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luke
01-12-2006, 08:47 PM
I've reconsidered this; if you are confident that you can install and adjust the frame yourself I will convert your frame. (I will send a basic set of instructions with your converted frame.) Price is still $100 for the conversion but you must install the frame yourself.

Currently I have converted the:
Spyder ESP frame
Spyder Rocking frame
Mokal Fokus frame
Dragun frame

TDonovan
01-12-2006, 09:44 PM
That's pretty freaking sweet...

zackzel
01-12-2006, 11:45 PM
yeah thats really sweet. And the price is nice too. Very good job man. :cheers:

whistl3r
01-13-2006, 08:03 AM
i have questions:
how many dragun frames do you have in stock?
are the grips on the dragun proprietary? or will any 45s work?
can you get different triggers for the dragun?
will your hyperframe blade trigger work on the dragun?

thx a lot and very nice work luke.

luke
01-13-2006, 10:31 AM
how many dragun frames do you have in stock?
1


are the grips on the dragun proprietary?
As far as I know no one mekes custom grips for the Dragun frames.


or will any 45s work?
No.



will your hyperframe blade trigger work on the dragun?
Yes.


thx a lot and very nice work luke.
Thanks

GT
01-13-2006, 11:29 AM
very nice. Looks like we will have an aforidible alternative for an electro frame.

luke
01-13-2006, 02:07 PM
very nice. Looks like we will have an aforidible alternative for an electro frame.

That was the plan, there are spyder clone frames all over for a great price. :cheers:

peewee
01-13-2006, 07:39 PM
have you tried it with a classic valve??

luke
01-13-2006, 07:45 PM
No.

I really doubt the solenoid has the power to work the on/off...

peewee
01-13-2006, 09:09 PM
what about a ULT in the classic???

luke
01-13-2006, 09:52 PM
Don't know, as I understand it the ULT dosen't work well in the Classic valve.

Coralis
01-13-2006, 11:45 PM
I have a ult in my classic valve (well ok its actually an automag valve, it was made before AGD started calling them classic) and it works pretty well with my hyperframe. Any chance that you will be coming out with a scythe style trigger for the hyperframes?

A-Tach-One
01-14-2006, 11:12 AM
Great job Luke. An affordable electro alterenative, finally. :cheers:

luke
01-14-2006, 11:39 AM
I have a ult in my classic valve (well ok its actually an automag valve, it was made before AGD started calling them classic) and it works pretty well with my hyperframe.

People have got them to work, how well I'm not sure.


Any chance that you will be coming out with a scythe style trigger for the hyperframes?

Never heard the term "scythe style" is this what you mean?

http://www.lukescustoms.com/HF_trigger_New_10-05-a.JPG

These are in stock.

luke
01-14-2006, 11:40 AM
Great job Luke.

Thanks.

UltraMag527
01-15-2006, 10:10 PM
Would a Omega rail work?

BigEvil
01-15-2006, 10:17 PM
People have got them to work, how well I'm not sure.
.


I got one to work. It was noticably slower than the xvalve I currently have in mine. By slower, I mean that the Classic valve + ULT combination resets the sear/solenoid much slower than the X. It has something to do with the fact that the classic pushes the on/off pin back with less force than the xvalve.

So, you could probably get it to work, but your not going to see any extreme rates of fire out of it.

Here is a video clip of me trying out the spydermag with the classic.
linky (http://www.jayloo.com/videos/show_vid/2213.html)

Its obviously much better than a mech trigger, but its not crazy fast. (and I have ok fingers too)

Hope this helped.

luke
01-15-2006, 10:28 PM
Would a Omega rail work?

As long as it is not less than 3/4" wide on the bottom side..

rkjunior303
01-15-2006, 10:42 PM
Hmm.. e-blade frame?

Coralis
01-15-2006, 11:16 PM
I've run my hyperframed micromag 10 BPS ramped and the classic seems to keep up just fine ... have to remember to turn on the revi first though or you have soup coming out the barrel :rolleyes:

luke
01-15-2006, 11:52 PM
Hmm.. e-blade frame?


I'm not sure, can you get me a few pictures? (top and side view without panels)

Recon by Fire
01-16-2006, 12:48 AM
Question:

Are the only modifications made to the rail and trigger frame? I was wondering if you could just have the trigger fram and rail together to be swapped out with an existing set-up Mag (and still be able tos wap back to original rail and trigger).

Does this work with the rocking triggers also?

luke
01-16-2006, 08:48 AM
Are the only modifications made to the rail and trigger frame?

No mods are done to the rail.
ONLY the Mag sear and donor electro frame is modified.

See the mod here. (http://www.lukescustoms.com/page0023.htm)



I was wondering if you could just have the trigger fram and rail together to be swapped out with an existing set-up Mag (and still be able tos wap back to original rail and trigger).

To go back to original you will need a new sear.


Does this work with the rocking triggers also?

Haven't done one yet, but they are pretty much the same as the ESP (in respect to my mod) so I would say YES.

rkjunior303
01-16-2006, 01:58 PM
I'm not sure, can you get me a few pictures? (top and side view without panels)


I don't haveone but I will see if i can get them for you :)

luke
01-16-2006, 02:39 PM
I don't haveone but I will see if i can get them for you :)

I did a search and found one, but the picture was too small to see much.

splat15k
01-16-2006, 03:19 PM
I did a search and found one, but the picture was too small to see much.

whitewolf has a sideview picture:

http://www.whitewolfairsmithing.com/wgp%20marker%20pricing.htm

just scroll down a bit

luke
01-16-2006, 03:38 PM
whitewolf has a sideview picture:

http://www.whitewolfairsmithing.com/wgp%20marker%20pricing.htm

just scroll down a bit

Thanks for the link.

