still not satisfied.

[skife]

bought one of these bodies from doc a few years back and have been slowly putting a cocker together peice by peice, i borrowed a grinder and bought a buffing wheel and some buffing compound last night, woke up this morning and decided it was time for some bling
http://img379.imageshack.us/img379/6594/00000279wt.jpg
i'm still not satisfied though, it still has a bunch of scratches in it and some milling marks, but its looking alot better than it did when i got it.

[nevets11_2003]

If you have any anno spots left you should check this out, http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1345632&highlight=drano

[slade]

that looks pretty nice!

heh, i can see your hand and camera in the reflection ;) thats fairly shiny

although usually if you try buffing something too soon, it will come out shiny, but with marks still visible. i would suggest taking a very high grit sandpaper/emery cloth to it, or maybe another type of wheel (i forgot the name...) thats an intermediate between sanding and polishing. after that go back and buff it again.

personally id probably take it to my schools jewlery class, but you dont really have that option. they have a ton of useful equipment, thats where i made the sterling silver grips i had on my freestyle... before i sold it :(

*edit* oh, and youll probably want to do something to the surface, whether its put a polish on it, or ano it.

[skife]

If you have any anno spots left you should check this out, http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1345632&highlight=drano


body came raw... but thanks anyways.

if i buff it long enough, the marks will come out.

[AGDlover]

ok the drano thing... you leave that on a body for too long it will start eatting at the alum. Just put a big pollishing wheel on a table grider... you'll get it just work with it

[slade]

if i buff it long enough, the marks will come out.
true, but that way takes a lot longer.

[luke]

I hate to say it, but the only thing to do is to start over.

I would (re)-start with 220 grit sand paper and continue until all the deepest grooves are removed. You will know when you are finished with the 220 grit sand paper when the deepest groove in the body is only as deep as the 220 grit scratches.

Then move to 400 grit. Sand until the deepest groves are no deeper than the 400 grit scratches.

Next is 600 grit, continue with the same technique as the 220 and 400 grit instructions.

THEN move on to the buffing wheel. If you use the correct buffing compound, you should be able to smooth out the 600 grit starches pretty quick.

[skife]

I hate to say it, but the only thing to do is to start over.

I would (re)-start with 220 grit sand paper and continue until all the deepest grooves are removed. You will know when you are finished with the 220 grit sand paper when the deepest groove in the body is only as deep as the 220 grit scratches.

Then move to 400 grit. Sand until the deepest groves are no deeper than the 400 grit scratches.

Next is 600 grit, continue with the same technique as the 220 and 400 grit instructions.

THEN move on to the buffing wheel. If you use the correct buffing compound, you should be able to smooth out the 600 grit starches pretty quick.

i figured it was going to come down to that.
maybe i'll pick some sandpaper up from the hardware store tomorrow.

[ThePixelGuru]

Any way to protect that aside from a clear ano?