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View Full Version : Another case of the Full-Auto.....



Skoad
02-26-2006, 11:19 PM
Played fine one weekend, next weekend played fine 2 games and all of a sudden mag's shooting full auto.

Checked sear and swapped out with another, both show no signs of wear. ULT was shimmed/deshimmed. Stock on/off was tried. Even exchanged level 10 springs and shims. Still does full auto.

Only thing I can think of is something inside valve/regulator must have gone bad. Anyone know if its one particular seal or part that could be causing it? Hoping I don't have to purchase an entire parts kit and get the one oring to fix it.


Let me know if you have any ideas! :confused: :confused:

Mr. Low
02-27-2006, 12:19 AM
Played fine one weekend, next weekend played fine 2 games and all of a sudden mag's shooting full auto.

Checked sear and swapped out with another, both show no signs of wear. ULT was shimmed/deshimmed. Stock on/off was tried. Even exchanged level 10 springs and shims. Still does full auto.

Only thing I can think of is something inside valve/regulator must have gone bad. Anyone know if its one particular seal or part that could be causing it? Hoping I don't have to purchase an entire parts kit and get the one oring to fix it.


Let me know if you have any ideas! :confused: :confused:

dont they usely go full auto when velocity is to high and the on/off doesnt hav time to "reset its self"?

just a thoght

Skoad
02-27-2006, 12:25 AM
velocity is fine. I played 2 games ~270ish then set it down, filled some pods, and whammo full auto.

I'm really not entirely sure what can cause this, maybe wore out reg spring? Need a grease bath?

Mr. Low
02-27-2006, 12:40 AM
velocity is fine. I played 2 games ~270ish then set it down, filled some pods, and whammo full auto.

I'm really not entirely sure what can cause this, maybe wore out reg spring? Need a grease bath?

my bad, i didnt mean velocity. wat i ment to say was imput presure

tae
02-27-2006, 12:42 AM
Did you check the bolt for wear? Im betting ya did but it wasnt on the list.

Was the only thing I could think of.

Skoad
02-27-2006, 10:20 AM
yea, bolt looks fine.

shades
02-27-2006, 02:13 PM
I concure lower the Input pressure that is if you a have an adjustable tank.

Skoad
02-27-2006, 04:14 PM
nope, preset.

bit-wizard
02-27-2006, 04:48 PM
It's possible that the trigger rod may have screwed in or out some. You might want to check it to make sure that it is set to the right length -- Just shy of touching the trigger. If it turns ou that it did move on you, you might want to use some blue threadlocker to prevent it from screwing or unscrewing again after you set it. Hope this helps.

bit-wizard :ninja:

Cow hunter
02-27-2006, 05:04 PM
if you have an on/off thing on the bottomline.... it may be in too tight. on my micro, if its screwed in all the way(pushing the tank pin way far in) the gun ceases to function

Skoad
02-27-2006, 06:59 PM
Sear pin looks fine. Hasn't moved, and neither has the one on my backup sear ;) Do have an on/off, not screwing it on as much did not fix it...fiddled with this for a while.

tae
03-01-2006, 07:21 PM
Will it go full auto on gas up or just when the trigger is pulled?

Skoad
03-01-2006, 07:32 PM
Only when trigger is pulled. Gas up just sits idle. Its impossible to do just one shot, fire about 3 times with a single pull - and holding down the trigger it just goes full auto.

athomas
03-01-2006, 07:40 PM
Is the valve properly secured in the body? Check the rail bushing to see if it is in place and not lost.

A functioning valve will not go full auto. This is because the on-off shuts off the air supply to the front chamber before the sear releases the bolt.

There are things that can alter this:

1) An on-off pin that is too short (damaged or worn) will allow the sear to release the bolt before the chamber is sealed. The result is that the bolt will return only to be refired by the recharging air before the sear can latch it.

2) A bad oring in the on-off top area will provide the same effect as (1).

3) A worn bolt can slip past the sear if the edges are rounded. This usually happens if the on-off and sear latch timing is close.

4) A worn sear can also allow the bolt to slip off and be fired for the same reasons as (3)

5) A missing rail bushing can cause the valve to sit in the body in the wrong location. This can cause all sorts of firing problems.

6) A field strip screw that is too long can induce the same effects as an on-off pin that is too short.

tae
03-01-2006, 07:43 PM
Could very well be the reg. Have you checked it for dirt and wear? You said that it was good for a bit, then went bonkers, right? What was done to it before those games?

Edit: Doh! Theres your good answer.