cutting drive cone on a reloaderB

[onedude36]

I have a few questions on loaders and such. I have a bp norider and the neck of my empire recently snapped off. I bought a new shell and such and was wondering if cutting my feedneck would reduce the risk of another break. I would think it would help because there would be less leverage, but i want a 2nd 3rd and 4th opinion. I really need to know, because i will probably be practicing supermans next practice, and dont want to break something.

2nd question: if i cut the feedneck and the blue drive cone in it, if i transplanted the internals to another shell with an uncut neck, would that affect performance? I was thinking it might jam or something.

Thanks allot.

EDIT: 3rd question, any one know off hand if attatching a pmi tank to a centerflag dynaflow reg will need any loctite or special torque rating? Ive heard that maxflows can be screwed on hand tight and dont know if i can do this. safety first. thanks.

[neppo1345]

1. Yes, it would cut down the probability of it breaking (did this myself)

2. I can't see any reason why it would cause a jam...but if by chance it did, I think they sell new drive cone assemblies for like $14.00

I really can't belive your feedneck broke in the first place...wow...

[68magOwner]

ok, your not talkinga bout the drivecone at all, but, anyway, yes, the blue part, you can use a cut one in an uncut shell just fine (ive done it)

and yes, just using your hands to put a tank on a reg should be fine, can locktite if you feel the need, but, the pressure should hold it together without.

[Xenocide]

DONT EVER LOCKITGHT A REG INTO A TANK.
Thats how people die.

There are presure reliefe channels in the threading of a reg assembly, so that if the reg begins to unscrew, the presure will vent before turning the bottle or reg into a rocket. DONT USE LOCKTIGHT. You can block those channels and in the event that your reg starts to unscrew, you could severely injure some. Or worse.

Moet regs should be torqued. The presure of the air in the tank should hold the reg in place rather nicely, but frankly, thats not something i would f around with. Find an airsmith, or better yet, take it to a place that does hydros, they might even torque it up for you for free.

[onedude36]

Thanks allot guys. :shooting:

[SCpoloRicker]

and yes, just using your hands to put a tank on a reg should be fine, can locktite if you feel the need, but, the pressure should hold it together without.

Wow.



http://www.galasam.com/imgs/darwin.gif

[CoolHand]

Wow.



http://www.galasam.com/imgs/darwin.gif


Actually depending on what kind of tank/reg combo we're talking about, it usually IS sufficient.

I know for a fact that no one is screwing an unlubricated reg out of a bottle with anything over about 500 psi in it.

The fact is, you can disassemble a CO2 tank because:

A) They almost always have loctite on the threads, which once broken loose, acts as a lubricant (verses dry threads).

B) A CO2 tank will never ever generate more than about 850 PSI.

C) You usually don't unscrew one until it's nearly empty, or has just been used. Both of which result in reduced internal pressures.

You will never get a tank with 4500 psi in it to unscrew from the reg, at least not by hand.

It's because of the static friction force generated on the thread lands by the pressure in the bottle trying to eject the reg out the end of the bottle neck.

It's the basic operating principal behind threaded connections, and is the fundamental reason for why torquing bolts (and anything threaded) causes them to stay tight.

[rkjunior303]

regardless, you should have a certified airsmith mess with the tanks. i'm sorry, when 4500psi is right near my head even if i THINK i know what i'm doing i won't mess with them.

[mobsterboy]

ok, your not talkinga bout the drivecone at all, but, anyway, yes, the blue part, you can use a cut one in an uncut shell just fine (ive done it)

and yes, just using your hands to put a tank on a reg should be fine, can locktite if you feel the need, but, the pressure should hold it together without.
...

DONT EVER LOCKITGHT A REG INTO A TANK.
Thats how people die.


Wow, bps challenge champion and official dealer of deaths due to tank locktiting...
to think if he just read yours, locktited away and then played without coming back to the forums. RIP onedude36 and 68magowners conscience

jk, but really, be careful with info you give. Dangerous crap can happen. I myself, no offense to the AO community, would only trust a mod, a certified airsmith or a long time paintball owner/enthusiast(excluding 68magowner now) about advice concerning the ability to potentially release 4500 psi of pressure anywhere near my body(in case you are a rock, that was referring to my tank).

[Lohman446]

jk, but really, be careful with info you give. Dangerous crap can happen. I myself, no offense to the AO community, would only trust a mod, a certified airsmith or a long time paintball owner/enthusiast(excluding 68magowner now) about advice concerning the ability to potentially release 4500 psi of pressure anywhere near my body(in case you are a rock, that was referring to my tank).

But not SCUBA people, because they get all upset about how we use tanks :D

[TheTramp]

I try not to tell the guys I dive with all the crap we put our fiber wrapped tanks through. :ninja:

They'd be sure I was a deathwish waiting to happen.

[SCpoloRicker]

I try not to tell the guys I dive with all the crap we put our fiber wrapped tanks through.

Yeah, I teach a cert course. My instructor thinks we're all insane.

[FallNAngel]

DONT EVER LOCKITGHT A REG INTO A TANK.
Thats how people die.

Actually, not true.

The chance that the loctite will completely fill and block the entire channel from the expelling air pressure is slim to none. I fail to see any harm in putting a small amount of locktite near the top of the reg threads to prevent the reg from unscrewing when the pressure is low. In the event that the locktite breaks free and the reg does unscrew, having the locktite above the channel will help prevent blocking it.


A) They almost always have loctite on the threads, which once broken loose, acts as a lubricant (verses dry threads).

I don't see how it will act as a lubricant when broken loose. I've never had the screws I was removing (which were locktited in place) come out *easier* than screws without it. There's a noticable difference that the loctited screws are harder.


B) A CO2 tank will never ever generate more than about 850 PSI.

I believe that depends on the temperature the CO2 is at. At "normal" temperature, around 70-80* I think, CO2 puts out around 800psi, perhaps 850... raising the temperature *does* increase the pressure it puts out.

C) You usually don't unscrew one until it's nearly empty, or has just been used. Both of which result in reduced internal pressures.

[CoolHand]

. . . .I don't see how it will act as a lubricant when broken loose. I've never had the screws I was removing (which were locktited in place) come out *easier* than screws without it. There's a noticable difference that the loctited screws are harder. . . . . . . .

When talking about a high pressure connection that depends on the frictional interaction of the threaded faces, anything that interrupts that contact is a lubricant. Red loctite is made to break up into angular fragments when dislodged in order to lock-up in the space between the thread faces when you try to unscrew the fastener. This is still not as secure a connection as if there were nothing there at all.

Any other grade of loctite will break up into rounded fragments that are designed not to lock-up with one another. This definitely qualifies as a lubricant. Ever hear of graphite powder being used as a lubricant? Same principal.

The fact is that a proper torqued dry threaded connection will be harder to break loose than one that is loctited, which will be harder to break loose than one that was assembled with molly assembly lube.

I do agree though that a little red loctite on the top two or three threads isn't going to kill anyone, BUT, it's not really the best solution either.

I will take dry threads torqued to their designed load, over loctite any day for a screw-in tank.

For the cradle mounted adjustables, hand tight is fine. That bottle isn't going anywhere by itself, and you have no reason to be twisting on it. AND, if it's full it's not budging anyway.

[onedude36]

Thanks every one for the help.

Its all being done by an airsmith any way.

/thread