This doesn't look like a good candidate for a Mag conversion. (I'm not saying it's impossible though)

paint magnet
01-16-2006, 10:56 PM
Are Spyder frames CNC machined or made out of pot metal?

luke
01-16-2006, 11:18 PM
Are Spyder frames CNC machined or made out of pot metal?

They are cast aluminum.

To call them "pot metal" is a stretch though.

Thatcher
01-18-2006, 04:28 PM
Hey luke, can you do this with a fokus mokal frame???

luke
01-18-2006, 05:39 PM
Hey luke, can you do this with a fokus mokal frame???

I hope so, I have 2 on order. :)

They should be here next week sometime...

Thatcher
01-19-2006, 02:46 PM
Do you have any plans on carving up some spider grips along with this mod? That would be uber badass

luke
01-19-2006, 03:09 PM
Perhaps, if this takes off I will concider it. ;)

sanity
01-28-2006, 03:55 PM
another classy mod...well done Luke

luke
01-28-2006, 10:03 PM
Thanks. :)

lostrock
01-29-2006, 03:12 AM
i will be getting one of the ESP frames as soon as i get a rt rail and ult parts. Cool frame

luke
01-29-2006, 10:15 AM
Sounds good. :cool:

luke
01-29-2006, 08:05 PM
Hey guys I shot a video of the ESP frame set on full auto, check ot the video here. (http://www.jayloo.com/videos/show_vid/2403.html)

11 Bravo
01-30-2006, 11:55 PM
Your fingers are so fast I cant see them moving. :)

Cool vid. You clearly did a good job on the mod.

luke
01-31-2006, 08:58 AM
Your fingers are so fast I cant see them moving. :)


It's on full auto, I think the F.O. mode is 10 BPS. I just wanted to show that the marker would cycle without any hiccups. :)

Migz
01-31-2006, 04:26 PM
Hay luke are you looking for frames to convert. I have one if you intrested maybe we could make a trade or something it a M3 Piranha frame. I also have a chrome rebel frame that could also work but I currently have it posted on ebay.

StygShore
01-31-2006, 06:14 PM
Luke,

You should have a box in a day or so with all kinds of fun parts in it.

Let me know if you need anything else.

Styg

luke
01-31-2006, 09:06 PM
Hay luke are you looking for frames to convert. I have one if you intrested maybe we could make a trade or something it a M3 Piranha frame. I also have a chrome rebel frame that could also work but I currently have it posted on ebay.

I'm not looking for any right now, thanks. :)

luke
01-31-2006, 09:08 PM
Luke,

You should have a box in a day or so with all kinds of fun parts in it.

Let me know if you need anything else.

Styg

Cool.
How did you ship it, Priority Mail?

StygShore
01-31-2006, 09:28 PM
Yes, priority mail to your PO Box sent out yesterday from Michigan so you should have it by Thursday or Friday.

How fast you been turning these around? or am I the first one to bite on the offer?

Styg

luke
01-31-2006, 09:39 PM
Let me see what's in the box before I answer that. ;)

I'm not expecting anything in the next few days so I can get right to yours ... :)

StygShore
01-31-2006, 09:45 PM
Eh nothing too scary in the box, and don't mind the ticking sound :wow:

Neh, just all the parts you asked for + the bouncebeam eyes, and some lense material if you end up making a bracket underneath the body. I had to send my drop forward and a few extras becasue I have a weird QD on one side of my line that I cant seem to find another one of.

I shipped it with the battery disconnected, and everything is in sections wrapped nicely. I sent a check list of all the parts that should be there, so if you have any problems catch me on here or give me a call, my number is on the paperwork.

Styg

luke
01-31-2006, 10:14 PM
Eh nothing too scary in the box, and don't mind the ticking sound :wow:

Neh, just all the parts you asked for + the bouncebeam eyes, and some lense material if you end up making a bracket underneath the body. I had to send my drop forward and a few extras becasue I have a weird QD on one side of my line that I cant seem to find another one of.

I shipped it with the battery disconnected, and everything is in sections wrapped nicely. I sent a check list of all the parts that should be there, so if you have any problems catch me on here or give me a call, my number is on the paperwork.

Styg

Sounds good, I'll let you know when it gets here. :)

Tack
02-03-2006, 05:17 PM
Luke

I have several people that may be real interested in this mod that come into my store, If I get one I think I can drum up some more business for you. One question, Have you converted the new Spyder double point trigger (I am at home so I can't think of the name of it but I have one in my shop)? If so, I have the frame and a mag that I have been thinking about working on, how much would it be if I sent you the frame and mag?

If you dont' want to put that type of price on the forum, feel free to email me at fatcatpaintball@hotmail.com or pm me here.

Thanks
Tack.

StygShore
02-03-2006, 08:27 PM
Well, you got the box.... what's the prognosis Doctor, can you rebuild it... make it faster? heavier? ( damned pot metal spyder frames )

Keep me posted, and if it works good you can use it as your poster boy for your adds.



Styg



Sounds good, I'll let you know when it gets here. :)

luke
02-04-2006, 11:05 AM
new Spyder double point trigger (I am at home so I can't think of the name of it but I have one in my shop)?

I think it will be fine. From what I can tell it is pretty much an ESP frame where it matters to me.


If so, I have the frame and a mag that I have been thinking about working on, how much would it be if I sent you the frame and mag?

Labor is $100, with a free install. (Shipping and PayPal fees apply)

You will need to send all the parts in, minus the barrel and air system, please include you ULT parts.

luke
02-04-2006, 11:11 AM
Well, you got the box.... what's the prognosis Doctor, can you rebuild it... make it faster? heavier? ( damned pot metal spyder frames )
Styg

Yup, got it yesterday, gonna get crack-a-lack-a-lin on it this morning.

