Mag won't fire

[Blurry]

Having a problem with my x valved mag. The mag is a z gripped uled railed vertical feed stainless mag. I recently acquired the xvalve used from a trade here on AO. The marker will not fire. I have replaced the entire on/off assembly and all seals in the marker.

What happens is when the tank is screwed on the marker gasses up fine no leaks. Trigger is pushed forward by the on off pin pressing on the sear. The length of the sear/trigger rod is correct. Now when i pull the trigger of the marker to fire it, the trigger pulls back fine and nothing happens. No venting from the barrel, and no forward bolt movement. Basically i have air to the on off because the trigger returns back to firing position everytime but no matter how many times you pull it the marker will not fire. Any suggestions. I have have a mag since 1995 or so. I am not new to them and i have done the usual tricks. Lots of lube new seals, the whole shabang. Went through all the different spacers in the level 10. Even with the largest spacer the marker will not fire or vent out the barrel. So i am starting to believe that something in the valve is stopping air at the on off and the on off is not allowing the air to flow through to the bolt and let it fire.

I have also tried a new sear in the marker just to make sure it was not a sear wear issue.

Anyone with any suggestions please respond.

Thanks

[shades]

Had the same problem with a RT. The Tech AT AGD tried different pin lengths without a avail. They finally ground a custom pin and adjusted the sear rod. Works Awsome now.
The combo of zgrip an X valve (eight years apart) will require some tuning.
BTW it is not recomended that YOU fool around with your sear rod adjustment. Conact Agd before doing so.
I know thats is not much help but may be someone else can chime in with a better idea. :tard:

[Blurry]

Had the same problem with a RT. The Tech AT AGD tried different pin lengths without a avail. They finally ground a custom pin and adjusted the sear rod. Works Awsome now.
The combo of zgrip an X valve (eight years apart) will require some tuning.
BTW it is not recomended that YOU fool around with your sear rod adjustment. Conact Agd before doing so.
I know thats is not much help but may be someone else can chime in with a better idea. :tard:


As long as you keep your sear rod adjustment in tolerance your fine so you think it may be an on off pin.

[FinchMan]

...ya prolly tried cranking up the velocity then... :tard:

um... if all else fails, send it to tunaman. :D

[Blurry]

...ya prolly tried cranking up the velocity then... :tard:

um... if all else fails, send it to tunaman. :D


Yea im trying to avoid sending it out like that plaque because i wanna play so bad. Been waiting on parts and stuff from the guy i traded from and it was just a joke of a trade. Sends me what he said was a fully working and tested xvalve. I get it its missing parts and i asked him about it and he goes well yea i swapped some parts out before i sent it to you but i forgot to test it.

[Cow hunter]

try making the sear rod arm longer, pushing the on/off in farther.....

[Blurry]

try making the sear rod arm longer, pushing the on/off in farther.....


tried that too im thinking that the on off pin is too long and since i have two of them im gonna try shortening it down .005 at a time and see what happens.

[athomas]

Make sure there is a tiny gap between the back of the trigger and the front of the trigger rod when the trigger is fully forward with the marker gassed up. If this is already the case, then it sounds like the on-off pin is too long.

You can check the sear operation by removing the valve. Pull the trigger to move the sear (hold some pressure on the sear by manually pushing down on the on-off part of the sear). Check to see if it clears the edge of the bolt. If it does, then you know the problem lies in the on-off section of the gun.

[MidnightRider]

Hey Blurry...

I just had the same problem. I turned the on/off pin around and my problem was fixed.:rolleyes:

The only thing is, is that I had to put the grooved end in first. That is just the opposite of what the exploded valve detail shows, that you can find over at the AGD online store.


http://store.airgun.com/images/product/large/lg_127.jpg


Maybe you can try that before you start shaving off material.

Peace

MR.


OOps. My bad. You said X-valve. :p

[athomas]

I just had the same problem. I turned the on/off pin around and my problem was fixed.:rolleyes:

The only thing is, is that I had to put the grooved end in first. That is just the opposite of what the exploded valve detail shows, that you can find over at the AGD online store.


If you put hte grooved end in first to get it to work, thenyou have other problems with your setup. You should find the problems rather than settle for a work-around. The temp fix will leave you stranded in a game someday.

[MidnightRider]

If you put hte grooved end in first to get it to work, thenyou have other problems with your setup. You should find the problems rather than settle for a work-around. The temp fix will leave you stranded in a game someday.

I totally agree with you, but I have replaced all the O rings and this is the only thing that worked. I only happened to do this by accident.

If you have any other suggestions as to where to look for the problem, I am all ears. Otherwise I am stuck.

Thanks

MR

[athomas]

For both guys, make sure there isn't an extra oring on the on-off top. That will cause your problems.

[Blurry]

took off proximately .010 off of the pin now the marker will let me shoot but i ran into a problem when my tank started to go dry is that the marker would leak down the barrel but if the trigger was pulled and held the leak stopped i believe that is a level 10 kind of an issue.

[athomas]

The leak is most likely caused by too many shims in the powertube.

[Blurry]

no shims in it

[rb211]

Drop down a carrier size.

[Blurry]

thanks for all the tips

[athomas]

Have you shecked to see that the rail bushing is in place?