have you heard anything like that? Seriously how much oil do you think your gonna use in a gun? On a spool gun, like the Ion, all you want is a light coat on the o-rings. I mean drop 2-3 DROPS of oil on them, them lightly smear it around with your finger. there wouldnt be enough left over to drip into the 'noid, and even if it did, what tiny amount dripped into it shouldnt really hurt the 'noid.

And do you know why your Ion doesnt have FSDO? they program the boards so that the dwell is longer on the first shot to compensate. Thats why i dont personally like spool valve guns. IMHO, having to lube your gun every 2-3 cases of paint is not good engineering. But the gun is a decent gun for the price.

If you feel any hesitation to use something other than factory recommended lube, DONT!
But it wont hurt anything to try another route, and decide for yourself.

Shane-O

[yakitori]

why use oil if you are going to disassemble and lube w/ your fingers as you suggest. Oiling guns should be done throught he macro fitting into the reg, or the ASA. And when you do that w/ the Ion, you are gonna get much of the oil in the noid.

You are comparing guns w/ different types of orings. Tippmann uses urethane, and the Ion uses Buna. Not that bunas cant be lubed w/ oil, but they will begin to stick eventually.

Can you please prove that SP adds dwell to their first shot on the Ion. How much dwell is added. Usually the reason ppl add dwell to the first shot (ie WAS 1.6 for AKA guns) is to break free the bolt stick, or hammer orings stuck from sitting there. That doesnt happen w/ the Ion if it is lubed w/ shocker lube or dow 33. And You are the first person I have ever heard say that SPs Ion board adds dwell to the first shot. If that were true, then if the bolt wasnt stuck, then you would be getting first shot hot. Which doesnt happen.

Ill bet if you put gun oil in your Ion, not only will it void the warranty (not a big deal), you will likely develop FSDO.

Dont do it. Just use Grease like its recommended.

Your noid should be clean and dry, not wet w/ oil.

and btw. The ion is blow forward and not a true spool valve. Just so ya know. AND angels, timmys, and vikings are ram driven guns that can have FSDO too. It has nothing to do w/ the valve design.

[Athius]

hey ao who makes the best lube oil? not just for mags but all around i'm just wondering thanks :cheers:


KY???

[Lohman446]

Yeh umm... not PG13 - edited

[Shane-O-Mac]

Why ido you say that the only way to oil a gun, is putting it though the asa? When you do that on Blowback guns it is to spread the oil thru the WHOLE gun, on something like an ION, we just want to oil the bolt O-rings. and I believe that if a tiny bit of oil was cycled thru the 'noid, that it wouldnt hurt it at all. I will try and find out from someone more reputable on 'noids.

Honestly i cannot "prove" the FSDO programming. But i do know it exists in many guns ( i will try and get some proof). Spool valve guns, have a inherant problem as the o-ring, on the valve end, is usally the only one in there, and because of this, when it sits, it gets cocked a little sideways, which makes it stick just a tiny bit. so once you are shooting it doenst occur because your shooting consistanly. I did not know that the Ion uses buna rings, that doesnt make much sense, urethane are not much more expensive. Anyhow, I'm not going to try and convince anyone about this, like i said, try it for yourself if you want, I even posted to not trust just anyone online, that even applies to ME.....Lol. My main point is grease isnt as great as everyone thinks, Sp and others have hyped it to the point where just aboout everyone belives it.

Mainly i was refering to air systems, but If I had an Ion, i wouldnt hesitate to use a different lube other than Dow33. I only recommend it because of the experiances with air systems and what Dow33 and products similar to it, do to pball gun parts and air systems. I am not trying to be a "Oil Crusader" or anything, just throwing out my experiance with lubes.

Bottomline, USE WHATEVER YOU FRIGGIN WANT!!!!!!!........................LOL


Shane-O

[deathstalker]

Hands down, KC Trouble Free is THE best paintball oil. (http://www.kercon.com/comparisonchart.htm)

[MAGS_R_COOL]

Personally for my DM5 i used slick lube, but then i switched to SHOCKTECH GUN BUTTA. THis stuff is awesome. I left my gun at my house on vacation, come back 3 weeks later, the lube hadnt even stuck to the inside of the gun, just as slick as wen i first put it on. For my mag I like Gold Cup.

[m20power]

SUPER LUBE!!.....its just super. 100% safe to eat. so if you eat while teching guns its ok. Can handle from -45 to 450 degrees F. Its cheap. I payed 9 dollars today for 400grams.

Its good enough for Bonebrake techs. I know that Kevin and Marty use it.
Sometimes its too thick thou so you can mix it with a synthetic oil.

Gold Cup is evil. It always turns o rings brown. Your better off using a full synthetic oil.
I also hate Love Juice with a passion. I dont see how people can pay 5 dollars for WDPs oil or grease that is terrible for your gun. Dyes lube also has issues. Its just too thick and you get too much stiction with it.

[bambam]

Crisco Vegatable Oil!!! :dance:

[WickeDKlowN]

I really want to make a joke involving my 'Cocker and KY Warming Liquid, but I know it'll get edited.