Did you get the T-Board installed and running? I haven't looked at it yet and don't recall from previous conversations.

Gonna send you a PM about the eye in a 1/2 hour or so...

StygShore
02-04-2006, 12:40 PM
T-board is set with factory defaults, has some decent speed to it, but the debounce and dwell could deffinatley be adjusted lower to get a faster rate of fire.

Styg



Yup, got it yesterday, gonna get crack-a-lack-a-lin on it this morning.

Did you get the T-Board installed and running? I haven't looked at it yet and don't recall from previous conversations.

Gonna send you a PM about the eye in a 1/2 hour or so...

luke
02-05-2006, 06:08 PM
Posted a new video on Jayloo.

Check out the Karta-SpyderMag>> here. (http://www.jayloo.com/videos/show_vid/2417.html)

StygShore
02-05-2006, 06:53 PM
lookin good!

Cant wait to get it back and test everything out.


Noticed a couple of double fires in there? was that becasue you were putting in 1000psi to the valve?


Styg

luke
02-05-2006, 08:08 PM
I think your trigger switch is too light unless there is some kind of setting on the board. It will auto fire if the trigger is adjusted up without slack. I put some slack in the trigger and put the return spring on the trigger and it helped a bunch. But like you saw it did take off.

As I under stand it this is a problem with the lighter switches...

I had to check one of your posts, you say it's a 50g, I heard less than 80g would lead to runaway. I can adjust this where it will sweet spot if you look at it wrong....

StygShore
02-05-2006, 09:05 PM
Yeah, it is a 50g switch, came with the frame. Probably with the T-board it makes a bigger difference than the stock board does.

There is a debounce setting that can be adjusted up to maybe help with the runaway.

If you didnt mess with the settings at all, I think default debounce is 2. If you get a chance, up the debounce a little to like 5 or 6 and see if that will stop it from runaway. If not, I may have you switch out one of your 80g switches for me. I sent it with a cut spring for the trigger, is that the one you used, or did you use another you had around?


Does dwell seem to play any type of role with this setup or are you just using the stock dwell settings?


Let me know


Styg



I think your trigger switch is too light unless there is some kind of setting on the board. It will auto fire if the trigger is adjusted up without slack. I put some slack in the trigger and put the return spring on the trigger and it helped a bunch. But like you saw it did take off.

As I under stand it this is a problem with the lighter switches...

I had to check one of your posts, you say it's a 50g, I heard less than 80g would lead to runaway. I can adjust this where it will sweet spot if you look at it wrong....

StygShore
02-05-2006, 09:09 PM
Could input have anything to do with it as well? I only run 800 psi into the setup usually becasue 900+ was causing runaway with my mechanical trigger. I thought you had told me you were going to just run 1000 straight into the valve for the last tests since the tank was almost empty.

Styg

Thatcher
02-05-2006, 10:31 PM
gey those mokals in?

PnueMagger
02-06-2006, 02:09 AM
As soon as I Get some cash together I'm sending my super-Micromag in with my dragun frame. Just promise to continue this mod for a while. (I'm super short on cash and am counting the days untill I can blow another hundred on Paintball)

edit: BTW, I finished that shortened mag valve with the reg cap and a vert PMI pure energy reg i had lying around. Haven't tested it yet, but hopefully the PMI reg is good enough.

luke
02-06-2006, 08:53 AM
Styg,

I'll mess around with it more this evening. I have some 80g switches if nothing else seems to work. They are $16 installed, that cool?

luke
02-06-2006, 08:56 AM
Hey those mokals in?

There was a screw up on shipping. They said they will re-ship them whey they got them back, still waiting...

luke
02-06-2006, 08:59 AM
As soon as I Get some cash together I'm sending my super-Micromag in with my dragun frame. Just promise to continue this mod for a while.

:)



edit: BTW, I finished that shortened mag valve with the reg cap and a vert PMI pure energy reg i had lying around. Haven't tested it yet, but hopefully the PMI reg is good enough

Cool, I'd love yo see some pictures.

StygShore
02-06-2006, 10:15 AM
Sounds good. I noticed the trigger was light enough to fire by letting the weight of the trigger fall back and hit the switch when I got it. I put that spring in there to hold the trigger forward, but if messing with the debounce doesnt fix it, throw in a 80g switch, clean up my terminals on the 50g and I'll put it up on the boards for those people that like the twitch triggers.

Styg



Styg,

I'll mess around with it more this evening. I have some 80g switches if nothing else seems to work. They are $16 installed, that cool?

luke
02-06-2006, 10:51 AM
A guy on PBN mentioned the debounce setting so I'll try that first. :)

Tack
02-06-2006, 11:53 AM
Do you require the ULT kit for this mod to work? If so I'll have to start looking for one to send in along with the parts.

luke
02-06-2006, 12:01 PM
ULT is a must. :)

luke
02-19-2006, 03:57 PM
The Mokal EVX-2 Fokus frame is now available for this mod... :clap:

http://www.lukescustoms.com/Fokus.JPG

I have to say I'm impressed with this frame, it's machined for 6061 aluminum; it's very well assembled and seems to be of top shelf quality. I think all-in-all this is the nicest Spyder clone E-frame I've seen. :cool:

mobsterboy
02-19-2006, 04:07 PM
offset or straight asa bottomline? Luke, you never seem to stop impressing me.

luke
02-19-2006, 04:12 PM
offset or straight asa bottomline?


