Soon to be viking owner

[Gunther_mag_user]

I am a viking noob and I have some questions.
- What kind of tank should I get? (high/low - Preset/adjustable)
- What will I need to maintain it?
- Any stock parts that need replacing? (detents and such)
- What kind of feedneck threads?
- What input pressure is best for optimum performance?
- What should I avoid doing?
- What are the different versions of scm? (is 3 alot better than 1 or 2?)


etc. etc.

I dont want to do anything stupid and mess things up. I am asking here on AO because I trust the people here. Please dont come and tell me to search, as I have learned as much as I can without asking directly.

Thanks for all the help in advance.

- Also, I am thinking of getting a fillstation and some reballs for my personal use. Anything I should know? Any recommendations on fillstatons/tanks? Will I need any training? Do you have to be a certain age to get a scuba filled? etc. etc.

Thanks
Gunther

[Gunther_mag_user]

Also, where can I find reballs for a good price? Ive seen them go for cheap but I dont remember where. Any help would be appreciated.

Gunther

[minimag03]

I am a viking noob and I have some questions.
- What kind of tank should I get? (high/low - Preset/adjustable)
- What will I need to maintain it?
- Any stock parts that need replacing? (detents and such)
- What kind of feedneck threads?
- What input pressure is best for optimum performance?
- What should I avoid doing?
- What are the different versions of scm? (is 3 alot better than 1 or 2?)


1) Doesn't matter as long as it's HPA. I prefer HP so you can use it on any marker.
2) Extreme Lube / Gold Cup / Autolube / Palmer Oil (and a rag to whipe it down with)
3) The barrel is about the only thing that needs to be changed. If it doens't have eyes, then you need those too.
4) AKA / Borg
5) 200-220 from HPR, 72 from LPR (don't mess with the LPR, leave that to the AKA techs)
6) Messing with the LPR, the wires and connecters on the board can be kinda tricky, just stay out of the marker once you hvae you trigger set, nothing stupid
7) The only SCM for the Viking is 1. There is not real difference between the first two versions. The 3rd version hasn't had good quality control; don't buy it.

EDIT: The AKA forum is the best place for help:
http://www.pbnation.com/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=149

[Automaggot68]

1) Doesn't matter as long as it's HPA. I prefer HP so you can use it on any marker.
2) Extreme Lube / Gold Cup / Autolube / Palmer Oil (and a rag to whipe it down with)
3) The barrel is about the only thing that needs to be changed. If it doens't have eyes, then you need those too.
4) AKA / Borg
5) 200-220 from HPR, 72 from LPR (don't mess with the LPR, leave that to the AKA techs)
6) Messing with the LPR, the wires and connecters on the board can be kinda tricky, just stay out of the marker once you hvae you trigger set, nothing stupid
7) The only SCM for the Viking is 1. There is not real difference between the first two versions. The 3rd version hasn't had good quality control; don't buy it.

EDIT: The AKA forum is the best place for help:
http://www.pbnation.com/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=149

Only thing I'd change -- ONLY use the AKA lube.

[68magOwner]

I am a viking noob and I have some questions.
- What kind of tank should I get? (high/low - Preset/adjustable)
- What will I need to maintain it?
- Any stock parts that need replacing? (detents and such)
- What kind of feedneck threads?
- What input pressure is best for optimum performance?
- What should I avoid doing?
- What are the different versions of scm? (is 3 alot better than 1 or 2?)


-Dosent matter, i use a HP crossfire myself, but, anything will work
-100% synthetic lubricant
-stock trigger, feedneck, barrel, and grips are all i would really reccomend
-AKA, its actually autococker barrel threaded for the feedneck
-from tank? dosemt matter, from LPR- AKA says 72, but, i run mine at ~60 and performs much nicer IMO (less recoil and noise)
-dont mess with the LPR pressure without a toolkit, dont dis-asymble it for no reason
-I have heard more compliants about the 3 than any other version. Otherwise, there preety much the same.

[Vex]

Also, I am thinking of getting a fillstation and some reballs for my personal use. Anything I should know? Any recommendations on fillstatons/tanks? Will I need any training? Do you have to be a certain age to get a scuba filled? etc. etc.

Thanks
Gunther
Minimum age would be 10; however, you may be required to show proof of dive certification--it depends on your local dive shop. A lot of shops will ask for your cert. as a CYA thing.
Also, you'll need to keep your scuba tank in hydro as well.

[MicroMiniMe]

Yes, only AKA extreme lube. Unless you have air tool oil (100% synthetic).
Its already got the best reg and LP reg you'd want.
All you need is lots of paint.
Some prefer slight trigger jobs, like taking out the trigger spring if running the stock switch, or a cut spring with lighter switches.
A variety of triggers can be found by JMJ, NERV, and Froth.
Many are just fine with the stock blade or JMJ razor blade.

[Echo419]

68magowner runs his Viking at 60psi... ask him anything about vikings if you have questions.. he's an EXPERT

[minimag03]

Only thing I'd change -- ONLY use the AKA lube.


