Spyder Crap

[Lenny]

Okay. My team and I are in this tourney series and we're playing Division 2, which is blowback markers only. I have a Spyder TLX w/ a Freak and an ESP CAMD w/ 50g switch and I use nitro. This this is dead accurate when taking single shots, but once trying to accomplish anything high, the kick is so horrible that it throws my aim completely off :cry: .

Autocockers are legal (mech only), but I'm really low on cash and was just wondering if there are any good upgrades to lower kick. Obviously, low pressure upgrades would be great also. I'm thinking about a Madman LP valve, and some kind of reg (any good cheap suggestions?) and possibly a delrin bolt (any suggestions?). How are these? What other upgrades can I get for relatively cheap that will help reduce kick?

This thing is very accurate when shot slow-moderate, and I've actually outshot my HALO before with the 50g :shooting: (only once, that was a good day), even the range is good (285 fps avg.) And I really like how light and easy it is. If I had the money, I 'd get a 'Cocker, but for now, any suggestions?


P.S. - :dance: I love this banana! :dance: go banana go :dance: !

[buzzboy]

If you want a good cheap inline reg get a palmer stabalizer. I am pretty sure you can get them for around $100.

[Drew Perkins]

aka makes wonderful regs, I like the sidewinder. They have a tornado valve that is supposed to be nice, and a lightning bolt. www.akalmp.com

[warbeak2099]

For kick reducing:

LP Valve
Madman Spring kit for fine tuning
Aftermarket striker
Delrin/Nylatron bolt

Good cheap regs:

Bob Long Torpedo
CP Reg

Good LP valves:

Madman
AKA Tornado
New Designs

Good bolts:

AKA Lightning
APM Tigershark
ACP Blue Bolt
Spudnuk'l

Good strikers:

ACP Magnum AP
Dark Horizon Titanium
IPS Nightstriker XL

[JoshK]

Another great bolt is the Shocktech delrin bolt. I have one in my impulse, and it is great.

[Lenny]

I've seen videos on Jayloo of LP Spyders that have litterally no kick. That's what I want. Thanks you guys for all the help. At least now when I do stumble upon the money to buy a 'Cocker, I'll have a pretty good backup.

[DaveSM]

Funny facts :

1- The stock cocker valve is as good as any other valve because the valve port are propely tuned.

2- To reduce the kick of a cocker the best way is to get it heavier with light moving parts. Get a stock 2k2 unmiled body andyou should feel less kick. F=MA

3- A sping kit is always good to have with any nelson or sheridan based marker.

[SpitFire1299]

my spyder kicks a lot too, lol. I dont use it much, but to make it kick less i turn down the velocity a lot. I have a really nice microswitch in it too.

[Destructo6]

A good, inexpensive, reg is the Ergo-reg, which can be had off Ebay for about $30. It's the same as the standard WGP regs. ie:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Autococker-Paintball-Ergo-Regulator-Black_W0QQitemZ7178791839QQcategoryZ36285QQrdZ1QQc mdZViewItem

To operate better at lower pressures, a Magnaport Valve can be had on Ebay for about $14. ie:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Paintball-Spyder-Magna-Port-Valve-Kit-w-Max-Flow-Pin_W0QQitemZ7178288576QQcategoryZ47253QQssPageNam eZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I have both of these on a Spyder Imagine and run well at 325psi. I did ditch the supplied cup seal setup on the Magnaport and installed a Black Magic Cup seal. Also, make sure you get the valve stem with the Magnaport valve.

[Webby]

Simple and free way to reduce kick is to remove the venturi in the stock bolt. Opens up the air way thus allowing more gas to go to the ball. This increases the velocity so you can lessen the spring tension thus giving you less kick.

Pick up a Maddman Spring kit, replace the stock valve spring with the lighter one and do the same for the Hammer spring. Cheap, and will reduce the kick some more.

If you desire in spending roughly 100 bucks into your Spyder, invest in a Maddman Rocket Valve, best bang for your buck. Make sure you have a regulator before using this valve however, Bob Long makes the Torpedo which is another good product for the money. These both in combination will drop your operating pressure to the 300-400psi range, perhaps even lower.

Food for Thought

[deathstalker]

Others have provided great advice so far, so I'll add a few cents. "Back in the day", we had to drill out the air passages in our vertical adapters and ASA and remove CO2 filters from the fittings to increase air flow, allowing us to lower pressure. I don't know how Kingman manufactures their markers nowadays, but that was one of the first things recommended, along with removing the venturi insert from the bolt. Check http://www.ottersccustoms.com for a great Spyder site.

Webby mentioned changing to a light valve spring, which will definitely allow you to lower your pressure, but your efficiency will most likely take a severe hit. I would first change only to a light hammer spring and then use a lighter valve spring if the recoil is still not to your liking.

Just some food for thought: most of us, when rapid-firing, have incredibly poor posture and technique (this is the real reason it's called "spray-and-pray"). Make sure it's not HOW you are shooting fast that pulls your marker off target. Also, you would be surprised how much more control you have if you develop more upper body strength. The first lesson I learned about paintball was how physically demanding it can be. My whole upper body was sore for a week when I first played, resulting from being out of shape. Now, I might drag my butt around by the end of the day, but I don't have the massive soreness in my arms, shoulders, and back as when I first started playing.

[Vwise]

I have no clue what budget your on, but with people mentioning 100$ parts for a spyder. U can pretty much get a fully upgraded mech cocker for 200$ and a decent e1 for 300$ u just have to look around in the forums. but if u wanna stick with the spyder thats cool too.

[nerobro]

Kick... affects things after the ball has left the spyder... Make sure you return the gun to rest before the next shot and it's not an issue.

My spyder would lay LONG strings of paint no problem... . so the "real" problem may be how you're holding the gun.

There was some sage advice in here. If you want to reduce the kick.. add weight. A weight at the end of the barrel would help keep the barrel on target. And help absoarb the kick you feel.

Probally the biggest factor in a spyder seeming to "kick" a lot isthe fact the gun IS so gosh darned light. It's only a pound and a half IIRC.

[Arstron]

You can pick up a used cocker for $150, ive got one with all new front pneumatics id let go for that. ;)

[nerobro]

And you'd have a slower, short strokable gun. YOu can't screw up a spyder with "user error" like you can a cocker. (mind you, my main gun IS a cocker)

[Automaggot68]

SPIDERS
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