Straight. (standard 3/4" center line)



Luke, you never seem to stop impressing me

Thanks. :cheers:

zipity_Bop
02-19-2006, 06:22 PM
just got back into paintbal and this idea has been floating around with me for awhile.
I have the spyder frame and thats about it can you give me a complete list of everything taht needs to be sent.
and do you except m/o?

luke
02-19-2006, 06:38 PM
I need a complete marker minus the barrel, stock grip frame and air system.

ie: Spyder frame, RT pro style rail, rt pro sear, body, X valve or RT valve with ULT.

luke
02-19-2006, 06:39 PM
You can pay with a money order or paypal....

StygShore
02-19-2006, 06:49 PM
What's the cost of this frame with the full conversion?

Can you get a weight difference from this to a Spyder frame? I know my spyder frame is akin to a lead brick :)


Styg

Forgot about these frames, I figured they were cheap like the dragon frames.
Wanna swap me a Mokal for the ESP spyder frame you did up for me :)



The Mokal EVX-2 Fokus frame is now available for this mod... :clap:

http://www.lukescustoms.com/Fokus.JPG

I have to say I'm impressed with this frame, it's machined for 6061 aluminum; it's very well assembled and seems to be of top shelf quality. I think all-in-all this is the nicest Spyder clone E-frame I've seen. :cool:

luke
02-19-2006, 07:17 PM
What's the cost of this frame with the full conversion?

Converted frame is $225 with free install.


Can you get a weight difference from this to a Spyder frame? I know my spyder frame is akin to a lead brick :)

Fokus 11.5 oz.
Dragun 10.5 oz.
ESP 11.5 oz.

This is with the battery and conversion as it would be bolted to your marker.



Forgot about these frames, I figured they were cheap like the dragon frames.

No way. :) These are some really nice frames; I was quite pleased with them. Nice machining, what appears to be nice electronics, very nice trigger with fore and aft and tension adjustments. Nice wrap around grips.

From what I've seen out there this is the by far the nicest e frame I've seen.


Wanna swap me a Mokal for the ESP spyder frame you did up for me :)


No thanks I have an ESP frame, besides if these don't sell I'll keep them for myself. :D

StygShore
02-19-2006, 08:10 PM
I should have my wiring harness here shortly and be able to get up a video of mine running. I'll have to bum a Halo off someone to really give it justice.

Will the Spyder ESP frame fit in the Mokal body?

I just ran into a problem the T-board is too wide to allow a standard 9 volt into the frame, so the only thing I can use is the Java 9.6 that came witht he frame currently.

Not sure if this is a T-board hole placement problem ( there is a gap on the other side of the frame ) or a tolerance problem in these frames.


Styg




Converted frame is $225 with free install.



Fokus 11.5 oz.
Dragun 10.5 oz.
ESP 11.5 oz.

This is with the battery and conversion as it would be bolted to your marker.




No way. :) These are some really nice frames; I was quite pleased with them. Nice machining, what appears to be nice electronics, very nice trigger with fore and aft and tension adjustments. Nice wrap around grips.

From what I've seen out there this is the by far the nicest e frame I've seen.




No thanks I have an ESP frame, besides if these don't sell I'll keep them for myself. :D

luke
02-19-2006, 08:23 PM
Will the Spyder ESP frame fit in the Mokal body?

You lost me. Did you mean ESP board in the Fokus frame?

StygShore
02-19-2006, 08:27 PM
Sorry brain fart, yes, will the spyder boards fit inside the Focus frames?

Just looking for an alternative for when the paint peels off and the cast aluminum ESP frame gets all pitted like they usually do.

Styg



You lost me. Did you mean ESP board in the Fokus frame?

luke
02-19-2006, 08:49 PM
It dosen't look like it will work. Besides the boards being diffrent, the Fokus frame uses a smaller cap. and the frame design is completly diffrent in respect to the solonoid placement... (etc.)

luke
02-21-2006, 08:36 AM
I had to approach this frame diffrently than the Dragun and ESP, here is a picture of the modified frame. :shooting:



http://www.lukescustoms.com/Fokus-No_grip.JPG



Clean, yes? :D

StygShore
02-21-2006, 04:54 PM
wow they really packed stuff in there, and that noid placemnt looks liek a much better idea as well, even over the spyder frames.


Styg

luke
02-21-2006, 10:06 PM
There's 101 ways to skin a cat, or so they say. ;)

StygShore
02-24-2006, 04:11 PM
OK.... found a flaw in the bouncebeam eye install you did for me...

The milling of the body was nice, and the body itself does seem to hold the eyes in place.

The only problem is you ran the eyes up through the rail next to the sear.

Half way through a game I Disabled the eyes because they were acting all screwy, and my mag started making funny sounds.

Upon further investigation the wires for the eyes got sucked up into the body and the bolt has sheered 2 of the wires clean in half. I'm thinking and entry point a little further down the grip frame might work a little better


Styg

luke
02-24-2006, 05:31 PM
I know that there was a great deal of wire running from the eye, (and I know you have disassembled the marker since you received it back) did you by chance stuff the wire back up in the rail?

On re-assembly the wire should have been pulled "taunt" through the rail and stuffed in the grip frame, not up in the rail. There isn't much of a choice where to run the wiring because of your frame being an ule, and because it has to be routed to the grip frame which houses the sear. That is also the reason I didn't slot the rail for the wire to be removed as you indicated before.

If the wire is run correctly, there is no way for the wires to be sheared. My guess is there was excess wire shoved up inside the rail. OR, the wire was not reinstalled in the relief groove that was cut between the "ULE pockets" and when you put the marker back together the wires were pinched between the body and rail.

All of this is speculation, but I know if the wires are pulled taunt as I said before, there is no way for the wires to come in contact with the sear.

If you feel I’m in error, send the marker back and I’ll see if there is a different way to route the wires. I’m a little doubtful with coming up with a different solution though because of the rail being a ule, there’s not much material to work with, but perhaps I can find a solution…

StygShore
02-24-2006, 07:18 PM
I pulled the wires tight, even tied them in a knot in the grip frame so they couldnt move much, I think one of them just got tugged by the sear. I did put them into the groove, it looks like it got picked up before the grove area though, closer to the center of the sear assembly.

