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iamhrh
02-04-2006, 10:11 AM
It's been awhile, but I'm back and posting in the ao forums!
Anyway, I've been out of the game for awhile because of various school, work, and familial reasons, so before I go stupid I wanted to run a gun build by everyone and see if there would be any comments or suggesions.

With no further ado, the plans:

Black X-Valve
Body Rail (I'd like to know what my options are on this one, I'm trying to keep gun fairly light...and black :ninja: )
Black ULE Warp Right Body (Warp is so Q-Loader hose doesn't extend above gun's top)
Intelliframe (Open to suggesions, I don't plan on having any electronic parts, so am I wasting $$ on this?)
All Black 12" Evil Pipe Kit (experience / reviews would be nice, all I've found is good stuff so far)
HPA Tank - REALLY need help here, ie, idea presures, good suggesions, better to mount on gun or use remote...?
Q-Loader - Planning on mounting on the front under the barrel

There are also a few configuration type quesions I'm trying to figure out:
1. How to run the gas hoses? Best to use a gas-through grip with a drop forward? Or gas thru with a remote? I'm guessing the gun will be pretty front-heavy with the q-loader...
2. Most of my shooting comes in 3-10 ball bursts, fairly close and personal, so snap shooting / shooting on the move is key to the way I play. Anybody see any weaknesses in this gear for those purposes?
3. The X-Valve: Reactive trigger = just like response trigger on tippman?

Well, that's all I can think of right now. Blast away!

Edit: Revised plans

Buy a Tac-One (Can I get one of these with the reverse X-Valve...the one that has the gas in on the left?)
Swap the body out for a warp right ULE (grinding as necessary)
Get the Evil Pipe kit - thinking the 12"
Pick up a fixed HPA tank
Get the q-loader, mount it to front grip under the barrel
Swap trigger for a ULE

bleachit
02-04-2006, 10:18 AM
first off..

xvalve is not like the tippy response trigger, in that reactivity in the xvalve is NOT what Tom Kaye was going for, however you can get it to act similarly if you up your input pressure from your tank high enough.


the input pressure for an Xvalve is usually suggested to be around 800psi but can vary a bit.

you may consider looking into the ULT, ultra light trigger, its an on/off replacement that lowers to force required to pull the trigger significantly.

iamhrh
02-04-2006, 10:45 AM
first off..

xvalve is not like the tippy response trigger, in that reactivity in the xvalve is NOT what Tom Kaye was going for, however you can get it to act similarly if you up your input pressure from your tank high enough.


the input pressure for an Xvalve is usually suggested to be around 800psi but can vary a bit.

you may consider looking into the ULT, ultra light trigger, its an on/off replacement that lowers to force required to pull the trigger significantly.


gotcha. are there any low pressure options?

bleachit
02-04-2006, 11:00 AM
I think you can get it down to around 600psi.. but any lower and you start losing recharge rate, I think... some will say that anything under 800 psi is too low..

low pressure.. no, not for a mag.

Beemer
02-04-2006, 11:18 AM
No options on the pressure. As far as a tank goes I would get an adjustable one but you dont have to.

The intelli is a top quality frame. Put a warp on it and wire it and it works great.

The barrel argument is still on going.

As for the rail and body you will need to get ANY rail cut to fit the warp body.

See Roguefactor or Tunaman in the dealers forum.

Peace Out

_____________

http://home.comcast.net/~beemerone/AoIL.gif

iamhrh
02-04-2006, 11:20 AM
I think you can get it down to around 600psi.. but any lower and you start losing recharge rate, I think... some will say that anything under 800 psi is too low..

low pressure.. no, not for a mag.

heh, well it was worth a shot. I suppose with HPA you don't need LP anyway, LP setups really help co2 systems out in the winter.

More I keep reading about this tac-one, more i like. seems like a good way to get the xvalve, intelliframe at a good deal. anyone know if there is a good way to get the tac to work with a qloader?

FinchMan
02-04-2006, 04:27 PM
here's something to look at:

http://www.specialopspaintball.com/shop/product_detail.asp?SKU=100+0010&SEARCH=LONGBOW

but i definately say don't get it!


http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=189708&page=1&pp=30

there's a few of our versions of what it should look like. except mostly with classic valves & CO2.


If you don't want a stock, i'd say keep the bottle on. If you're gonna use a stock, go remote.

iamhrh
02-06-2006, 09:17 AM
here's something to look at:

http://www.specialopspaintball.com/shop/product_detail.asp?SKU=100+0010&SEARCH=LONGBOW

but i definately say don't get it!


http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=189708&page=1&pp=30

there's a few of our versions of what it should look like. except mostly with classic valves & CO2.


If you don't want a stock, i'd say keep the bottle on. If you're gonna use a stock, go remote.

Yeah, I'm not sure about the stock...why do people like / dislike them? Seems like it would get in the way fairly often.

iamhrh
02-06-2006, 07:17 PM
Buy a Tac-One (Can I get one of these with the reverse X-Valve...the one that has the gas in on the left?)
Swap the body out for a warp right ULE (grinding as necessary)
Get the Evil Pipe kit - thinking the 12"
Pick up a fixed HPA tank
Get the q-loader, mount it to front grip under the barrel
Swap trigger for a ULE


:shooting:

Beemer
02-07-2006, 01:28 AM
so before I go stupid I wanted to run a gun build by everyone and see if there would be any comments or suggesions


(grinding as necessary)

You can grind it if you want but you have to take off more then you think. The body to rail fit has to be perfect. The front grip screw goes in to the body right where the slot is on the rail for the warp body to fit. There for if the slot on the rail isnt perfect, when you tighten the front frame screw you will torque[twist,bend] the ule body. If you look at the warp body you will see that it has a square around the feed. The rail side of that square should sit just right on the rail. I had an old classic rail I did the grind and file thing to. I can still use the rail for other bodies but it aint perfect for the warp body. I got a rail from Rogue and he notched it at NC and it fits perfect. DIRTFT[DoItRightTheFirstTime] Like you said dont go stupid. :spit_take :cheers:

See Rogue or Tuna in Dealers for all your custom mag needs. :hail:

You dont need a kit.[IMHO] Use the cash for an adjustable. :ninja:

Get the level 10 tuned up take it out for a drive and add the ULT later if ya want, because you can short stroke the ULT a lot easier.[kiss] :headbang:

Peace Out