Serious beginner mag problem

[db03]

I have a micromag arena ball marker and after some thought I decided to save up money for a retro valve which I purchased. Anyways I put some oil on all the parts that move in the valve/bolt and gassed it up. When I gassed it up first it blew massive amounts of nitro out the front of the gun from the barrel. I turned the velocity down and got the air to stop coming out of the gun but now the trigger sear is limp it never stiffened even when I hooked it up for the first time. Can anyone help me?? I was under the impression you just hook up the bolt and slaughter house on people. If anyone thinks they can help me that would be great. MAGS RULE BABY…. Till The Day I Die


:headbang: :shooting: :argh:

[grominou69]

first unscrew the power tube tip (the thing the bolt slides over)
remove the carrier and look if the carrier oring is there ... or the lvl 10 oring ... look if they are there and still undamaged ... that should be your problem ....

if everything is in place and undamaged ... you should read and do the whole lvl10 tuning from beginning making sure that you have the correct size oring carrier ....

you should check the on/off orings too to be sure the leak don't come from there

in a mag , if it leaks by the barrel it could be either the lvl10 oring or the on/off oring ...

hope it helps you :D

[wanna-b-ballin']

when you air it up, make sure you are holding the trigger down, then once its fully aired up, let the trigger snap forward. it enables the sear to fully catch the bolt, which seals on the power tube o-ring. also, put around 6 drops of oil in the asa and dry fire it about 30 times with the barrel off.

[db03]

first unscrew the power tube tip (the thing the bolt slides over)
remove the carrier and look if the carrier oring is there ... or the lvl 10 oring ... look if they are there and still undamaged ... that should be your problem ....

if everything is in place and undamaged ... you should read and do the whole lvl10 tuning from beginning making sure that you have the correct size oring carrier ....

you should check the on/off orings too to be sure the leak don't come from there

in a mag , if it leaks by the barrel it could be either the lvl10 oring or the on/off oring ...

hope it helps you :D




How would i unscrew the power tube tip (best tool for the job). i am df going to try doing that and check the oring. but once i get that oring oil or replaced the sear should pop out right... and the retro valve should be KICKIN SOME @SS?!?!

[spsantos]

How would i unscrew the power tube tip (best tool for the job). i am df going to try doing that and check the oring. but once i get that oring oil or replaced the sear should pop out right... and the retro valve should be KICKIN SOME @SS?!?!

This may not help a lot, but to start with, check if your trigger rod (trigger assembly) size is up to specs, i've been getting lots of info on people having its trigger rod length getting shorter after some use (talking about years). Mag's are really susceptible to trigger rod-/ON/off pin length combination.

I mean that if your trigger rod is up to specs, and if you feel that the reactivity is not enough, ON/OFF pin length MAYBE the answer. AGD has .740, .745 ON/OFF pins some of those should either get you there or pretty near. Even neglecting the air pressure(above 800 PSI).

AGD guns work mainly based on steel/O-ring air sealing, so the best fit, while keeping the same O-rings is what we call "broken-in", this is the situation where the O-Rings (the most flexible part) adapt to the PIN working through it. This is true either for lvl 10 (bolt) and also for the on/off valve, in my opinion this is one of the most important factors in a mag performance.

[db03]

This may not help a lot, but to start with, check if your trigger rod (trigger assembly) size is up to specs, i've been getting lots of info on people having its trigger rod length getting shorter after some use (talking about years). Mag's are really susceptible to trigger rod-/ON/off pin length combination.

I mean that if your trigger rod is up to specs, and if you feel that the reactivity is not enough, ON/OFF pin length MAYBE the answer. AGD has .740, .745 ON/OFF pins some of those should either get you there or pretty near. Even neglecting the air pressure(above 800 PSI).

AGD guns work mainly based on steel/O-ring air sealing, so the best fit, while keeping the same O-rings is what we call "broken-in", this is the situation where the O-Rings (the most flexible part) adapt to the PIN working through it. This is true either for lvl 10 (bolt) and also for the on/off valve, in my opinion this is one of the most important factors in a mag performance.


Would using the stock sear instead of using the one that came with the retro valve be a problem.?? they both look the exact same only the screw that holds it in my micromag is a lil to big for the other sear that came with the retro valve. but it fits with my stock one.

[athomas]

What type of retro valve are you using? Is is a stainless steel retro valve or the newer aluminum retro X-valve? Is there a level 10 bolt installed or the original standard level 7 bolt?

[db03]

What type of retro valve are you using? Is is a stainless steel retro valve or the newer aluminum retro X-valve? Is there a level 10 bolt installed or the original standard level 7 bolt?


it isn't the level ten and the retro valve is not the alm. X valve but the older grayish green retro valve.... the steel one.

[athomas]

Ok, you probably need a shorter powertube spacer. That will help seal the front. Then you will need to increase the velocity setting back to a high enough value to shoot the marker.

[emperor_lunchbox]

how can you tell what bolt you have and what valve you have?
I dont have the stock bolt or valve, they were put on the gun by a friend of mine when he fixed my leak problem, which is back by the way...

I am having some problems and I would like to fix them so I can Play.

[luke]

Sounds like the bolt is not catching the sear.

With the barrel off and the volicity turned back up, turn the air on, and push against the front of the bolt with a something stiff and reset the bolt.