Can't really say for sure.

Neh, I dont need to send it back to you, you did a great job on it, just not a real feasible way to bring the wires up and thru with all the meat missing in the rail, the grip frame is gapped a little because of a round lower assembly on a spyder, and a flat lower assembly on a mag, so running it allong the frame would prove to have its own issues as well.

Guess thats why most people go break beam and run it out each side of the frame up the sides of the gun body, keeps it completely away from the sear, but exposes the wires outside the marker.

Deffinately not complaining about the job you did, it looks great, just wanted to give you a heads up if soemone else wants the bouncebeam eyes installed. I'll get another set of bouncebeams and see if I cant bring them in a little further up the frame assembly somehow and I'll still use the groove and dilicone idea you had, seemd to hold very well.

I blew through another tank of air in it today messing with my level 10. Shooting about 1000 rounds of year old paint and only broke like 6 rounds of it without the eyes. Hoping fresher paint proves a little better. I'm goign to need to pick up a new hopper though, this pre-BE revvy just aint cutting it anymore with the speed of this thing.

Styg

StygShore
02-24-2006, 07:27 PM
I found the problem I think.

The little wall in the rail that you milled down as a recess groove for the wires on my body is actually cut down a little lower than where the body site in the rail. The wires are so thin one of them can slip into the gap.

I'll get a new eye set and see if I can gets some flexible rubber tube (air bubbler line for a fish tank should work) to run the length of the wires in that part of the body. That should keep them in line better and keep that from happening again.

Or maybe I can have them cut the wires to length before they assemble the eyes for me so there isnt a foot of extra wire I have to cram into the frame :)


Styg

tdogreb
03-11-2006, 08:50 PM
Hey Luke, I'm not famialar with the fokus frame, what kind of board does it have. What modes of fire does it have and what kind of replacement boards can be had for it? Can this be done to an old style RT. My RT will not accept the ult without milling, can you do that?

luke
03-11-2006, 09:55 PM
This is from Mokals site


EVX-II electronic grip frame

The EVX-II electronic frame has a patented system which eliminates the need to adjust the solenoid as with other frames. Upon removing the wraparound grip you will notice that our design is significantly different than other frames. We manufactured the EVX-II-II from 6061 aluminum making it strong enough to support heavier nitrogen and compressed air tanks. Our sear is very robust and the trigger tension is adjustable to suit the players’ liking. There is a charger port at the back of the frame as well as an ON/OFF switch which cuts power to the electronic board. This serves as the safety for the marker.

There are three shooting modes: Full auto, 3 shot burst and semi auto with a tournament lockout allowing only semi auto firing. The mode switch is located at the back of the frame and is recessed to prevent accidental changing of mode while playing. It is capable of shooting up to 14 BPS in semi mode, 10 BPS in full auto and burst mode.

The electronics control the firing sequence with precision and has a battery saving function to prolong battery life. While selecting the mode the LED flashes to indicate the mode of operation. The LED is turned off within 10 seconds after selecting the mode. The EVX-II-II board shuts down after 5 minutes of inactivity and automatically “wakes up” when the trigger is pulled. When the battery is low, the EVX-II-II will automatically shutdown.

It comes complete with a 9 volt alkaline battery pre-installed, installation screws and detailed instructions.

It is available in six colours: Black, Red, Blue, Green, Pewter and Champagne.

Made by Mokal in Canada

This is a VERY nice frame, the nicest I've seen in it's class....

Liquid Plummer
03-14-2006, 10:43 PM
So, having read all of this...

The classic valves cannot get this mod? Seriously? They need it more than any other valve out there.

Great mod though. :)

luke
03-15-2006, 08:53 AM
The classic valves cannot get this mod? Seriously? They need it more than any other valve out there.


Yes, you need the ULT for these frames to be able to fire the marker.

I agree that the classic valve needs ome attention, but I don't know of any frames out there that will fire the classic except the AGD Emag lowers...

paint magnet
03-15-2006, 02:15 PM
Yes, you need the ULT for these frames to be able to fire the marker.

I agree that the classic valve needs ome attention, but I don't know of any frames out there that will fire the classic except the AGD Emag lowers...

The Centerflag Hyperframe and BooYah ELCD (POS though it may have been) work with the Classic valve as well, I believe.

luke
03-15-2006, 03:18 PM
The Centerflag Hyperframe and BooYah ELCD (POS though it may have been) work with the Classic valve as well, I believe.

Didn't they have tons of problems with those frames until the ULT came?

Liquid Plummer
03-15-2006, 07:19 PM
Didn't they have tons of problems with those frames until the ULT came?
I think Centerflag had their own On/Off assembly with the Hyperframe. At least for the retro valves they did. I don't know about the Boo-Yah.

That's why I am (i guess) frustrated. The Hyperframe somehow worked with the Classic valves very well. It would be great to see something, that didn't involve buying a whole new valve costing as much as the marker did new in the first place, amp up their beloved Mag. Was the solenoid in the hyperframe stronger than sear tripper electro-grips?

luke
06-10-2006, 04:13 PM
Added a few more pictures in the first post, conversion with a Spyder Rocking trigger and Tac-One Spyder with eyes. (Now doing eye installs :) )

StygShore
06-10-2006, 04:17 PM
ok whose is the rocking trigger frame, that thing has to be sick!!!!

Styg

luke
06-10-2006, 04:21 PM
It belongs to a guy here on AO.
That thing is fast!

hitech
06-12-2006, 05:37 PM
The classic valve should work fine with this mod and a ULT. The ULT works well with a classic valve and a hyperframe(straight from Tom), so there is no reason to think it would not work with this frame.