Yes, only AKA extreme lube. Unless you have air tool oil (100% synthetic).

AKA Mastertechs have said you can use other lubes. I have used Autolube in mine for over a year without a problem. Extreme lube costs like $8, and there is no use in making him buy it if he doesn't need it.

[68magOwner]

AKA Mastertechs have said you can use other lubes.
Go to lowes/home depot, go to the airtool section, can get a big bottle of 100% synthetic airtool oil for $3 that will last you more than a lifetime and work wonderfully.

[yakitori]

I agree w/ 68magO. I bet your dwell is above 13ms to have your LPR at 60. Mines at 66-68psi and my dwell is at 11ms. Same as when it was at 72psi. My ABS dwell on Tadao boards is 5ms added for first shot...No FSDO.

I think my inline pressure is more like 170-180 w/ Mitey max. Usually ppl are under 200psi in most cases. I only have to chrono to 270 for indoor though. But I dont think I would have to raise it that much to get to 285 or so.

Gold cup or autolube turns your orings yellow. I dont use it on my viking for anything but wiping down the outside, and lubing the bolt.

You can use synthetic air tool oil too. Your best bet would be to just use AKA xtreme lube. Its only 8 bucks a bottle and last you a very long time.

No SCM 3 is not any better than the others. If you have no problem w/ a stock LPR, leave it alone. I still use my stock one on my 03. SCM is not really much of an upgrade. If you have problems w/ your LPR then go ahead and get the SCM to replace it, but dont go buy the SCM expecting to see a dramatic improvement. Stock LPRs rock too.

Learn to program your board.

Know the terms

Dwell
Debounce
Loader delay
FSDO and how to eliminate it

Also know how to scroll through menus and submenus on your gun. WAS and Tadao are done easily through the trigger, but Ive heard Pandora is less user friendly and has many submenus.

NEVER adjust your LPR w/o a tool kit.

2 drops of oil in the ASA/macro, drop of oil on the bolt, take the barrel off, cycle it 30-40 times. chrono....go play.

[rkjunior303]

Don't MESS with the LPR without a TOOLKIT. It's adjusted in such fine increments, you don't want to blow your noid.

[68magOwner]

[QUOTE=yakitori] I bet your dwell is above 13ms to have your LPR at 60. [QUOTE]

actually, your dead on, its right at 13 ms, is smoother and quieter than either DM5 on the team, im in love with the thing.


Also, i had the pandora board, and never had any problems with the programming at all. Although some goobers cant seem to figure it out. Currently using tadao, and i suggest you pick one up asap. Great upgrade for the marker, does everything you want and more.

[yakitori]

[QUOTE=yakitori] I bet your dwell is above 13ms to have your LPR at 60. [QUOTE]

actually, your dead on, its right at 13 ms, is smoother and quieter than either DM5 on the team, im in love with the thing.


Also, i had the pandora board, and never had any problems with the programming at all. Although some goobers cant seem to figure it out. Currently using tadao, and i suggest you pick one up asap. Great upgrade for the marker, does everything you want and more.


I knew it. Hey also what ABS dwell do you have your Tadao set to. So, your LPR is at 60psi, your Dwell is at 13ms, and the ABS is 3-4ms?

I may try that setting just to see what I think. Like I said, mines at 66-68psi and a dwell of 11ms. I cant complain about the kick at all. I cut the back off my 03 bolt and reduced the weight by about 8 grams or over a quarter ounce, which helped some. Shoots so smooth.

[Automaggot68]

I agree w/ 68magO. I bet your dwell is above 13ms to have your LPR at 60. Mines at 66-68psi and my dwell is at 11ms. Same as when it was at 72psi. My ABS dwell on Tadao boards is 5ms added for first shot...No FSDO.

I think my inline pressure is more like 170-180 w/ Mitey max. Usually ppl are under 200psi in most cases. I only have to chrono to 270 for indoor though. But I dont think I would have to raise it that much to get to 285 or so.

Gold cup or autolube turns your orings yellow. I dont use it on my viking for anything but wiping down the outside, and lubing the bolt.

You can use synthetic air tool oil too. Your best bet would be to just use AKA xtreme lube. Its only 8 bucks a bottle and last you a very long time.

No SCM 3 is not any better than the others. If you have no problem w/ a stock LPR, leave it alone. I still use my stock one on my 03. SCM is not really much of an upgrade. If you have problems w/ your LPR then go ahead and get the SCM to replace it, but dont go buy the SCM expecting to see a dramatic improvement. Stock LPRs rock too.

Learn to program your board.

Know the terms

Dwell
Debounce
Loader delay
FSDO and how to eliminate it

Also know how to scroll through menus and submenus on your gun. WAS and Tadao are done easily through the trigger, but Ive heard Pandora is less user friendly and has many submenus.

NEVER adjust your LPR w/o a tool kit.

2 drops of oil in the ASA/macro, drop of oil on the bolt, take the barrel off, cycle it 30-40 times. chrono....go play.

And people say that you dont contibute to AO :cheers:

BTW. I HATE the color red. I love your viking.
I miss mine.

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