What is the best SpyderMag design - Flipped Noid - Mod Sears - Luke customs

[PnueMagger]

I want to build an eframe really bad and want to know the best overall design. These are imprtant charataristics:

1) Speed at least 14-15 max bps
2) Ease of setup
3) Longevity/Toughness

To me the sear method seems like one of the sears would inevitably wear down and quit functioning.
But I hear of Decent Speed with this method.

The Flipped noid seems very easy and basic. Pretty much fullproof. Also, I measured the mag sear and the noid would have the most leverage on the sear giving it effieciency, but possibly hurting speed. I worry about the noid having enough travel to actuate the mag though.

and then there is Luke's customs design. Like a flipped noid with a different actuation point. Actually has about 1/16" less leverage. The only real advantage is the frame screws that are nice and not chopped up in the back to fit the rail. But seems more sound then the sear mod.

I need reviews so I can choose a method

[StygShore]

I should have all my stuff in a few days that I am sending off to Luke for his work, I'll put up a full review when I get everything back.

ESP frame, Sweet Spot Trigger, 50g switch, T-Board, Bouncebeam Eye (maybe), and Dye stickies


Styg

[Arstron]

I finally got my ultra chip working properly, so I will put a video up this weekend maybe. The reverse solenoid mod is going to be a lot like a hyperframe/devilmag, this is the reason I like the reverse solenoid the best. The hyperframes have already proven that method to work well. I had my emag valve in my dragun mag the other day with the ROF set to 18 bps and turned the full auto mode on (F/A with an ultra chip shoots at the RoF you have it set at), it shot great. I cant say for sure it was a full 18 bps, becuse it wasnt taped, but it was very fast. My dragun-Mag has been very reliable when I am not tinkering with it, especialy since I have the tboard setup correctly now. I think you will be happy with whatever way you choose to do it.

[StygShore]

What problems were you having with the Ultra Chip? I was thinkign about picking one up for my setup down the line just to screw around and show off at the field with the different firing modes.


Styg


Do you think the LUKE mod will shoot slower than a standard flipped noid mod?

[Arstron]

What problems were you having with the Ultra Chip? I was thinkign about picking one up for my setup down the line just to screw around and show off at the field with the different firing modes.


Styg


Do you think the LUKE mod will shoot slower than a standard flipped noid mod?

I am not sure of the exact problems, I had been talking with damon at scenario dreams, he said he found a glitch in the code either way the new ultra chip he sent me worked great. I have to assume that it is a glitch with using such high dwell. I am like you, I only got the ultra chip to show off with on camera mainly though. As for lukes mod, I could not say for sure. I am sure if there was a diffrence in speed it wouldnt be enough to recognize anyway, I have no dought that his can reach 15 bps as well. :D

[PnueMagger]

I have planned my next project...It will be a Micro-Dragun-Mag. Flipped noid and T-board with a classic valve. Only I will remove the AIR regulator, then run the required psi straight to the valve via a vert regulator. No more venting out the back when I wanna shoot 400+ FPS. :p If vert regulators can feed the MQ Cocker and Super fast 30+ BPS cockers, they should be able to feed a mag with an unlimited ROF t-board. I think I saw someone do that once.

Poor little soleniod :cry: . I'm going to find out what one of those little suckers can really do before they fry. :mad: Then I'll put a new permanent one in there.

Does anyone have suggestion on fairly inexpensive super Hi-flow regulators.
Also does anyone know where I can get a sort of screw on cap to replace the AIR regulator. I contacted Doc's Machine customs...But have yet to get a response.

[luke]

I'm not sure if you could get any "gun smith" to make that piece for you because of liability issues...

[PnueMagger]

liability? If it fits the threads, It will stay on. Doc can machine anything.

[luke]

I didn't say it could not be done. ;)

[PnueMagger]

You have machines, could you do it? please? :bounce: you could even markt them on your site. I'll be a beta tester.

[luke]

I'm not sure if you could get any "gun smith" to make that piece for you because of liability issues...


Sorry, I'm one of those guys...

[PnueMagger]

I really don't understand the risk of the proceedure. Unless it is a horrible fit and it shoots a mix of steel and liquid CO2 back in your face @ 600 psi. You could mig/Tig weld a Stainless cap into the back? I though about JB welding or hi strenght epoxying something like this, but I dont really know the pressures on the welds.

[Automaggot68]

You might try contacting Colin (NiCad) Of Deadlywind, He was the first I've seen to do what you're talking about.