:dance:

:cheers:

_____________________________________________
<img src="http://www.synreal.net/sig/hitech.gif">

Hey Hitech your starting to sound like me! - AGD
Hitech is the man.... :eek: - Blennidae
The only Hitech Lubricant (http://www.kercon.com)

warbeak2099
06-13-2006, 09:56 AM
Luke, how come you won't do it for a classic railed mag? I don't wanna get rid of my Alpha rail, but I'm seriously considering having this done. I've already got my Alpha rail milled for eyes and covers!

luke
06-13-2006, 10:20 AM
Because the rail is to narrow and will not provide a flat base for the eframe to bolt to. The donor frames are wider than the classic rails and only have flat top around the out side edge.

warbeak2099
06-13-2006, 05:55 PM
? It's been done many times to a classic railed mag.

Example#1 (http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=181693&highlight=spydermag)

Example #2 (http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=167678&highlight=spydermag)

There are also a couple on pbnation. Perhaps the newer ESP frame you're using are wider. My ESP frame I have laying around is not too wide at all. It's only about 3-4mm wider than my mag frame.

Very curious indeed. I wonder if there are differences in different Soyder e-frames.

luke
06-13-2006, 08:32 PM
Ok, you want to use a classic rail, fine, send me the parts and I'll do the mod, that is if you want a half *** job, makes little diffrence to me the price is the same.

warbeak2099
06-13-2006, 08:45 PM
Woah woah, I'm sorry Luke. I didn't mean to upset you or anything. I really like how you do the mod and it looks like a great upgrade. I just really want to figure out if maybe it's possible. That's why I'm wondering if there are different spec spyder e-frames out there. Trust me, I realize you know what you're doing more than I. I would never try to say that you're wrong and the frames you've used aren't too wide for classic rails. I'm just putting a question out there that maybe there are some frames floating around that can actually work on classic rails. You know, like the ones some people have used to make their spydermags. Again, sorry Luke. I didn't mean to provoke any anger from you. I'm still trying to see if I can get my homemade mod to work. If not, I'd be very interested in helping you figure out if maybe there's some frames that could actually work for customers who don't want to ditch their classic rails.

luke
06-13-2006, 08:47 PM
http://www.lukescustoms.com/SM-2.JPG

See the top of the frame where it was milled flat, (the silver area)? That gives the frame a flat even mounting surface. The AM/MM rail sits between the milled area (and it is round), which can may cause miss alignment between parts. That is why I said you need a RT pro style rail, it wider and fits the way it should.

If you guys want me to simply convert your frames and let you assemble, fine tune and adjust the new sear, that's fine by me. Just don't bad mouth me if you have problems...

luke
06-13-2006, 08:56 PM
Woah woah, I'm sorry Luke. I didn't mean to upset you or anything. I really like how you do the mod and it looks like a great upgrade. I just really want to figure out if maybe it's possible. That's why I'm wondering if there are different spec spyder e-frames out there. Trust me, I realize you know what you're doing more than I. I would never try to say that you're wrong and the frames you've used aren't too wide for classic rails. I'm just putting a question out there that maybe there are some frames floating around that can actually work on classic rails. You know, like the ones some people have used to make their spydermags. Again, sorry Luke. I didn't mean to provoke any anger from you. I'm still trying to see if I can get my homemade mod to work. If not, I'd be very interested in helping you figure out if maybe there's some frames that could actually work for customers who don't want to ditch their classic rails.


It’s just irritating because I answer the same question 30 times a week. I really don’t want to do a half-*** job that works some of the time.

Really, if you want to use one it’s up to you. Send me a frame to convert, the rest is up to you.

And yes, I know others are using the classic rails, but then again my mod is a far cry from what they are doing….

luke
06-13-2006, 09:03 PM
If not, I'd be very interested in helping you figure out if maybe there's some frames that could actually work for customers who don't want to ditch their classic rails.



ps, sorry for getting a little ticked off, you just caught me at the wrong time.


EDIT_EDIT_EDIT_EDIT_EDIT_EDIT_EDIT_EDIT_EDIT_EDIT_ EDIT_EDIT_EDIT_

You can not use and original Automag/Minimag rail they are to narrow for the E-fame to bolt to. All others should be fine.

Also, the bottom of the rail is too thin for the new sear to operate.

AND, after I mill the top of the frame the bottom of the AM rail interferes with the operation of the trigger.


(this edit is not for "warbeak2099")

warbeak2099
06-14-2006, 12:05 PM
I completely understand lol. There's a fix you say??? Cool, what would the $25 be for? IMO it'd be totally worth it for me to keep my Alpha.

Oh, and on your site, are those frames "ready to buy" already premade? Do they come with a modded sear so you can just buy it and slap it on without sending your gun in? If so, I can live with just switching to an RTP rail. That would be hella convenient.

warbeak2099
06-14-2006, 05:16 PM
Ah, I see. So for $195 I'd get the frame installed onto my gun. Ah, I think $220 is a great price. I already have the Tboard and eyes. My Alpha is already milled for eyes and covers. Hell, do you accept MO's? I've had a bad experience with Paypal. Would the spacers be visible? I'm excited, I give up on my arachnamag. I just want a spydermag now!

StygShore
06-14-2006, 05:20 PM
You will not be dissapointed!!!

Lukes mod is great, I would go with the Mokal, Fokal, or whatever the frame is called, seems to be a better built frame than the pot metal Kingman uses for their setups.

I was shooting my Luke Spydermag for the last year, and it worked awesome!!! never had to do anything but put oil in it, and keep the battery charged.

alas.. I was oferred an Xmag, and I couldn't turn it down, so my Karta Spydermag has been traded and scattered throughout the mag world in pieces.


