Xvalve Reactive Question

[jaybird2]

Does the x valve act like the tippmann responce trigger and almost let you achieve rapid fire?(by bouncing your finger)

[Dayspring]

Yes, but it requires some modification to do.

It's not SUPPOSED to do that. It just CAN.

[jaybird2]

what kind of moding does it need?it seems if it pushes forward and you are pushing back at the right amout of force you would get the same reaction correct?

[Alpha]

No, its not the same as a responce trigger.

RT= Reactive Trigger, not responce.

Responce Trigger= One shot on pull, one ahot on release. AKA autoresponce

All it does is push your finger back AFTER you've already pulled the trigger

[triggerhappy1]

Not really.

With increased pressure (900psi+ I beleive) it can. But doing that isnt good for your front bolt and sear. With a lot of shims you can get a good amount of reactivity, but barely enough to "bounce" like a Tippmann RT. Still bad for your gun. USE IT THE WAY IT WAS INTENED, unless you want to void your warrenty and possibly screw up your marker...

Seems like theres confusion on what "response" is. Ill try to contrast.

RT(response Trigger) (Tippmann kits)- Piston behind the trigger operated by blowback. Knocks your finger which is pulling the trigger forward and the pressure applied pulls the trigger again when the piston retracts. Preforms like full auto but technicaly its bounce. This is what were refering to with the mag when it becomes so reactive that the sear rod resets the trigger while your pulling it.

Auto-Response- Mode on some electros, and old less common mag frames. Pull the trigger- it fires. Release- it fires again.

Reativity/RT(reactive trigger)- On RT/X-valves and such. Unregulated air is used to refill the dump chamber and reset the trigger faster resulting in a quick shootback of the sear rod after you fire. usualy not strong enough to use like a Tippmann RT unless excessive pressure is applied. This helps avoid shortstroking. Classic mags dont have it, ever try walking a Classic with ULT? constant shortstroking.

Hope I helped clear things up.

[jaybird2]

thank you

[BigEvil]

. But doing that isnt good for your front bolt and sear.


Not totally true. Trigger bounce on an RT will make your bolt and sear wear slightly more than normal. I have a classic RT that bounces like mad. Im the original owner and the only time I changed the bolt and sear was when I installed the lvl10 kit.

There are also a few factors that determine bounce. With the stock RT on/off (non ULT), pin length is just as important as input pressure. The shorter the pin, the more bounce. AGD sells on.off pins in different lengths so you can tune your system to get it where you like it. I myslef just kept slightly shortening my pin until I got it where I like it. (Remember to shorten the part of the pin that contacts the sear and not the end that goes into the on/off orings. AND by shorten, we are talking about like 5 thousanths at a time, which is half the thickness of a LVL 10 shim.

If you need help or more info LMK and I'll see iwhat I can do.