[PnueMagger]

You might try contacting Colin (NiCad) Of Deadlywind, He was the first I've seen to do what you're talking about.

He has no contact info and his PM box said it was full.

[Automaggot68]

He has no contact info and his PM box said it was full.


Have you ever thought to try www.deadlywind.com?
He keeps his inbox full so geniuses like you don't spam him.

[Dirge]

For now, just gut an (your) AIR valve back and use it as an expansion chamber. I want to try this myself, but have not gotten around to it yet. Good luck.

[11 Bravo]

For now, just gut an (your) AIR valve back and use it as an expansion chamber. I want to try this myself, but have not gotten around to it yet. Good luck.


This is probably a better way to go. If your using a vert reg you will have the same pressure and a larger air volume.

[Arstron]

Just currious, whats the best way to seal the valve after you gut the regulator?

[PnueMagger]

Just currious, whats the best way to seal the valve after you gut the regulator?

I'm not gutting the reg...I am removing it for a smaller micromag. Look in the "Hypermags Pics post" You will see NiCads. You cap off the Valve back. I would like to get a cap with the 1/8" NPT on the back built by someone who can machine one. I emailed Doc's Machine Shop for a Quote but he must not check emails or get a ton of 'em. And I spoke with NiCad on the phone about all the concepts involved and he gave me the contact info for the person who helped him make his cap. I have yet to get a hold of him for the specs.

I guess i could machine my own, but I don't have time (actually patience) to figure out the thread specs and I especially despise tfreading on a lathe. Just so tedious.

Nicad told me that this method does decrease shootdown but only by a couple more BPS. The main restrictor after the reg is gone is the way the on/off recarges in conjuction with The sear movement.

[Shane-O-Mac]

Arstron:

Just remove the seat, the pin and the pin spring. No need to do anything else. You do have to leave the reg piston in and the adjuster in to hold it in. Or you can remove the piston and loctite/teflon the adjuster to seal the piston chamber.

Shane-O

[Automaggot68]

I emailed Doc's Machine Shop for a Quote but he must not check emails or get a ton of 'em. The more you post, the more I am convinced you know nothing.

[PnueMagger]

I know that you can gut the reg and get the same functional effect.I'm looking for a more aestetic (sp?) modification. I want to make the valve assembly more compact, so I would like to remove the AIR portion and cap it off.

Maggot: WTF is that supossed to mean, and how does it relate to the quote? Go take some Midol.

[Arstron]

Arstron:

Just remove the seat, the pin and the pin spring. No need to do anything else. You do have to leave the reg piston in and the adjuster in to hold it in. Or you can remove the piston and loctite/teflon the adjuster to seal the piston chamber.

Shane-O

Thanks shane, with only the reg piston still in the reg, the preasure relief will not function anymore right? :D

[bleachit]

Maggot: WTF is that supossed to mean, and how does it relate to the quote? Go take some Midol.


it means Doc is notorious for having a bajillion emails, projects and forums to work on... he often takes a while to respond to emails.. that info is right on his webpage. He will eventually get back to you, maybe, but it will take a lil bit.

[PnueMagger]

IIRC the reg piston still has the built in pressure relief. So if you output high enough with your aftermarket vert reg or tank, it should still vent.

Sorry about the doc thing I guess. I wasn't sure if his company was just him alone or an actual small company with secretaries/machinists/etc. I'm going to try and make a custom reg cap this weekend and see if it works (safely). You can bet your arse that I'm going to test it with a remote line standing back a few feet and hiding. Kids: Don't try this @ home :nono:

[Machiavelli_Seraphim]

I have made the back caps for my mag valve. theyre standard thread. ive got taps for them. lemme go look it up real quicka nd ill get you exact thread.
7/8" NF 14 (pretty sure on the NF 14") been a while since i made mine.

[mobsterboy]

it means Doc is notorious for having a bajillion emails, projects and forums to work on... he often takes a while to respond to emails.. that info is right on his webpage. He will eventually get back to you, maybe, but it will take a lil bit.

no, Doc gets a billion emails a day. about 80% of them are just random nonpaying questions. He has to guage the ones that actually get him money, reply to them, then work on random project questions

and Pneumagger, derek(maggot) prob lost all respect for you when you posted your barbie pink pneumag. Granted, its a pneumag, but you might wanna think about the color before you choose based on what nail color the girl you stalk is wearing