Styg

luke
06-14-2006, 06:04 PM
Ah, I see. So for $195 I'd get the frame installed onto my gun. Ah, I think $220 is a great price.

Yes, that's it.




I already have the Tboard and eyes. My Alpha is already milled for eyes and covers.

Cool deal.


Hell, do you accept MO's?

Yes, I do.


I've had a bad experience with Paypal.

Money Orders are no problem.





I'm excited, I give up on my arachnamag. I just want a spydermag now!

Let me know when you're ready and I'll get you an invoice and shipping instructions.

warbeak2099
06-14-2006, 10:25 PM
Right on. Lemme talk to my folks first. I may be 18 but I still live under their roof so I should run it by em. Not that they have ever stopped me from blowing dough on paintball before though!

Oh, and do you by any chance know where to get one of thoe bottomline adapters for spyder frames?

luke
06-14-2006, 10:49 PM
Oh, and do you by any chance know where to get one of thoe bottomline adapters for spyder frames?

No I sure don't. I did a quick check a Action Village and couldn't find one, you might try the Kinman forum (http://www.spyder.tv/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=31) though...

StygShore
06-14-2006, 10:52 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/SPYDER-ADAPTER-PLATE-DROP-FORWARD-NW-BLACK_W0QQitemZ7241282714QQcategoryZ47253QQssPageN ameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

check ebay, probably best bet, thats where I got mine, I had 2, if I can fidn the second one, I'll give it to you.

Luke are the FOKAL frames spyder tapped or standard tapped for the bottomline?


Styg

luke
06-15-2006, 08:38 AM
check ebay, probably best bet, thats where I got mine, I had 2, if I can fidn the second one, I'll give it to you.

Ah-ha! NW products were the ones that made those. They are out of business, but I'm sure they can be found somewhere.


Luke are the FOKAL frames spyder tapped or standard tapped for the bottomline?

Standard mount.

StygShore
06-15-2006, 08:41 AM
Luke you might just want to offer the adapters, all they are is a double tapped aluminum block. One set have nuts on them for the spyder holes, the other set are tapped for standard thread.

Styg

peeko
06-16-2006, 07:29 PM
Just tap inline holes on the bottom of the frame. Therefore no adapter needed.

warbeak2099
06-18-2006, 04:02 PM
Shocktech still makes an adapter. It's $9.99 from them. I'll go with that. Luke, if you could send me an invoice at bohica@rochester.rr.com I'm ready to send my gun out. That would be an invoice for installing one of your existing modded ESP frames onto my Alpha rail with machined inserts. That's $195 for the frame and $25 for the inserts. Just gotta know how much shipping will be. Lemme know where to send my (and tell me i've got this right):

Body
Valve
Rail + Bushing
Sear
ULT Kit

BigEvil
06-19-2006, 06:22 AM
Hey guys,

For those of you wondering about the ULT + Classic valve combo, here is a vid of me and the spydermag I made a while back. It has the classic valve, ult, and t-boarded spyder frame.

It's on Jayloo, so you may have to be logged in.

http://www.jayloo.com/videos/show_vid/2213.html

As you can see, it will work just fine. :clap:

luke
06-19-2006, 08:59 AM
Hey guys,

For those of you wondering about the ULT + Classic valve combo, here is a vid of me and the spydermag I made a while back. It has the classic valve, ult, and t-boarded spyder frame.

It's on Jayloo, so you may have to be logged in.

http://www.jayloo.com/videos/show_vid/2213.html

As you can see, it will work just fine. :clap:

Will the ULT drop right in the Classic valve or do they have to be redrilled?

luke
06-19-2006, 09:09 AM
send me an invoice at bohica@rochester.rr.com I'm ready to send my gun out. That would be an invoice for installing one of your existing modded ESP frames onto my Alpha rail with machined inserts.

Invoice sent.

:cheers:

warbeak2099
06-19-2006, 09:40 AM
Got it. Do I pay now or after you're done with the job? Also, the invoice wants me to use paypal. Can I do MO instead? I had a bad experience with paypal.

BigEvil
06-19-2006, 09:41 AM
Will the ULT drop right in the Classic valve or do they have to be redrilled?

It will go right into any valve with two on/off top orings. On the classic valves the pressure pushing the pin back is alot less than on the Xvalves, so sometimes it will seem slower. I only had straight semi on mine, but I would recomend to anyone using the T-board with the ramping chip to set the rof no higher than 15bps. Anything faster, you can out shoot the valve, and maybe the ability of the sear to reset the noid.

luke
06-19-2006, 10:40 AM
Got it. Do I pay now or after you're done with the job? Also, the invoice wants me to use paypal. Can I do MO instead? I had a bad experience with paypal.

Depends on how fast you want it back, pay now and I can reship as soon as it done. ;)

(It dosen't matter to me, but generally people pay upfront)

warbeak2099
06-19-2006, 11:23 AM
I agree totally. I just know that some custom shops want it when the job is done. I'll send the MO and gun parts together. Gonna ship it ASAP! Who should I make the MO out to btw? Lukes Customs or your name?

Oh, and I had another thing on my mind. I'd like to know if you can drill the two standard bottomline holes on the frame. All these adapter blocks make the gun unnecesarily taller. I'd be willing to pay the extra money to have a shorter profile. I looked at an an ESP frame and there looks like there's enough room. I was just wondering if you could drill and tap the frame so I can just forego the stupid adapter block. Thanks.

luke
06-19-2006, 12:18 PM
I agree totally. I just know that some custom shops want it when the job is done. I'll send the MO and gun parts together. Gonna ship it ASAP! Who should I make the MO out to btw? Lukes Customs or your name?

