Removing CnC/SFL body Steel Insert??

[bunny5]

Just wondering what the procedure of taking out the steel insert for the CnC and SFL bodys. I read somewhere that only a couple places in the world can do this. If anyone could tell me any information about it that would be great. Thanks.

[MicroMiniMe]

Just wondering what the procedure of taking out the steel insert for the CnC and SFL bodys. I read somewhere that only a couple places in the world can do this. If anyone could tell me any information about it that would be great. Thanks.

Well the main reason for removing the steel washer and C-clip is for reanodizing the body/marker.
One of the first instances of this issue came up with LoadSM5 and his SFL. If you do a search in the dealers forum for 'PBX anodizing' started by Smokee_7 or vangogo the thread there has a good story about it. PBX/Barry doesn't do anodizing anymore last I heard.

BUT, the gist of the solution is two ways. Easiest is have a good anodizer. The anodize bath will dissolve non aluminum like the steel washer and the washer will fall out when the C-clip dissolves and the washer 'shrinks'. Buy a new set of washer and C-clip from AGD store for like $2.50 and install when anodize is done and cured.

The other way is a set of good dental picks and a few hours of patience and luck and prying the C-clip out of its groove holding the washer tight.

The washer is just there to prevent the bolt from impacting the nice SFL/CnC body and affecting the softer aluminum.

[Phantom_Mag]

Its rather easy to take out a put in, just need some patients. Use one dental pick to get it out, and to get it back it push one end of the c clip down with a small allen wrench and then slowly push the other end down with a dental pick.

[BigEvil]

I think TUnaman said that the Xmag body insert is pressed it and need to be heated to be removed.... I know the A+ anno can anno xmags. Talk to Tuna about this he will put you on the right path.

[Recon by Fire]

I believe the process consist of heating to 700 degrees F!

[bunny5]

MicroMiniMe: Thanks for the fast reply :D Are these the parts you were describing...Clip (http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=372&categoryID=16)
and..
Washer (http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=373&categoryID=16)


Phantom_Mag So when you took the washer off and put it back on everything still seemed to work? No leaks or anything like that?

BigEvil I tried to get in contact with Tunaman, but nothing works. I found an anodizing place that can create what my dream marker will look like thats about $100 cheaper then A+

I am talking about an SFL body if that helps any. I'm going to wait a couple more days before I try and take out the washer/clip. Maybe Tuna might make his way in the thread and set the record straight.

Thanks for your help guys!

[A-Tach-One]

There is no C clip in an XMag I believe, so I would think it is the same in the SFL. On the XMag there is a set screw on the bottom of the body that presses into the body bushing. but how it comes out from there only the AGD techs seem to know and of course A+. I would reconcider useing A+ again since they have the experience with these babies, but that's me. I only wish I knew about them before I sent my Euro XMAg body in for anno. Luckly Roman at AGD could replace my body bushing. :cheers:
Oh and the body washer in the Cnc and SFL is there to hold the spring and bolt back from flying into the breech like mine. :(

[MicroMiniMe]

MicroMiniMe: Thanks for the fast reply :D Are these the parts you were describing...Clip (http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=372&categoryID=16)
and..
Washer (http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=373&categoryID=16)


Phantom_Mag So when you took the washer off and put it back on everything still seemed to work? No leaks or anything like that?

BigEvil I tried to get in contact with Tunaman, but nothing works. I found an anodizing place that can create what my dream marker will look like thats about $100 cheaper then A+

I am talking about an SFL body if that helps any. I'm going to wait a couple more days before I try and take out the washer/clip. Maybe Tuna might make his way in the thread and set the record straight.

Thanks for your help guys!

Yes, those are the pieces.
The washer and clip don't 'seal' anything as far as I know, just protect the soft wear aluminum from a severe beating by the bolt and spring.
So you can pry out the clip and washer, or just replace after ano. Just make sure your anodizer is expecting a ring to come loose and to pry it out if it doesn't come out on its own before it gets the dye dip.

[Phantom_Mag]

Sorry, didnt read close enough, I was thinking ULE. Appologies.

[bunny5]

So the SFL washer can come out without any damage? Even if it went through a ano bath? I'm swinging towards replacing it once I get the new anodizing.

I'm going to anodize it at Absolutefinish, its cheaper than A+ for about $100. Even though the anodizing job still costs $275 :eek:

[Troen]

whats it ganna look like?

[MicroMiniMe]

So the SFL washer can come out without any damage? Even if it went through a ano bath? I'm swinging towards replacing it once I get the new anodizing.



Well if it goes as has been posted in the past, the washer/clip will be corroded by the electrically charged acid bath that 'grows' the thin layer of porous aluminum. I believe titanium rods are used to suspend parts/racks in the bath. As titanium isn't effected by the acid bath. But steel is.
So washer falls out or is easier to remove after bath. SFL body is just like new.

Word of advice if going for all out anodize. The power tube tip on X-valves is a pita to get off the aluminum valve and regulator halves. Boil the stripped down valve in a pan of water about 15 minutes and then get the oven mitt and plyers/clamps and its much more doable.