Same as the shipping name.


Oh, and I had another thing on my mind. I'd like to know if you can drill the two standard bottomline holes on the frame. All these adapter blocks make the gun unnecesarily taller. I'd be willing to pay the extra money to have a shorter profile. I looked at an an ESP frame and there looks like there's enough room. I was just wondering if you could drill and tap the frame so I can just forego the stupid adapter block.

I don't think there is room, I decited early on it was a bad idea, but I'll look again. I don't recall what the problem was.

warbeak2099
06-19-2006, 04:57 PM
Aright, I'll go for the adapter block. With a CP direct mount ASA, the difference should be made up. I'm gonna try and get the package sent out tonight or tomorrow morning.

luke
06-19-2006, 09:26 PM
I guess it would work, add $12 to the total if you want me to set it up. Make sure to note it on the invoice you are sending with the parts if you decide to go this route...

warbeak2099
06-19-2006, 10:32 PM
Oh, cool then. I'll add $12 to the total and write it in on the invoice I printed out. I have to cross out the paypal fees since I'm doing MO too.

luke
06-20-2006, 08:21 AM
I have to cross out the paypal fees since I'm doing MO too.

Yes, thats correct...

warbeak2099
06-20-2006, 01:47 PM
Package sent. The UPS store said I couldn't send it thorugh them since you gave me a PO box. But the Post Office took it. I hope it isn't a problem or anything. You can pick the package up from your PO box right?

luke
06-20-2006, 01:57 PM
:) You were supposed to send it through the post office, that why I gave you my PO box #. ;)

warbeak2099
06-20-2006, 10:21 PM
Hehe, then it worked out perfectly! Can't wait to have my gun touched by Luke!

luke
06-28-2006, 07:47 AM
You can not use and original Automag/Minimag rail they are to narrow for the E-fame to bolt to. All others should be fine.

Also, the bottom of the rail is too thin for the new sear to operate.

AND, after I mill the top of the frame the bottom of the AM rail interferes with the operation of the trigger.

olinar
06-29-2006, 02:34 AM
hey luke i was recently onthe fence between mags or a spyder. i went with the mags but i still want the rocking trigger. now i can get both :) but i dont like how the rocking trigger frame looks. would it be possible for you to convert an intelliframe to a rocking trigger? i know it would probably cost like 300 bucks but i think it would be worth it. are there copyright laws one somethin like this?

luke
06-29-2006, 08:06 AM
Sorry, that is not a service I offer...

tdogreb
07-01-2006, 08:25 AM
Luke, can you do an old style RT. It will need the valve milled for the ULT.

warbeak2099
07-02-2006, 12:00 AM
Luke, have you gotten the RTP rail from MANN or my MO + eye covers? Lmk when you do.

Thanks,
Pete

luke
07-02-2006, 09:00 AM
Yes to the eye covers...

luke
07-02-2006, 09:14 AM
Luke, can you do an old style RT. It will need the valve milled for the ULT.

I'm not completly sure about the RT, but I have my concerns because of the width of the banjo bolt.

I'm not doing valve conversions, sorry...

warbeak2099
07-02-2006, 09:52 AM
Yes to the eye covers...

So the MO wasn't in the envelope with the covers?

luke
07-02-2006, 07:28 PM
So the MO wasn't in the envelope with the covers?

LOL, no it's all fine I just meant I didn't get the rail.

:) PS we can do this through PMs. ;)

warbeak2099
07-02-2006, 07:29 PM
Phew, ok! Lol, got a little scared there. I'll ask about the rail.

luke
07-03-2006, 07:39 PM
UPDATE


I checked the ESP frame with a Classic valve and ULT and it did seem to work fine.

No long term testing has been done though...

luke
08-15-2006, 12:27 PM
up

Liquid Plummer
08-15-2006, 08:49 PM
Any updates on pricing? Oh, and since this thread is now 5 pages long, do you wanna repost the link?
:headbang:

luke
08-15-2006, 09:31 PM
Pricing is $100 for the conversion. (Same as it was in the begining)

http://www.lukescustoms.com/page0024.htm

ricwhic414
08-30-2006, 10:23 AM
so can you just get a new rail for the classics and then send that to you or is the only way for the classics the esp frame

tipp-ed off
08-30-2006, 10:55 AM
Luke could you drill and tap new holes on Spyder frames for standard bottom lines? If so how much $$$? A Spyder mini-rail woud work too.

luke
08-30-2006, 10:59 AM
so can you just get a new rail for the classics and then send that to you or is the only way for the classics the esp frame

Sorry, I'm not sure what you're asking.

The conversion can be used with a Classic valve, but you will need an ULT and an RTP rail.

luke
08-30-2006, 11:01 AM
Luke could you drill and tap new holes on Spyder frames for standard bottom lines? If so how much $$$? A Spyder mini-rail woud work too.

$15 labor (you remove the componants from frame before sending to me)

ricwhic414
08-30-2006, 11:23 AM
Sorry, I'm not sure what you're asking.

The conversion can be used with a Classic valve, but you will need an ULT and an RTP rail.

sorry for the confusion... does any of the spyder frames work like the rocking trigger or does it have to be the esp frame

luke
08-30-2006, 11:44 AM
Go back to the first post, the top picture is the ESP, the second is a Rocking trigger frame. ;)

luke
10-01-2006, 12:44 AM
I've reconsidered this; if you are confident that you can install and adjust the frame yourself I will convert your frame. (I will send a basic set of instructions with your converted frame.) Price is still $100 for the conversion but you must install the frame yourself.

Currently I have converted the:
Spyder ESP frame
Spyder Rocking frame
Mokal Fokus frame
Dragun frame

luke
12-07-2006, 02:08 PM
up